Jump to content

I need some advance...


hessianben

Recommended Posts

(pics soon- my girl has the camera!!!)

 

Soo0.....

 

I got around to installing a matchbox distributor and coil from a '79 L20 in my '71 521 L16...

 

(BTW, everyones' diagrams of the wiring were super helpful and simple- Thank You all!)

Everything hooked up just fine-

However, when I fire it up, and rotate the dizzy on the pedestal (crude timing by ear) to get the best running setup, I can't seem to get enough advance (? It runs better and better as I rotate it clockways) If I had a few more degrees to the right (clockways) it seems like it would run great, but as it is- all the way clockwise, it bogs just a little when I give throttle.

 

I initially clocked the dizzy with the matchbox and vac advance can toward the rad hose, but the hose blocked me from freely turning it as far as i needed...

 

...So, I clocked it toward the exhaust manifold, and wrapped the #1 exhaust runner with header wrap to keep from burning the matchbox. I got a little more rotation, but still just short of being where I need to be!:mad:

 

Is it possible to move all the plug wires 1 space over and rotate the diz the opposite direction?

 

What's the best answer to getting a few more degrees???

 

Thanks for any input!

Sincerely,

 

Tired and Stinky :poop::poop:

Link to comment
  • Replies 8
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Yes you could re-locate the wires. You may find you have to move the distributor back a tooth to get it just right. Hey, whatever it takes is what ever it takes.

 

You did loosen the bolt on the plate below the distributor to give you extra room to adjust, right?

Link to comment
Yes you could re-locate the wires. You may find you have to move the distributor back a tooth to get it just right. Hey, whatever it takes is what ever it takes.

 

You did loosen the bolt on the plate below the distributor to give you extra room to adjust, right?

 

I loosened both the 8mm and 10mm (above and below) bolts to get max movement...

 

When you say go back a tooth, do you mean, pulling the oil pump and re-clocking it? If so, which way? and, if I pull the pump, can I re-use the gasket? (I'm assuming I'll also have to drain the oil...)

Link to comment

Update..... pics!! :D

 

Old L16 coil and dual points distributor- booo!:P

 

DSC02376.jpg

 

New L20 coil and Matchbox dizzy...

 

DSC02371.jpg

 

DSC02368.jpg

 

DSC02370.jpg

 

DSC02374.jpg

 

DSC02375.jpg

 

I wrapped the radiator hose and 1# exhaust runner with header wrap to keep from frying things too fast...

 

Just drove it round the block, and it's definitely bogging.

 

I'm assuming I'll have to :

 

-drain the oil

-remove the oil pump

-re-clock oil pump 1 tooth (DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT "CLOCK-TIME" POSITION TO SET TO...) whoa- I didn't realize I was yelling!:D sorry

 

by clock position- I mean, normally the position of the dizzy/oil pump is

at 11:28? ish..?

What 'time' would it be for a little more advance? 12:00, or 10:00?

Link to comment

I said you may have to drop the pump as moving all the wires 1/4 way round the cap may place it too far forward. (or back) If you do need to drop the pump, set at TDC compression so you always know where you are so you can find your way back.

 

You don't need to drain the oil but expect some to drip out. Keep oil pump vertical so it stays full. You can re use the gasket if it isn't torn. (so get one just in case) Each tooth moves the distributor about 18 degrees so lots of adjustment possibilities.

 

Keep in mind that you can clock the distributor into ANY position you want. Actually any one of 20 possible positions in a circle. So if you want the matchbox to the front or the vacuum advance out of the way of the upper rad hose, now is the time.

 

To keep everyone on the same page, and to keep the factory setting the spindle is usually set in the 11:28 position but swapping in a different distributor may result in a distributor with the matchbox to the rear near the exhaust. Where ever you finally decide to run it, will be fine.

 

Here's the universal 11:28 setting for all L and Z spindles.

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/motorZseriesdistallignmentLarge.jpg[/img]"]motorZseriesdistallignmentLarge.jpg

Edited by datzenmike
Link to comment

In doing a search- it looks like a lot of people have had to move a tooth on the

dizzy-pump shaft when running an L20 diz.

 

Before I begin the unbolting, checking, rebolting, spilling oil, swearing...

 

does anyone remember if they moved clockwise or counterclockwise?

 

Thanks everyone!

Link to comment

DSC02371.jpg

 

You are trying to turn the dizzy clockwise, toward the hose??? and run out of room???

 

If so, move all the wires one position clockwise and try again. You may have to turn the dizzy counter clockwise to get in the 'range'. I didn't say you have to move the oil pump spindle... just that you could or might have to. Try moving the wires first.

Edited by datzenmike
Link to comment

I began to run out of room with the vac cannister facing top, and matchbox facing the radiator (was hitting the rad hose)

 

So, I flipped it 180- and got full range of adjustability there.

Still wasn't enough though, sounds retarded.

 

Gonna drop the oil pump in a few and try some things (suggestions welcomed!)

 

thanks

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.