jeremy_sr510 Posted November 6, 2009 Report Share Posted November 6, 2009 (edited) new too the forum I found some good info here for the sr20det swap. So I thought I should join and start a thread for my project. I'm 19 years old and its been a father/son project since we bought it. bought the car from Montana as a scca car with an l16 then traded the motor for LZ24, dual 45dcoes and custom made header and so on.... LZ24 is now in need of a rebuild. but kinda convinced dad to go sr.... some pics of the car... my bmw beside it instead of selling it did a motor swap last year... what i did the other night.... made a brace to keep it from moving when cut out... all welded up... then the next night in the garage.... also bump steer spacers cam in the mail. The actual motor that's on the way... be here end of next week! that's all for now..... also will be getting a walbro inline 255, will the stock fuel pressure regulator work, or do i need an aftermarket one? alao does the stock turbo/manifold fit or does it have to be a top mount? Edited November 7, 2009 by jeremy_sr510 Quote Link to comment
sssr20det510 Posted November 6, 2009 Report Share Posted November 6, 2009 need a top mount stock wont clear steering box Quote Link to comment
ichorid Posted November 6, 2009 Report Share Posted November 6, 2009 Or you can go r/p. But bottom mounts suck any way get an equal length tubularanifold. Quote Link to comment
jeremy_sr510 Posted November 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2009 need a top mount stock wont clear steering box ya that's what i thought just wanted to be sure. any suggestions? looking for something cheap.... ebay is what i was thinking Quote Link to comment
ichorid Posted November 6, 2009 Report Share Posted November 6, 2009 if you got ebay for your manifold. you're going to end up buying twice because it will fail, and you'll buy a real non knock off manifold. You already got the Sr, the most expensive of common engine swaps. Why cheap out on the things that will make it perform up to its name? Quote Link to comment
sssr20det510 Posted November 6, 2009 Report Share Posted November 6, 2009 http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=11403&highlight=turbo Quote Link to comment
jeremy_sr510 Posted November 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2009 http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=11403&highlight=turbo if i bought that manifold... would the stock turbo bolt to it? then ill just make a down pipe/screamer pipe off that.... Quote Link to comment
fo0manchu Posted November 8, 2009 Report Share Posted November 8, 2009 (edited) I like knock offs. :D You obviously have access to a welder, so if your budget minded, just get an ebay one and weld some supports on it. I would check some sr20 forums for reviews on certain ebay ones to see which ones are decent. Check the original weld beads to see if they look good. If not, just run another bead over it. The most complaints i seen are that the some of the welds just crack from the heat combined with vibration and weight of the turbo. Even some of the fancy ones will fail from this. A flex pipe can also aid in the life of the manifold so it doesn't crack. The one that sssr20det510 is offering looks like money. Everything is already there and made for the 510 Edited November 8, 2009 by fo0manchu Quote Link to comment
jeremy_sr510 Posted November 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2009 ya think i might give this a try..... 280$shipped... Top Mount Turbo Manifold for Datsun 510 with SR20DET Engine Swap T25/T28 Quote Link to comment
S@nt0s Posted November 8, 2009 Report Share Posted November 8, 2009 off to a good start, that manifold will crack even with bracing and rewelding. the issue with those manifolds are they are thin walled so in time you will buy another... for the about the price your paying for that one i can make you a top mount log manifold out of 304 SS.... check out the one i made on my 1200 if your interested... keep up the good work! Quote Link to comment
jeremy_sr510 Posted November 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2009 (edited) off to a good start, that manifold will crack even with bracing and rewelding. the issue with those manifolds are they are thin walled so in time you will buy another... for the about the price your paying for that one i can make you a top mount log manifold out of 304 SS.... check out the one i made on my 1200 if your interested... keep up the good work! that one i posted pics of is 304 stainless...has a couple braces on it....but its still ebay stuff i know. but how do we know that manifold is not the thicker ss? it could be... by the way your manifold looks sick....got me thinking. Edited November 8, 2009 by jeremy_sr510 Quote Link to comment
fisch Posted November 8, 2009 Report Share Posted November 8, 2009 Just wanted to say I LOVE the look of this dime. Quote Link to comment
jeremy_sr510 Posted November 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2009 Just wanted to say I LOVE the look of this dime. thanks By the way its never getting painted! Quote Link to comment
sssr20det510 Posted November 8, 2009 Report Share Posted November 8, 2009 if i bought that manifold... would the stock turbo bolt to it? then ill just make a down pipe/screamer pipe off that.... I think its the same pattern i dont have a stock turbo to test fit i have a z31 turbo that bolts up Quote Link to comment
JDM510 Posted November 8, 2009 Report Share Posted November 8, 2009 your going to need to flip the center link for the steering also cuz it will hit the bottom of the SR i had mac at mckinney do mine but looks like you weld so should not be a problem for you Quote Link to comment
jeremy_sr510 Posted November 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2009 your going to need to flip the center link for the steering also cuz it will hit the bottom of the SR i had mac at mckinney do mine but looks like you weld so should not be a problem for you i was searching about that... if the motor mounts are made right. also read something about using 620 mounts with 1/2inch spacer it will only just hardly touch the bell housing, at full turn. if that's true then it will do the trick for us.... and wont have to mod it... also its cast so i don't have the stuff for welding it... see what happens next week when i try and stuff it in there. Quote Link to comment
