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spddm0n

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About spddm0n

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Colorado
  • Cars
    85 Nissan 720 KC 4X4, (3) Nissan Xterras, 02 Frontier SC, 91 Toy MR2 Turbo, 90 Toy All-Trac Turbo
  • Occupation
    Engineer

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  1. I’m rebuilding a combination switch, swapping parts from a newer one into mine, since I couldn’t find a good used one that is compatible to my truck, but a lot of the components in the newer incompatible version swap right over. I want to re-grease the moving plastic parts, and some of the moving parts have electrical contacts as well. I’ve always wondered what grease is the correct grease to use when you need to “conduct” electricity and lube plastic mechanical parts. I was reading that I should not use silicon based grease for electrical contacts and I should use a higher temp higher viscosity grease. I imderstsnd dielectric grease is actually an electrical insulator, so I don’t want to use that. Any ideas?
  2. By the way, I finally found the page with the electrical diagrams for the headlights. Who would have thought they would be with the combination switch??!! 🙂
  3. spddm0n

    Engaging 4WD High

    Suck. Yeah, I remember those days. I had manual hubs for that reason. Good reason enough to swap these for manual at some point. 🙂 I
  4. These headlight "switches" are all combined in the combination switches with the wipers. I did end up using part of the headlight switch (the little box of electrical contacts) from the new combination switch, and swapped it over to the old one to replace the contacts that weren't working. I didn't swap the stalk itself, as it seemed to not want to be removed. I was in a bit of a hurry too, so I might revisit that at some point (the only reason I would do this though, is because all the white lettering on the old stalk is wearing out and the new one looks pretty). 🙂 Yeah, effectively, I did swap the headlight switch from one to the other. 🙂
  5. What I mean by Chinese is all the current replacement parts for nearly any vehicle that you buy at Autozone, Pep Boys, Advanced Auto, etc. like the one in the photo above. It's some American company, but producing it in China. My fuel pump looks factory, but I haven't removed it to check. It's still working. 🙂
  6. Thanks Charlie. That would be great. The fuel pump replays are the same for all Z24 applications produced 11/1982 and later. I did find one (chinese-made) in the salvage yard truck the other day, and the truck is up and running again, but I would love to know the resistor sizes if you get around to checking. Never know how long the new one will last. The newer ones are all printed circuits (obviously), and who knows how well the components will last. 🙂
  7. The truck I found in salvage is an '84. It was a 2WD version that did not have intermittent wipers (mine does), and the body of the entire unit had a different layout, so the clam shell plastic that surrounds the steering column won't align correctly. It did look like a good cleaning might work, but it could also use a bit of sandpaper on the contacts. I actually was able to remove the entire electrical contact assembly in the new unit and swap it into my old unit, refreshing just the headlight switch part of the unit, so it all worked out. By the way, the combination switch does activate individual (LH, RH) headlights individually. It does, however, operate the low and high beam on the same side on the same circuit of the headlight switch part of the combination switch.
  8. Well, I dug into the combination switch a bit more. There is definitely something wrong with the combination switch somewhere in it. When I turn the lights on, then push forward on the stalk, only the driver-side bright bulb comes on. Then, if I gently "tap" on the plastic body of the combination switch, the passenger-side bulb will light up. I can't isolate where the problem is in the switch, but it certainly does appear each headlight is getting a separate signal from the switch. I still can't find a wiring diagram for the system though. Even in the FSM. It's not showing the head lights in the "lighting" area of the EL section. I may try to remove the stalk from the new switch and swap it into the old switch.
  9. Hmmm...I went though all the bulb swapping etc. yesterday. The problem remains on the same side. The only thing that reproduced the behavior was flipping the stalk in the combination switch. I couldn’t find the wiring diagram in the FSM either, so I couldn’t verify how it was working. I imagined the head lights (together) would get the same signal from the combination switch, but I noticed the behavior being different. Perhaps something funky with the relay, depending on electrical load or something. I have another relay I can swap it with. I’ll try that.
  10. My headlights started having a problem recently, in which one of the high beam light bulbs wouldn't turn on, and then would randomly come on as I was flipping the settings on the combination switch (the stalk on steering column) between high beam, low beam, and flashing high beams. I determined the problem being in the combination switch. I went to the salvage yard yesterday and picked up a replacement (an '84 720 randomly showed up there recently, and rarely are these available near me). I was so excited to find one that looked like it had recently been replaced on the truck in salvage, just before it ended up in the yard. I went to pickup other parts, but when I saw the good-condition combination switch, I grabbed it. Turns out, it's different than mine. Looks like Nissan changed the part just for 1985. In early models, there are three connectors built into the back of the combination switch. On the late models, there are two, with one pigtail of wires hanging off the combination switch with the third connector on it (which is a different pin shape). I'm likely to try and clean/repair the combination switch I have. Has anybody ever done this or have any advice for me? Thanks!!
  11. $0.03 vs. cost of a new cheap Chinese version. 😉
  12. Excellent! I just uploaded more pics to the original post #1). Part number on mine is: 28545-89900. If you remove yours and open it up, be careful with the little screws on the back, they can strip easily. Once the cover is off, you lift out the black plastic base (shouldn't even need prying) and remove the circuit board. In order to remove the circuit board from the main body, flip the unit over and work on pressing down on the 6 metal spades that protrude through the main plastic body. They slide through nicely if you keep them moving down and through the body evenly. The spade alignment with the body are what are keeping the circuit board held into the plastic body. 🙂 Thanks!!!
  13. Yeah, I understand. I figure that some others may have removed their's in attempt to repair it, like in the magazine article, didn't have success getting it to work, and kept it (still haev it lying around or have pics). I would imagine they would be the same if the part number was the same. 🙂 I'm just hoping for a clear understanding of the size of the resistors. They should be easy to replace. 🙂 I'll upload a pic of the part number too.
  14. I thought I should probably start a new thread on this topic, rather than piggyback off another related thread. I'd like to repair the fuel pump replay (fuel pump control unit). I know there is a magazine article that talks about soldering a couple of the leads, where the solder begins to crack over time. I had a different failure. I burned out of the fuses on the board, and a second one looks like it's been overheated too. Has anyone ever taken there's apart to make this repair and have any pictures of it? Or, have one laying around that could tell me what the correct color bands (size) of the resistors on the board are? I would like to replace a couple resistors to repair mine, but since its burned up, I cannot determine the color bands on the body of the fuses. 🙂 Here is what mine looks like.
  15. Or passenger doors, without door lock cylinders. WTF?!
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