comply Posted June 23, 2009 Report Share Posted June 23, 2009 I just installed a dogleg 5-speed into my 510, got the roadster pressure plate in there, as well as the other parts you guys have suggested. My issue is, when I press my clutch pedal more than half way down, it bogs the engine down and sometimes stalls if it's idling low enough. If I push it half way or so it isnt an issue. Also, there is no play in the clutch pedal before engaging, and it's really stiff. Any suggestions? I've done some searching and can only come up with either I need to re-bleed the clutch system to get it to self-adjust, or I messed up the install. Does anyone have any pictures of how the T/O bearing and such should be installed? The Haynes and Chilton manuals dont have any pictures worth a damn. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 23, 2009 Report Share Posted June 23, 2009 Are you using the adjustable 510 push rod and matching clutch arm that holds the release bearing or are you using the dogleg arm? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 24, 2009 Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 My issue is, when I press my clutch pedal more than half way down, it bogs the engine down and sometimes stalls if it's idling low enough. If I push it half way or so it isnt an issue. Im not getting this one as the clutch causes motor to stall if trans is in Neutral this is unrealated and should be a separate issue. If in hgear and does this then I think its a T/O bearing or sleeve wrong issue. be more specific in describing this , Is car in nuetral or in gear with clutch pushed. also the salve cyl will have a threaded shft and sometimes this needs to be adjust for full movement. Only way to adjust this is pull the cly out adjust the shaft lock it with the jam not then reinstall. then there is a bit of adjustability at the pedal. Then there a 5 speed trans ,most the fork arm is usaully the cup type where the rod from the slave cyl just fits in the cup.. open bleed screw the clutch fork should be fully FWD. Bleed system and try this again. But remember is this is a L20 if from ta truck these motors have 225mm clutches and flywheels. they will use the datsun 620 L20 T/O bearing and sleeve st up. all 510 came with a 200mm set up T/O bearing which use a different set up. But all L20 cars did use a 200mm set up same as the 510. Now you say you have a Roadster clutch so you will use the 510 T/O bearing and sleeve as Roadsters use a 200mm set up. So hopefully you put a Datsun 510 68-72 T/O bearing and sleeve on there. If yes then your OK. Unless you clipped the T/O bearing wrong on the trans out put. which I think is hard to do. try the other stuff first and see what happens. I have had wronf T/O bearing in the box and installed to find out clutch dont engage correctly. I dodnt ck the difference from the old and new one. I was young and in a rush and DID NOT ck it. my mistake Quote Link to comment
comply Posted June 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 (edited) My issue is, when I press my clutch pedal more than half way down, it bogs the engine down and sometimes stalls if it's idling low enough. If I push it half way or so it isnt an issue. Im not getting this one as the clutch causes motor to stall if trans is in Neutral this is unrealated and should be a separate issue. If in hgear and does this then I think its a T/O bearing or sleeve wrong issue. be more specific in describing this , Is car in nuetral or in gear with clutch pushed. also the salve cyl will have a threaded shft and sometimes this needs to be adjust for full movement. Only way to adjust this is pull the cly out adjust the shaft lock it with the jam not then reinstall. then there is a bit of adjustability at the pedal. Then there a 5 speed trans ,most the fork arm is usaully the cup type where the rod from the slave cyl just fits in the cup.. open bleed screw the clutch fork should be fully FWD. Bleed system and try this again. But remember is this is a L20 if from ta truck these motors have 225mm clutches and flywheels. they will use the datsun 620 L20 T/O bearing and sleeve st up. all 510 came with a 200mm set up T/O bearing which use a different set up. But all L20 cars did use a 200mm set up same as the 510. Now you say you have a Roadster clutch so you will use the 510 T/O bearing and sleeve as Roadsters use a 200mm set up. So hopefully you put a Datsun 510 68-72 T/O bearing and sleeve on there. If yes then your OK. Unless you clipped the T/O bearing wrong on the trans out put. which I think is hard to do. try the other stuff first and see what happens. I have had wronf T/O bearing in the box and installed to find out clutch dont engage correctly. I dodnt ck the difference from the old and new one. I was young and in a rush and DID NOT ck it. my mistake The Slave Cylinder isn't one with threads. It's the "self adjusting" one. I THIIIINK I used the wrong sleeve. I used the bearing sleeve that came on the transmission, not the one that was on my stock 4-speed. I don't have any of that stuff anymore. Do any of you have one I can buy? :confused: So I'm guessing the problem is that my T/O carrier isn't long enough to fully engage the clutch? I should specify it usually bogs down when I push the clutch in with the car in neutral. I don't remember if it does it in gears. Edited June 24, 2009 by comply Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 24, 2009 Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 yes use the the stock 4 speed T/O bearing and sleeve. YOU know what the trans came from ???? As it really depends what flywheel is on there. 225 200mm?????????? I cant remember that far back your build. the Z car T/O bearing and sleeves can be soemwhat confussing. But anwser the quetion first id this with the trans stick shift in gear that this dies or trans is in neutral as I ,Dont think if its in neutral it would do anything and cause motor to die. if this trans was from a 200sx 77-79 the T/O bearing and sleeve should work. if trans is from a Truck or Z car then there is a difference. Datzen mike had a photo line up of all the T/O bearings. Quote Link to comment
