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Power Drain? How do I locate source?


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Hey guys, okay I am just about ready to start ripping up some roads, I got the drive shaft in, the slave cylinder installed, and some other minor things, but ran into a few roadblocks thought maybe I could get some help. First of I think I got all the wiring figured out, I am running a 81 200sx harness for a NapZ motor and was having some issues with not getting a spark, it used to have 2 coils now I am running the Blaster 2 so I had to play with the circuit tester to find the hots just to find out that a resistor was bad damn thing...luckily Charles had an extra harness and we were able to get it changed out quickly. So after we got all that going we tried to turn the thing over and while playing with the distributor it sounded like it was going to start but then we ran out of juice and couldnt get any turns only clicking... we swapped out the battery from charles 510 first turn sounded good then same issue. We know his battery is good because it fired his car right up when we put it back in. We had my battery on the charger and it seemed to be holding a charge but when we put it back in we get 2-3 cranks and then nothing... Any ideas on what might be draining power? I have only hooked up the gauges nothing else electrical has been added yet so I am at a lost would love to hear some ideals!!!



Also can anyone give me a rough course in adjusting the Air/Fuel mix via the MAF on this thing I know it has something to do with the the little gear and the tension spring but thats about it.... Thanks I look forward to the answers and I will post some new pics soon!

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Resistor??????? if running a Blaster 2 and a Newer nissan elelctronic ignition you dont need the stock ballast resisitor!!!!!!!!!!!!! bYpass it.. At least for the coil.


put your test light in series with the battery.. meaning remove the neg terminal from the battery. Now put the pointey end of the test light on the neg battery post then the other end(usually a alligator clip end) on the battery cable that was on the battery. now if the Test light lights up. with Key OFF you got a drain.


then start removing or disconnecting stuff. sometimes I would disconnected the alternator to make sure the dioades are not shorted in there.


I also assume you dont have a external volt reg anymore since you used a newer harness and its has a internal volt reg alternator.



Im winging this one but maybe a starter has a high resistant short?



maybe you just got bad battery cables. bUY NEW ONES!!!!!!!!!

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Maybe clean the ground cable where it bolts to the head behind the fuel pump. Then clean and tighten the positive cable where it mounts to the starter terminal. Bad connections won't allow battery power through. Also make or check that there is a good ground wire going to the body sheet metal.


As for adjusting the flap gate MAF, I had the site but it looks like it closed. Sealick on here did a clean and adjust on his set up. The wiper arm that varies the resistance wears a groove and makes bad contact. The adjustment moves the wiper arm to a new position with better contact. He also adjusted air fuel ratio for using on a larger Z24 motor.

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