kurt appley Posted January 24, 2010 Report Share Posted January 24, 2010 I picked up a good A15(supposedly) from a 310 front drive. I'm going to use it in a rear drive and could use a rear drive oil pan if anyone has one. Has to have the dimples for rod clearance that A15 engines need. Also could use a early front crank pulley and a points distributor if anyone has them lying around. Thanks, Kurt. Link to comment
jefe de jefes Posted January 24, 2010 Report Share Posted January 24, 2010 Do the A series engines have gear driven distributors? If so I may have a few matchbox type.... Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 24, 2010 Report Share Posted January 24, 2010 Pointless to get a points dizzy. If it has the EI matchbox dizzy keep it or find another. With it you install and never have to touch it again. Well except for cap and rotor replacement or setting timing. Link to comment
Skib Posted January 24, 2010 Report Share Posted January 24, 2010 moved to "Datsun Parts Wanted" Link to comment
kurt appley Posted January 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2010 [ Thanks for the input but engine came without dizzy and I don't have the rest of the electronics for the "match box" nor the knowledge. I do know points and condenser and though they may require a little maintenance I know they won't leave me stranded. Willing to learn though. I think this engine probably had the advance and retard mechanism (vacuum) as well and that is going to be eliminated. How about the other stuff? Thanks again, Kurt. Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 24, 2010 Report Share Posted January 24, 2010 The matchbox comes with the distributor and is easier to wire up, and easier to install than the points distributor. It is 100 times more reliable and has never left anyone stranded like has happened to some with the points distributor. Plus the have better advance curves. The are no Cons to the matchbox, there are only Pros. Either way when buying a distributor check for these two things: * Advance plate bearing are not broken. Use a vacuum pump to see if it moves smoothly and look for ball bearings lying down inside. Pass on it if you see them * Vacuum advance diaphragm holds vacuum. 90% of used distributors perhaps have this, at they are $35-$100 to replace depending on the year. * Additional thing to check for points distributor: Check for play in the shaft, you should feel zero side-to-side play. I've never seen a an electronic one that had any, but points distributors sometimes get this because of the cam I suppose. Also the shaft can appears move if the plate bearings are bad as the plate that holds the points is floating on the bearings. Link to comment
kurt appley Posted January 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2010 Thanks ggzilla for the info. By matchbox I suppose you mean the dizzy with the square molded box on the side. I have one off a A14 but it is rusted up and froze with no vacuum movement. It has a hose to both sides of the diaphram and I suppose it was designed to both advance and retard for smog purpose's. Anyway I'm lost on this and the books I have don't cover it well. I'm going to get rid of all smog stuff on the engine and change carb's as well. Thanks, anyone with a pan and pulley? Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 25, 2010 Report Share Posted January 25, 2010 Yes, the block box type is the matchbox. The vacuum cans with two hoses are great -- just leave the one on the backside disconnected. Link to comment
kurt appley Posted January 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2010 Thanks again ggzilla, I studied up more on the matchbox. Looks like the way to go. For some reason I was thinking it required a separate ignition module or ECU hook up but does not. Only thing I am a litle concerned about is the coil. This engine is going in a MG midget with no provision in the switch for ballast resistor which I suppose this is designed for. Probably not a problem but coil requirements for non ballast system is different. I'm going to try to salvage the one I've got. Thanks again, Kurt. Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 26, 2010 Report Share Posted January 26, 2010 This engine is going in a MG midget with no provision in the switch for ballast resistor which I suppose this is designed for.ah, the MG sounds just right for a matchbox distributor. It does not require a ballast. Just get a $2 coil from any 1980s vehicle (the kind without a ballast). You can't do that with a points distributor. Link to comment
kurt appley Posted January 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2010 Thanks again ggzilla. I've got my matchbox freed up and unless I discover problems at fire up I think it will work. Now, anyone have a pan and a pulley? Thanks all Kurt. Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 27, 2010 Report Share Posted January 27, 2010 You can use the pulley from an A14 or A12A. Most are single pulley unless the have A/C. Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 2, 2010 Report Share Posted February 2, 2010 It seems no one here has the parts you need. Why not go to the wrecking yard and get one? The pull-n-picks here usually have some B310 and all last summer fall there was an A15 one there, somebody took the cylinder head. Link to comment
datsa73 Posted May 11, 2010 Report Share Posted May 11, 2010 I may have what you need. email me. I live in Seattle. Link to comment
kurt appley Posted July 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2010 Thanks for the replies on this and sorry for not checking here for so long. I have modified a pulley and am going to cut and weld up the pan I need. The one I was looking for would have had to be modified anyway to clear a cross member. Thanks for the help, Kurt. Link to comment
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