comply Posted June 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 yes use the the stock 4 speed T/O bearing and sleeve. YOU know what the trans came from ???? As it really depends what flywheel is on there. 225 200mm?????????? I cant remember that far back your build. the Z car T/O bearing and sleeves can be soemwhat confussing. But anwser the quetion first id this with the trans stick shift in gear that this dies or trans is in neutral as I ,Dont think if its in neutral it would do anything and cause motor to die. if this trans was from a 200sx 77-79 the T/O bearing and sleeve should work. if trans is from a Truck or Z car then there is a difference. Datzen mike had a photo line up of all the T/O bearings. I don't know what the trans came from. It came in a box of parts when I bought the car. I have the stock 510 flywheel, Roadster Pressure plate, basically the same parts you all told me to get to make it work. The sleeve I used was off the dogleg 5-speed. The car sits in neutral just fine unless you push the clutch in. If you put it in all the way the car bogs down and stalls. In gear it's the same. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 24, 2009 Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 Bogs in neutral????? I dont have a clue whats going on if its a dogleg trans(1st gear is down) I can only assume its the correct t/o bearing and sleeve. Quote Link to comment
comply Posted June 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 Bogs in neutral????? I dont have a clue whats going on if its a dogleg trans(1st gear is down) I can only assume its the correct t/o bearing and sleeve. Yeah. I can have it in neutral and push the clutch pedal in and it bogs down and tries to stall. So which sleeve should I be using again? The stock 4-speed one, or the one that came on the dogleg 5-speed? Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted June 24, 2009 Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 So which sleeve should I be using again? neither! if the PP wasnt on either of those! order a new sleeve/bearing for the roadster PP from rockauto, was ~$33. TIMKEN - DNA01577C Quote Link to comment
comply Posted June 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 neither! if the PP wasnt on either of those! order a new sleeve/bearing for the roadster PP from rockauto, was ~$33. TIMKEN - DNA01577C The bearing I got was for a roadster I believe. Rock Auto says that part is the bearing for a 510. Which would be the stock one I think. Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted June 24, 2009 Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 the sleeve length is where the issue is at. the bearings may be the same # the chart w/all the various lengths is posted here somewhere... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 24, 2009 Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 Do you have a clutch switch??? (looks like the break light switch on the brake peddle) Quote Link to comment
comply Posted June 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 Do you have a clutch switch??? (looks like the break light switch on the brake peddle) I'll have to check. I'm not sure. The car had some switch attached to the clutch pedal that has never been plugged into anything, so I might. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 24, 2009 Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 If not connected forget it. Some had a switch combined with a tranny and carb switchs for the retard points and emissions. Quote Link to comment
comply Posted June 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2009 Bleh. I'm lost now. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 26, 2009 Report Share Posted June 26, 2009 take photos of the parts before install then show us. otherwise were guessing. all I can say is something is binding up. Look like your going to have to drop the trans. take photos of everything when doing this from T/Obearing install layout ect...... maybe trans is Lockup, bad ect,,,,,,, Quote Link to comment
comply Posted July 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2009 Alright. The problem WAS the bearing carrier. The 510 one is about 1/2 inch shorter. But my new bearing and pressure plate are completely trashed. I need to find the part numbers for the bearing and roadster pressure plate. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 5, 2009 Report Share Posted July 5, 2009 I believe the PP # is 30210-20111 for '67-'68 SLR311 with U20 motor. Quote Link to comment
comply Posted July 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2009 I believe the PP # is 30210-20111 for '67-'68 SLR311 with U20 motor. I went to nissanparts.cc and reordered one. They had my old order saved still so that helped. You should see the Pressure plate and bearing. They're FUBAR'd Quote Link to comment
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