JDM510 Posted November 8, 2009 Report Share Posted November 8, 2009 (edited) yeah but then your going to run into having your motor in their at the wrong angle and or start to hit the firewall with the bellhousing, it might look like theirs alot of room but once you get that motor in their its a pretty snug fit. with the stock mounts the motor sits pretty much perfect if not a lil nose high already. if your trying to stay away from flipping it (cuz your lazy and or cheap) you can always grind out the bottom of the sr where it hits, that was the option mac gave me but i opted to flip it everything clears perfect like it was from the factory i was really happy with it, anything that will touch the motor will cause a nasty vibration and make the car feel like shit i also seen people heat and bent it str8 but i think thats the stupidest thing i ever seen done, weakens the centerlink alot Edited November 8, 2009 by JDM510 Quote Link to comment
S@nt0s Posted November 8, 2009 Report Share Posted November 8, 2009 that one i posted pics of is 304 stainless...has a couple braces on it....but its still ebay stuff i know. but how do we know that manifold is not the thicker ss? it could be... by the way your manifold looks sick....got me thinking. its still thin wall tubing which is why it will break along with weak welds. i personally will warrenty anything i make... take your time do it once and do it right. I think its the same pattern i dont have a stock turbo to test fit i have a z31 turbo that bolts up if i remember correctly the turbo you speak of is a t28 3t flanged with is different. if he is using the OEM t25/28 turbo it needs to be t2 flanged. Quote Link to comment
jeremy_sr510 Posted November 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2009 yeah but then your going to run into having your motor in their at the wrong angle and or start to hit the firewall with the bellhousing, it might look like theirs alot of room but once you get that motor in their its a pretty snug fit. with the stock mounts the motor sits pretty much perfect if not a lil nose high already. if your trying to stay away from flipping it (cuz your lazy and or cheap) you can always grind out the bottom of the sr where it hits, that was the option mac gave me but i opted to flip it everything clears perfect like it was from the factory i was really happy with it, anything that will touch the motor will cause a nasty vibration and make the car feel like shit i also seen people heat and bent it str8 but i think thats the stupidest thing i ever seen done, weakens the centerlink alot I do not have the gear to weld cast steel i can try but i would not trust it at all. also wouldn't bend it...... Quote Link to comment
jeremy_sr510 Posted November 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2009 what about fuel lines i have a 5/16th line ran i was thinking about using it as my return then run a 3/8th feed.... seems like some people do that some run 5/16th back and forth. but later in the future when it starters getting more boost different turbo and stuff... i would like to have the 3/8th's now if i need it then. Quote Link to comment
JDM510 Posted November 8, 2009 Report Share Posted November 8, 2009 I do not have the gear to weld cast steel i can try but i would not trust it at all. also wouldn't bend it...... then i would grind out the bottom of the motor where it hits Quote Link to comment
jeremy_sr510 Posted November 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2009 its still thin wall tubing which is why it will break along with weak welds.i personally will warrenty anything i make... take your time do it once and do it right. if i remember correctly the turbo you speak of is a t28 3t flanged with is different. if he is using the OEM t25/28 turbo it needs to be t2 flanged. I'm thinking i want to do it right the first time... but don't want to spend $ on a bigger turbo/wastgate yet, maybe next year or something ill change it.... but also don't want to have to buy another manifold in a year or so too. so should i get something for a t3 then an adapter to use my stock t25 for now? or make a manifold for the t25 then time comes to upgrade cut the flange off and weld on a t3? I'm stumped now.... or use a cheap ebay one for a year if it holds up then upgrade turbo/manifold/wastegate all at once.... Thanks for all the help Guys! ill need it Quote Link to comment
S@nt0s Posted November 9, 2009 Report Share Posted November 9, 2009 ya we can change out the flange later but i have to ask what is your end goal with the car power wise? because you can stay with a T2 flange ( t25/28) and make 350-400 with a GT2871... only reason to go bigger is for big power so it depends on your end goal. me personally if mine was a street car i would run a gt2871 or even a S15 turbo which would be killer in a light car like ours.... Quote Link to comment
jeremy_sr510 Posted November 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2009 ya we can change out the flange later but i have to ask what is your end goal with the car power wise?because you can stay with a T2 flange ( t25/28) and make 350-400 with a GT2871... only reason to go bigger is for big power so it depends on your end goal. me personally if mine was a street car i would run a gt2871 or even a S15 turbo which would be killer in a light car like ours.... thinking ill buy or make one with t2 flange when time comes for more power or turbo needs to be replaced. Then get something like a gt2871 or something with a t2 flange. the goal is make the car reliable and drivable so dad can drive, on the street, and too the track some auto-x lapping days. thanks for the great help... also if i buy one or make one should it have a external WG. then for now just use a block off plate then its there for when the time comes? Quote Link to comment
S@nt0s Posted November 9, 2009 Report Share Posted November 9, 2009 well for the autocross days ill leave it with the small turbo. if you want external we can do that but if you get a S15 turbo or a 2871 on 15psi you will be at 300ish whp but we can do it however you like... Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.