Will

Success!

Finally had a free afternoon and some good weather, so I took care of valve adjustments, timing, and plug gaps to try and get the 710 running smoothly.

I drove from Syracuse to Ottawa and back to Brooklyn a few weeks ago, and the whole way it was idling very rough, but cruising just fine on the highway. I ended up getting 27mpg the first time I checked, and then 30mpg (with a carfull of stuff and a couch and shelf on the roof!)

The valve adjustment and plug gaps were pretty close to what they should be, but the timing was way off - it was retarded really really far - maybe 25°or 30°!

The illustrations that I could find of the timing marks on the crank pulley all showed what the six notches meant (+5°, 0°, -5°, -10°, -15°, -20°) but my pulley only has 5 notches, so I set it to the notch that was my best guess at -10°. The engine is from an L16 1972 510 SSS Coupe - does anyone know the proper timing setting, or what the five notches on the crank pulley stand for? I couldn't find this information in any of my manuals or online.

At least it no longer feels like the engine is trying to shake itself apart! I'm going to try and go on a road trip to Baltimore next weekend. I'm curious if it is as it appears in John Waters movies.

Any ratsuners in Alaska?

Free '74 Subaru coupe: http://fairbanks.craigslist.org/cto/3306711303.html

If you're thinking about rear suspension modifications, these photos from a racing 710 I saw on ebay might help:

That style only fits between the later 140J taillights - the ones that look like this:

http://www.ebay.com/...10c1c89&vxp=mtr

Problems with the neighbors? Fixed.

It all makes sense - the US suspension is taller than the 160J/140J suspension, so Datsun lowered the wheel arches for the 710 fenders so the car would look a little less gangly. Kinda like on the old AMC Eagle, where they added plastic fender flares to lower the wheel arches and make them look less like jacked-up Concords.

There is kind of a funny story behind the front wheel well's, before I put the front end on the car I had been lookind at it and was unhappy with the stance. I thought that the front need to be lowered some , I finely got around to ajusting the coil overs down a notceable amount and then realigned the frontend and was pretty happy with it after talking about it for almost a year. I did all this a week before my fenders showed up out of Japan.

 

I then installed my new fender's a couple of days later and to my disappointment the car does not look as low as it did days before , do to the slightly taller arches. Now dont get me wrong I really love the way the front end look's but it just made me laugh.

The wheel cutout is higher on the non-US fenders? Is it enough to make fitting aftermarket wheels easier?

Did you have to modify anything to get the panels to fit on your car? I'll be using the same panels and grille as you, but keeping my US bumpers - I'll probably need to modify the valence and raise the bumper up an inch or two to get everything to match up.

I am surprise no one has comented on the front end conversion.

I have a few old decals of this design - not sure where they came from. Was this a brand or something?

Ah! I see that they are on the truck for delivery in Fairfield, CA. I'm looking forward to seeing everything mocked up - since I'll be doing the same swap on my car other than keeping the stock bumpers.

I made some prop magazines at Sesame Street today, so if you're watching with the kids and spot a 710 on the cover of a magazine in Hooper's Store, here's why:

That whole car is going for less than what some are asking for the front panels.

The west coast has the sunshine.

http://sfbay.craigsl...3297091408.html

 

Now scrap the 710. Its time for a 610

At this point, it might be nice to step back and look at the progress since late June...

Congrats! It's looking great!

Is the rear tire lower-profile than the front, or is it a weird optical illusion?

That's okay - I'm here too!

Thanks.

Lol, the windsheild pics where ment for will, i must have got mixed up. Cool filler pics tho :cool:

I'd had an eye on them in the yards for a while, but your B210 seat swap post gave me the evidence that they would fit. Thanks!

The black vinyl will get super-hot in the sun, but hopefully these seats will get reupholstered before to long in white vinyl with fabric panels. (the driver's seat has a big rip that doesn't show in the photo.)

Looks good. I have these seats in the B210 also, really comfy but they do get a bit hot during the summer.

With a shift boot, it's no longer looking so unfinished:

And I finally added in the package tray from Pumpkin Dave - now I won't be getting weird reflections from the sheetmetal in the rear window!:

Junkyard Porsche 924 seats: the best 35 dollars I've spent on the 710. I needed to make some brackets for one side to attach them to the 710 rails, but the installation only took a few hours. Much easier than the removal! It seems like the sliding mechanism always rusts in place on the 924s in northeastern junkyards, making the seats very difficult to remove:

will you snap some pics of the trim bit thats below the trunk and between the tail lights?

im missing what ever that is on mine

The nylon fasteners were busted on my car, so the piece of trim was already off and ready for photos:

Thanks for the tips - I heard back from the seller & these new pistons are for a L20B. He said that he's going to try and track down L18 pistons, but I doubt that he'll be able to find any.

Look what I got today!

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I saw this one on ebay and then craigslist - good to know that it found a good home. It looks like there is room to store a spare tire inside the offset of those rims!

Time to get a few odds-and-ends sorted out before I get back on the road:

I added some adjustable links from a Mercedes, and bent the original 710 links so that it would operate smoothly.

Since the automatic transmission didn't need a shift boot, I needed to make a way to hook one up for a manual transmission. I made a frame out of clothes hanger wire.

And put in a new transmission mount to keep it from flopping around. The old mount was a mess.

How did you remove the stainless trim around the rear window? I'm having a tough time popping the trim off of my car.

Call it a sedan delivery or an aerobus or an opera coupe - as long as you add enough photos, everyone here will be able to figure out what you've got.

Once you've gotten a couple hundred posts under your belt the new-guy hazing should let up.

620 front-on-front?

240Z front-on-back?

The fit is pretty nice! The 200SX got the strongest hit by the 5mph bumper ugly stick, so its nice to see what is possible with a bumper swap.

Are you going to modify the bumpers at all to fill in the gaps?

I ordered a new set of oversize pistons for my L18, and the dish looked a little bit deeper that the pistons that are in the engine now - probably shipped me a set of the L20B pistons I figured - I wanted to do a quick calculation to find the volume of the dish using the depth of the dish and the radius measured to the center of the slope of the dished area.

Current pistons: dish is .8mm deep, 34mm radius - 2.99cc

New Pistons: dish is 1.7mm deep, 34mm radius - 6.35cc

It seems pretty unlikely that I've wound up with two sets of pistons with weird amounts of dish, so I was wondering if anyone knows why calculating the dish using the depth and radius can be so far off from the normal values for these pistons? (4.36cc for the L18 and 11.36 for the L20B)

Here are some pictures of the pistons that came in the mail:

...and the current pistons: