baremetal spec paintjobs, sorta

[72240z]

Have you considered using brake fluid? Idk why I forgot about that option.

It's one hell of a penetrating oil. It always works for me breaking boose nuts and bolts.

 

A body guy played a trick on me pouring some on a fender I had to paint, I had to buy a new fender because no matter what I did it wouldn't rise out of the metal.

 

That's a cheap option you could try.

[Gary]

could do, worth a test :D

[yellowdatsun]

POR-15 also makes a true 2 part clear epoxy paint. I sanded down a metal school door, sprayed it with that, and it's been on the front of my house for a few years now with no issues. The coating is really tough.

[Gary]

glisten or something its called ya?

 

thanks for the experience :) got a pic of the door? might have to get my hands on some of that action also, should be easier to get too

[Gary]

alrighty, its been a while, already i can see the results of permalac

 

permalac has failed, did worse than straight clear! i followed the directions on the can, and tested it on a couple other things also, each of these are rusting underneath

clear has failed, as i knew it would but good to have it up there anywho

 

here's the clear;

spots of rust first started after about a month, then more appeared, the spots developed from barely visible to as they are now, and are getting bigger so far as i can tell

 

aand here's the permalac;

more rust spots than straight clear, a few big ones and many small ones. i daresay the small ones will develop into larger ones soon

 

sorry about pics, hard to capture what i want you to see... SO theres permalac out i guess. next up is POR15 glisten, i can get my hands on some in aus rather than import some so i bought some today from some handsome chaps in sydney. should get it next week sometime, i'll apply and see how that one goes

 

gibbs is the only other thing i want to try. sorta use it as a basecoat (as directed, sprayed on then excess rubbed off) hopefully taking advantage of its claimed hectic rust abilities, then straight clear over the top. the only problem with gibbs though is getting some to australia... they only sell it in aerosols which of course you cant sent via air. theres a shop in USA that are happy to help, provided i organise sea freight. i gotta suss a broker for that etc so ill leave it till i see if POR15 stuff works i think

[Gary]

ive found a new idea that i previously was unaware of

 

id heard of rust converters but never knew what they were about (other than stopping rust). i think the gist of it is the converter will react with any existing nasty cancer spec rust (oxide) and turn it into nice fluffy non lethal black lookin stuff (in the case of ferrous material, iron phosphate i think)

 

the whole deal is a coating rather than a preparation (paint would be a coating say, and degreaser a preparation), so your average converter will have other cool stuff in it so that it becomes practically a metal primer. a typically clear, metal primer. ready for top coat.

 

god knows how noones mentioned this previously, maybe its all a jip and doesnt work? :D nonetheless im gunna hit my local paint place and gessome hectic rust converter for some more tests. hopefully ill do 3 test panels on that bootlid sometime this week. see how it all goes

[LTJ]

Old thread I know, but this may be of interest to someone:

 

I went down to Melbourne over the weekend to pick up a motor and the guy had a 200B (810) in bare metal, I asked him how long it had been bare and he says 8 months...

 

I have to say, it looked like it had just been sanded, so I asked the secret and he said he cleared it and then after is was cured rubbed it down with 'Penetrol'. Seems like a good option!

 

Looking at the spec sheet:

 

http://www.floodaustralia.net/products/paint_additives/penetrol.php

 

It would appear that you can use Penetrol as a primer anyway, and it dries clear... I might have to do some experimenting!