Sephakrid

I just went out and checked my belt. It's a Gates 7365

I picked up a Gates belt earlier this year and it fits perfectly. I'll get the part number when I return to SD this evening. The fan/alternator belt is not as wide as the one on the power steering pump. Setting the tension is a little tricky since there's no adjustment screw like on the power steering pulley.

I got around to cleaning the fusible link wires on my truck so I could actually read the markings. They seem to follow the Mitsubishi color code that you listed. My 1984 truck has black, green and orange/brown wires. Black - 1.25 Green - 0.5 Orange/brown - 0.3

I've got those O'Reilly wheel cylinders. Installed sometime in January and put about 1K miles on them so far. I haven't noticed any leaks yet!

I've been looking for the same part! I believe the Nissan part number is 22363-D1700. One outlet receives a vacuum signal from the venturi. Once venturi vacuum reaches a certain level it will cause an air bleed inside the valve to open. The other outlet is connected to the ported vacuum source. Basically, this valve causes a vacuum leak in the ported vacuum circuit when venturi vacuum is high.

I just thought I'd post some pictures of the 1984 ECU my friend picked up from the junkyard recently. It's pretty simple on the inside, with what appears to be through-hole components throughout. Also, these early ECUs seem to have the inspection light toward the rear. Basically, you have to look from behind the driver's seat to see the light.

My truck will sometimes idle like that (maybe not quite as bad) during warm-up. Once the coolant temperature stabilizes, idle RPM increases to about 700-800 (measured with timing light) and the engine smooths out significantly.

Do you have a picture of the plug? Does it look like this?

This was my strategy as well. I applied to a program in Wisconsin, which doesn't require smog for vehicles older than 20 years. If I registered the vehicle in Wisconsin then I wouldn't have to deal with tough CA smog laws while focusing on school. Unfortunately, my application was rejected!

Wow that looks nice!

This looks like 14055-10W00. Does the hose go from the intake manifold to the coolant inlet pipe at the front of the engine?

I really need to start going to bed at more reasonable times instead of posting at 3AM! Anyway, this is a page from a 1984 FSM that I found to be pretty helpful. It provides an overview of all the inputs that affect whether the solenoid is active. The '86 FSM also has some more tests for the E.C.C. control unit: Hopefully this helps! The system predates OBDI I believe, and it doesn't seem to store any information.

Echlin part# 2-4131 The box contains two diaphragms, which are needed to repair the B.C.D.D. on some of the DFP384 carburetors. I haven't tried to install them yet, but they appear to be identical to the ones I took off my parts carburetor.

The VVT valve should be attached with two bolts near the rear engine hoist point. I haven't gotten around to testing mine yet and I'm not too sure how it even works.

The dimensions on my original sliding window, measuring from the outer corners of the aluminum frame were: 50.5" bottom length 13.5" height, measuring from the middle 4' from bottom left to top right corner The aftermarket replacement window was about 0.5-1.0" longer in all dimensions and still worked with the seal. It just took the glass shop some extra time to get installed. I live in San Diego, so we don't get much rain, but I don't see any gaps between the seal and truck body. The bottom corners (see previous post) aren't perfect, but I suspect this may be related to the slightly different dimensions on the replacement window. Honestly, I like the look of the Vintage Rubber seal more, but it's been out of stock forever!

I finally had the rear glass seal installed, along with a new slider. The shop said it was very tight, especially in the lower corners. I'm not sure if this is due to the seal or the slider, which is aftermarket CRL and may have been slightly too large. It went in eventually, though! Also, yes this truck is a heap and I question why I keep throwing money at it!

From pictures that I've seen, the port with the 90 degree bend is used for the EGR, while the straight port goes to the vacuum advance. There might be some other components that use them as well, but it's impossible to know for sure without a vacuum diagram. Is there one on your hood?

This is a little off topic, but thank you for posting those pictures of your Urvan carburetor. Yours if the first one I've seen (besides mine) that doesn't have a third port for a vacuum line on the side.

While inspecting the various vacuum-controlled components around the engine bay, I discovered that my vacuum advance was connected to the manifold instead of one of the ports on the carburetor. Upon further investigation I found that the carburetor only had two vacuum ports! The 1984 and 1986 service manuals all show three ports. In addition, the spare electronic feedback carburetor I've been messing around with also has three ports. Does anyone have a vacuum diagram for a DFP384 carburetor with only two ports? Here are some pictures comparing the two types: Two port: Three port: Unfortunately, the carburetor on the truck was rebuilt at some point, so I have no idea what version it may be. It does have the Hitachi logo on the side, so I doubt it's one of those cheap knockoffs floating around on Ebay.

I can also confirm that the yellow connector in the second picture is for the temp. sensor that goes to the ECU. Here is a picture of mine: https://imgur.com/MnUt1Tg

That's about where the needle has been on my truck after replacing most of the cooling system (rad, thermostat, water pump, hoses). Intake manifold temperature is stable at around 82C at idle when using an 82C thermostat. I also verified the opening/closing temperature before installing by putting the thermostat in a pot of water and heating it on the stove.

Kinda random, but my dad has been using NO-OX-ID for a while at the recommendation of some of his PG&E coworkers. https://www.sanchem.com/electrical-contact-lubricant.html It's too bad you're not local. I'd totally loan you some since he's got a huge tube of it. The only thing I can say for sure is that it has kept the battery terminals on my 1994 Pathfinder in pretty good condition over the years.

Nope not yet! My cooling system finally isn't leaking anymore, though. Progress!

Part: 8010943 (or other variations ending in 943) is available from NAPA/O'Reillys/Autozone as well as Rock Auto and even Walmart. They may have either aluminum or plastic tanks. I'd just buy from wherever is cheapest and has the best return policy since they're all about the same quality. I see a lot of people on Facebook running this style so they must work! Mine bolted to the truck without modification but the brackets are slightly too thick, which places the fan shrould very close to the power steering pulley. You would also have to saw off the little tabs at the top of the shroud to get it to sit flush against the radiator. I opted to recore my radiator instead to avoid modifying the fan shroud. It was 650 dollars, though!