"72 620 Return From The Dead

[atkinson40]

Decided to collect the major threads here to show the saga of returning this pony to life. Here she sat after I bought her for $200 and had her towed to my driveway.

 

 

History was she'd been a daily driver until blowing a HG and sitting for awhile. Here's the thread where I did HG and Rings.

 

http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=13901

 

Afterwards she wouldn't idle so I did a carb overhaul and tuneup in this thread.

 

http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=14449

 

Next on the known list is:

 

1. Rad Cap

2. Figure Out Why Clutch Pedal Is Frozen

3. Figure Out Why Oil Pan Gasket Is Leaking.

4. Rebuild Brakes

5. Replace Fuse Box

6. Windshield Wipers

7. Some Carpeting - Sound/Heat Proofing The Floor

8. Cover The Black Leather Seats With Some Cloth Ones(Mexico)

 

Someone swapped the original 1600 for an 1800 and left the original headers, carb ect. I rebuilt the original Hatachi carb.

 

She has a bit of rust around the lower rear part of the doors that I'm not sure how to fix. Might be a Mexico job. Once she runs I'm taking her on weekly journeys to Tecate. Here's the US side climb into the mountains where Tecate is located.

 

Edited August 29, 2009 by atkinson40

[Loz]

Lovin' that!

 

The wheel and tyre combo make me very glad I decided to raise my 620 this weekend.

 

It will be the muttz Nutz when I get some tall wide rubber on there. but now it drives like a DREAM!

 

Good luck with the runs out.

[datzenmike]

Check the master cylinder is filled with brake fluid and loosen the slave bleeder screw. If the pedal now moves then the slave is seized. If it still does not move then the master is seized.

[atkinson40]

Check the master cylinder is filled with brake fluid and loosen the slave bleeder screw. If the pedal now moves then the slave is seized. If it still does not move then the master is seized.

 

Will do this week. Today was our weekly Tecate trip and I'm not too popular letting the pool turn green in this over 100 degree weather:eek: so I'll have to work on that this week, but should get some quality time with the 620.:) I put a new radiator cap on and the temp guage doesn't climb over half ever. The cap that was on there was incorrect and too large. The rubber gasket on the bottom was too big and was jamming up in the hole. Course I haven't driven it anywhere, but have let it idle for 15-20 minutes. Still have a long way to go before I can drive it out of the driveway. -Kevin

 

PS: Found a creeper for $7 at the swap meet so I can now tickle her tummy.

[atkinson40]

Found a fuse box off a 510 at the junk yard. Its not a direct swap, but it'll give me a base to hold the fuses and I'll remark the cover to reflect the differences for what the fuses now control on the 620. I'll solder the wires and tape or wire nut once I find my soldering iron. They're temp twisted now to check all the circuits.

 

 

Every once in awhile the clutch pedal unfreezes and I was able to move the shifter through the gears. I couldn't find reverse??:confused: Am I correct in thinking it is to the far right and down? The worn spot shown below would indicate its been shifted to there.

 

[datzenmike]

 

Aaah the 'monkey motion' shifter. They are notorious for being very sloppy when worn. The extra slop allows the shifter to hit the sheet metal.

[atkinson40]

1. Soldered the fusebox wires and mounted the fusebox.

2. Cleaned up the rats nest under the dash a bit

3. Put blades on the windshield wipers and tested the wipers(Thank GOD I live in a desert and won't need them much. That WW moter sounded mighty tired):eek:

4. Took the steering wheel off to see why it was soo loose and see if I could also tighten up the plastic housing for the direction contol/key switch.

 

 

Looks like I'll only need to tighten up the nut on the steering wheel for it to be OK. The shaft itself has a tiny amount of play, but not scary. The plastic housing will need some epoxy. Anybody know of a good one?

 

I've noticed the fuel bowl on the carb is emptying overnight and needs to be filled by the gas pump every morning when I start the engine. I don't think this is normal, but can't think what might stop it from doing so either. The jets are going to be open all the time, whats to stop the gas from leaking out?? Anybody know? -K

[Pacific coast Datsun]

Hey when you get it road ready bring your 620 to tthe Thursday evening meets in Mission valley. For the housing JB weld may work.

[atkinson40]

Went to the JY today and snagged and installed shoulder harnesses. Repaired the plastic housing on the steering columm and reinstalled the steering wheel. Tommorrow I'll look at repairing the OEM horn and get wifey to press the clutch while I loosen the slave bleed to isolate the frozen clutch problem per Mike above.

[atkinson40]

Fixed the horn button in traditional Ratsun style by drilling out the broken standoffs and sustituting screws.

 

 

Moved on to the frozen clutch with less results. Opened the slave while someone pushed the clutch and the pedal went down. Per Mike above, the slave was frozen. Removed, cleaned, honed, and reinstalled it. After bleeding the line I realized the clutch was not returning the plunger. There's a big gap between the end of the plunger and the actuator arm.

 

 

I can only see two reasons for this. Either the throw out bearing is stuck on the shaft, or the clutch fingers are so worn they aren't returning the clutch disk to be engaged. Any ideas anyone?? Am I missing something? Thanks Kevin

 

PS: If its the clutch, I'm going to move on to the brakes while I locate a tranny jack. I don't imagine myself heaving that mutha up in place without one.:lol:

[datzenmike]

I think it's self adjusting. The rod on the end of the slave can only be pushed back by the pressure plate as it's released. There won't be any space there. The weight of the fluid in the line above the slave will keep the rod out and just touching the clutch operating arm.

[atkinson40]

The rod on the end of the slave can only be pushed back by the pressure plate as it's released.

 

I think this is not happening. My pressure plate seems dead. Part of the cylinder freezing problem was that the rod had over extended from not having the return pressure of the pressure plate.:( In the picture I believe the position shown for the rod is the relaxed position and the pressure plate should be returning to meet it.

 

Any heads up on R&R the clutch besides getting a tranny jack?:blink:

Edited September 4, 2009 by atkinson40

[drxfter]

Yeah, but its all on your back if you haven't a hoist. An ordinary trolley jack will do to support the box,'but a scissor jack and maybe two guys with decent muscles can do it too. helps if the car is on stands, off the ground a bit. being on concrete is a definite advantage. Awkward, yes ; impossible no.