Will

Nice to see that the 710 has an engine back in place.

The old engine has been running nicely in my car - though it sure doesn't like to wake up on cold mornings!

I made an extra set if someone is interested.....

 

I'm interested!!

Nice work!

I thought that the manifold gasket was supposed to be used without sealant, but I'll give this a try next time. 

perma texed the manifold side, and love it no problems at all, also i used longer studs and added jam nuts to each one, so once its torqued down jam the the jam nuts and you should never have a problem

Third engine for this car - hopefully the third time is the charm!! (and loading the engine into the back of the van - much easier than into the passengers side door!) 

The last time I put an engine, I torqued down the intake and exhaust to the recommended setting and coolant was leaking, so I needed to tighten it a bit more - I was kinda glad to see that this head had no coolant ports. Are there any tricks to keep the manifold gasket from leaking?

Yup, at this time of year. The coolant in the intake also 'cools' it during the summer and carries off radiant heat absorbed from the hot exhaust. This provides a more constant average intake air temperature year round and the car will run more even. Been watching this post will. This the second motor you've 'driven' home? The first was in the front seat.

Yes it's normal, this is an L20B head and fit for 25% more air flow than an L16. You may want to drill out the coolant flow to the intake runners at a later date, will. You will need to join into the return line coming out of the thermostat housing.

 

The intake is likely from an L16/18 usually wanted because it does not have the EGR and is 'cleaner' looking. A'79 or '80 L20B intake has larger ports. It will still run great and give good flow at cruise highway speeds.

I looked closely at the two intakes I ended up with - they looked pretty much identical, and each has ports that are smaller than the ports on the head, except one of the intakes had ports that are about 1/8" larger than the other, so I went with that one. It runs nicely once it warms up (though I guess it would warm up faster if coolant flowed through the intake!)

I'm heading out to San Francisco for a week, and I was wondering if anyone has a recommendation of a yard that is likely to have some Datsuns for me to check out.

The L20B is all installed and running. I had trouble with the temperature gauge not moving, but I cleaned the contacts and it's working again. I have a small leak from the transmission that I need to check out, and the heater isn't working as well as I'd like, but it should last long enough for me to get back to New York City at least!

The new engine had a "Nissan O.H.C." valve cover, so I swapped it for the "Datsun" valve cover from the L18.

You are a brave soul. Looks like tough work, but it looks like you're putting a lot of care into the project.

Hey Ratsuners in Arkansas. Not a Datsun, but you know you want it anyway:

http://fayar.craigslist.org/cto/3468240304.html

I just noticed some more details in this photo:

My metal line is a bit more simple - no attached vacuum lines.

Thanks everyone! This is exactly the information I was looking for. Looks like the metal fuel line vanished before I bought the engine, but luckily I have a spare (from the old L18, I think)

Will your L20B should have a metal line from the stock pump to the Hitachi where it turns around and comes back to the pump. At that end there is a restriction with a small hole in it. A hose connects it to the return line to the tank. Without the restriction fuel would just take the easy way back to the tank and there would be no fuel pressure. You should be able to use this with a weber.

Thanks! Now I gotta track down that metal line - I'm sure its around here somewhere.

There is no fuel return on that carburetor. That's an untapped boss.

I see. thanks - any ideas on how I should route the unused fuel return line?

I'm trying to hook up a Weber DGV to my Datsun 710 with an L20B. The carb I'll be using has a manual choke, and the DGV that was on the car when I bought it has an electric choke. I can't seem to figure out where to hook up the fuel return line.

There are two fuel lines coming in to the engine compartment next to each other, one is 1/4" and the other is 3/16". I can't remember how the return line (the 3/16" line) was hooked up before - there doesn't seem to be anywhere for it to hook up.

Below are some images of the two carbs, and where I think everything goes. The carbs don't have a pipe where I think the return line fitting should be - can a bit of appropriately-sized pipe be pressed into place? Or is this not used on some DGVs?

Got the engine in and bolted up today... luckily, it looks like there will be clearance for the exhaust!

The intake ports look as big as on an SSS head - is that normal? The head is marked U67

The ports on the intake manifold aren't as large as the ports on the cylinder head:

I picked up an L20B from toadx8u on my way home for the holidays - I'd planned on picking up a different engine, but that one had been sitting for 10 or 20 years, and I was able to hear toad's engine before he pulled it this morning. The engine fit perfectly into the fold-away compartment in the back of the minivan!

I left home at 6:30am and finally got to Syracuse at 7:30pm. 600 miles of driving in one day. Tomorrow, I'll be dropping the engine into my car. ...The engine in my car now could be fixed, but I don't have much time for tinkering lately!!

wasn't it converted to rhd!?

 

Nah, that's a Nustad 017.

-though if the transmission is from a 200sx, it should be a 5-speed dogleg, I think.

Nice to see that it came with those plates... and a 4-speed!

Fiiiinally! He posted a thread here, and I think Ratsun's 710 contingent all tried to encourage him to take the plunge.

Go get it, or tell us where its at so we can.

tbubar's car - he's posted it for sale on here a few times. It looks great for a northeastern car.

I'm preeeeety sure that I know which '74 710 in New Hampshire you're talking about, and I'm thinking that if you have the idea that you want to do some parts swapping, you might want to start out with a transmission swap - that way you can get rid of the automatic and make the car more fun to drive, and get an idea of what kind of work is involved in swapping parts for an old car.

I think its been repainted - it looks like it was a lighter color before (look where the little pull-tab on the fuel door is missing) Maybe even the same color as my 710, before the sun whupped it.

The color does work really well for the car! Glad you are able to save this 710 from becoming one with the earth.

As the title says, I'm looking for a L20B long block or complete engine in good condition somewhere in the Northeast part of the country (somewhere between Brooklyn and Syracuse would be great!)

Let me know if you have something that fits the bill!

I'm wondering - I hear a clattering kind of sound - more through the carbs, but since there aren't too many moving parts in the carb, could I be hearing a crapped-out valve seat? The sound started since I got to Syracuse a few days ago.

Also, I had new hardened steel valve seats put into the head since the old bronze ones were beginning to sink. maybe one of them popped out?