sdsurf Posted July 28, 2009 Report Share Posted July 28, 2009 Anyone out there in the San Gabriel valley or all of southern Ca for that matter that would like to help me out with my brakes? I am having some trouble and another set of hands (and knowledge) would be great. Thanks email me miker@roel.com Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted July 28, 2009 Report Share Posted July 28, 2009 F or R? stock? aftermarket? ZX swap? XXXX??? to far away to lend a hand... whats the problem? Quote Link to comment
sdsurf Posted July 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2009 F or R?stock? aftermarket? ZX swap? XXXX??? to far away to lend a hand... whats the problem? stock, front and rear. Bled my self and still no pedal. opened up each individually to see if fluid was coming through. after some pumping and flushing fluid came through. Can't figure it out... Then again I was using the self bleeding method of opening bleeder, pump and hold with stick, close bleeder and release stick. Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted July 28, 2009 Report Share Posted July 28, 2009 1 man bleeding is a PITA, even with a vacuum bleeder! :cursing: w/the MC full - cap loose, open the RR bleeder(just a little) and then push the pedal all the down, release very slowly! you should be able to go back and see it dribbling out. use a small hose into a bottle/jar to reduce the chance of air going back into the line. :thumbup: if so, then close the bleeder. repeat at each bleeder. any that doesnt dribble out may be where air is trapped. DONT let the MC go dry!!! or youll be back at step 0.1 it may take some time & fluid to get all the trapped air out :mellow: i recently did mine this way and its been good :D Quote Link to comment
sdsurf Posted July 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2009 release the pedal with the bleeder still open? I was keeping the pedal down with a stick while I went around to close the bleeder. 1 man bleeding is a PITA, even with a vacuum bleeder! :cursing: w/the MC full - cap loose, open the RR bleeder(just a little) and then push the pedal all the down, release very slowly! you should be able to go back and see it dribbling out. use a small hose into a bottle/jar to reduce the chance of air going back into the line. :thumbup: if so, then close the bleeder. repeat at each bleeder. any that doesnt dribble out may be where air is trapped. DONT let the MC go dry!!! or youll be back at step 0.1 it may take some time & fluid to get all the trapped air out :mellow: i recently did mine this way and its been good :D Quote Link to comment
72240z Posted July 29, 2009 Report Share Posted July 29, 2009 I really don't like any method of bleeding brakes alone without at least some basic tool. This thing is like 4 bucks at your local store and works flawlessly. Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted July 29, 2009 Report Share Posted July 29, 2009 Seriously buy a foot of rubber hose and an empty water bottle and some zipties and it does the same shi as that 4 dollar one. Quote Link to comment
72240z Posted July 29, 2009 Report Share Posted July 29, 2009 Well the magnet is a nice thing to have on it, the end of that hose fits perfectly onto the bleed screw and the hose in the bottle is held nice and low so its always under fluid and air can't back up. I know this is ratsun but jesus christ, if people are too cheap for a 4 dollar tool idk what to say. :lol: Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted July 29, 2009 Report Share Posted July 29, 2009 I bought it and I was disappointing. It overflowed on me and made a fucn mess. One empty 1 litter plastic bottle is good enough for all the brakes. Then with a marker I place the name of the car and what type of Brake fluid I used. That Piece of shi bottle is worthless! Once it was full it fell off it stupid magnet and fuct my paint... Quote Link to comment
72240z Posted July 29, 2009 Report Share Posted July 29, 2009 (edited) I'm not trying to argue with you over it, dif strokes for dif folks. Had I had such a bad experience with it I'd prob say the same. That said though.... Why the hell would you put a magnet on your paint? I'll agree 100% the bottle is a bit small but why would someone keep pumping till it over flowed? Takes 30 sec to empty it. Is it perfect? No. What it is, is a 4 dollar tool that allows you to IF USED CORRECTLY bleed clutch/brakes alone. Can one be made? Sure, my time is worth way more then 4 bucks, I much rather spend the time getting the job done then ghetto engineering something to save 4 measly bucks. I have used it soooo many times, ya I have to empty the bottle sometimes, but its prob one of the best 4 dollar tools I've ever bought. My point though tool aside was to use SOMETHING when your going to bleed alone, it just makes life easier. I'm sure we can agree on that lol. :D Edited July 29, 2009 by 72240z Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted July 29, 2009 Report Share Posted July 29, 2009 True, but remember I don't make much money. :) I'm all Ratsun! Quote Link to comment
72240z Posted July 29, 2009 Report Share Posted July 29, 2009 I hear that lol, my build should illustrate how poor I am. I mean if it works for ya power to you, surely any concoction is better then trying to do it alone with nothing. If I had money I wouldn't be dicking around with that tool either, I'd have something nice :-). Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted July 29, 2009 Report Share Posted July 29, 2009 Tell me this is not cool! http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm Quote Link to comment
sdsurf Posted July 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2009 Tell me this is not cool! http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm I think I will try this :) BTW how can you tell when a wheel cylinder goes bad? Just leaking or? Quote Link to comment
72240z Posted July 29, 2009 Report Share Posted July 29, 2009 Damn that's pretty slick lol. That one I may have to try :D. Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted July 29, 2009 Report Share Posted July 29, 2009 Mike is the brake master new or was it on there when you bought the truck? Reason i ask is because maybe the seals inside the master are bad maiking bleeding the brakes difficult. Im not a pro,just tryin to help:D Quote Link to comment
sdsurf Posted July 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2009 Mike is the brake master new or was it on there when you bought the truck? Reason i ask is because maybe the seals inside the master are bad maiking bleeding the brakes difficult. Im not a pro,just tryin to help:D was on it... trying not to replace everything... and trying to be ready for the bbq Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted July 29, 2009 Report Share Posted July 29, 2009 ^^^ ok how did the pedal feel when you 1st bought it? If it felt firm them it's not the master. Quote Link to comment
sdsurf Posted July 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2009 ^^^ ok how did the pedal feel when you 1st bought it? If it felt firm them it's not the master. mc was bone dry with no pedal... Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted July 29, 2009 Report Share Posted July 29, 2009 release the pedal with the bleeder still open? yes. & SLOW release of the pedal!!! with the tubing attached to the nipple it wont allow air back in. youll see the fluid flowing (SLOW, via gravity) out and you can close it then. if you started w/the MC dry than you should start at the closest (instead of the farthest) then bleed normally (from the farthest) you could have a clogged line or cylinder. removing the nipple completety may also assist in clearing (or blow air thorough...kinda late since its no longer dry) autozone rents a similiar vacuum bleeder and i didnt have much sucess w/it. that pressurizer is excellent. the 'helper' cap is the key! Quote Link to comment
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