datzenmike Posted November 24, 2009 Report Share Posted November 24, 2009 (edited) I can here a hissing noise coming from the intake/exhaust manifold area. Is there a way for the exhaust to get into the cooling system from there and cause an excess pressure? Thanks Kevin Depending on the motor you have, some Ls have coolant passages from the head into the under side of each intake runner. The coolant holes meet at the base of the carb and exit up and out a small pipe at the front and through a hose and metal line past the thermostat. If the cooling system is over pressurized the air could be leaking out between the head and intake, or maybe a hose clamp is loose at the front. A badly warped head could leak compression into the cooling system. If warped enough it could also allow oil to leak in there too. Edited November 24, 2009 by datzenmike Quote Link to comment
atkinson40 Posted November 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2009 Depending on the motor you have, some Ls have coolant passages from the head into the under side of each intake runner. The coolant holes meet at the base of the carb and exit up and out a small pipe at the front and through a hose and metal line past the thermostat. If the cooling system is over pressurized the air could be leaking out between the head and intake, or maybe a hose clamp is loose at the front. A badly warped head could leak compression into the cooling system. If warped enough it could also allow oil to leak in there too. Thanks Mike, I remember needing to put some form-a-gasket on the exhaust/intake manifold gasket to stop it from leaking water down the block. Once I get the timing correct, I'll look there for trouble. -K PS: Is the head/block interface the only place pressure could get from the engine to cooling system? Also if I was getting pressure from the block to the cooling system couldn't I leave the cap off the radiator and see bubbles? -K Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted November 24, 2009 Report Share Posted November 24, 2009 (edited) I dont think a loose intake will cause a over pressureizing of the coolant system. It might suck the water into #2 ,3 cylinders then get hot after the water runs low. If you lived closer I have a L16 thats good ,in pieces but needs a rebuilt. was a oil burner. no leaks. tried to give it away nobody wants it. 1)if coolant over pressurizes then head gasket or more likely a crack somewhere. 2)If water in oil once warms up, I still think ck the front cover. send photo of front cover with water pump removed. Edited November 24, 2009 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
atkinson40 Posted November 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2009 I dont think a loose intake will cause a over pressureizing of the coolant system. It might suck the water into #2 ,3 cylinders then get hot after the water runs low. If you lived closer I have a L16 thats good ,in pieces but needs a rebuilt. was a oil burner. no leaks. tried to give it away nobody wants it. 1)if coolant over pressurizes then head gasket or more likely a crack somewhere. 2)If water in oil once warms up, I still think ck the front cover. send photo of front cover with water pump removed. Thanks banzai510(hainz). I got it timed correctly and ran it with the rad cap off for about 20 minutes. After it warmed up(it did not overheat according to the gauge), the thermostat opened up and I could see the water flowing in the radiator through the filler hole. I put enough water in it so that I could see any bubbles that might be escaping. I did not see any bubbles. I also didn't hear any hissing around the intake/exhaust manifold. I'm going to continue to run it a little each day and see if I get H2O in the oil again. I'm hoping to determine if the pressure problem and the H2O in the oil problem are related. -K Quote Link to comment
petep99 Posted November 25, 2009 Report Share Posted November 25, 2009 Many years ago I helped an old friend change head gaskets on an old Ford pickup with a 390. He was at wits end after spending weeks changing the gaskets 3 times, having the heads surfaced, buying top quality racing gaskets etc and STILL finding gas in the oil, and oil in the gas. :mad: We did it one last time together being extra slow, careful and methodical. When we finished he started it up and ran it for a few minutes, then went and checked the vitals. @#$%!! he screamed. "Oil in the @#$%$#@ water, and water in the @#$%@#@%$%#@ oil again!!" He was about to roll it off a nearby cliff when I asked; "You DID change the oil and clean out the radiator, didn't you?" Stare... blink blink. :lol: Quote Link to comment
atkinson40 Posted November 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2009 "You DID change the oil and clean out the radiator, didn't you?" Had to change the oil pan gasket after over tightening the bolts. So had to change the oil. I don't see oil in the water, but do see rust so will buy some flush and flush it out. -K Quote Link to comment
atkinson40 Posted November 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2009 Spent a couple of days just starting the engine and letting it run with the rad cap off for 20-30 minutes. It didn't over heat and I didn't see any water in the oil. Today I flushed the engine/radiator and then ran it with the cap on. It didn't spew water out the cap and I didn't hear a hissing sound around the intake/exhaust manifold. The temp gauge only got up to a little less than half way after about 20 minutes of operation. I'm hoping the spewing from the radiator cap was caused by some air being trapped in the engine getting released when the thermostat opened. I'm going to continue to start and run it to temp daily and see if I get a repeat performance of H2O in the oil. If not, I'm on to brakes/clutch. -K Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 29, 2009 Report Share Posted November 29, 2009 When you get a chance and the motor is cold, check the head bolt torque one last time. Warm it up and check the valve lash too. Then forget about it for a while. Quote Link to comment
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