Slow Loris

Feels pretty good with only the one ear! I guess we’ll see how long it hangs on!

That’d be southwestern Idaho, land where no junkyards have Datsuns.

Thank you, I was wondering if that would hold, I’ll give that a shot. I caused this because for some reason I couldn’t get the pin back in through the three ear-shifter-ear holes (even though I’d just taken it out to add a shim in the lower sloppy section) so I went to “re-align” the ears and the damn thing snapped right off. Got too greedy.

I’ve got the monkey motion 4 speed in my 521– So in an attempt to tighten up some shifter slop, I broke one of the upper ears/arms that holds the fulcrum pin in the shifter lever, snapped clean off: So uh, shit. Is this a drop transmission to replace that little #1 assembly situation?

I dunno how the heck you made this work. Try and steam and stretch as I might I just end up with either a giant wrinkle or a big poofy hollow spot in this area of the tunnel. Pretty sure I’m even using the same carpet you did. Just inept, I guess.

Finally our new d.p. has arrived.

The one for the EI set up I got from Napa says “for electronic ignition” on it, but maybe that’s just Napa.

Yes that is the distributor I bought. So I did exactly as datzenmike is showing above with the non-matchbox with hei, and I snagged the plate and pedestal off a similar year 620 to match the distributor to get the right range of adjustment on the timing plate. So my rotor also points at the “wrong” (not stock) plug 1 location at TDC, but as you’ve figured out that doesn’t actually matter and it adjusted into time just fine. I also bought the coil for the same year 620.

Not to add another voice but I can’t tell if you all are speaking the same language still…This IS pretty confusing but the sequence you are quoting is correct, so I wonder if then you have 2 and 3 swapped because you are calling your cylinders backwards? You’re still firing 1342 you just have it shifted off two to 4213. Anyone else following that?

I got the Cardone Chinese “remanufactured” EI from Rock Auto. Haven’t had it long enough to recommend it or not, but it certainly works so far, for what it’s worth.

I did the same thing to my 521 about 33 seconds after getting it home. So I can say from experience the latch stays on real tight with only the one bolt in there…

Yes I think like you say multiple ways. It wasn’t obvious when I started but this works: Reason I did that is the threaded hole in the base of the B pillar is in a recess that the retractor thingy won’t sit flush in. Possibly you could use some spacers to work it out. Anyway, so I used the cab to frame mounting bolt. In terms of the hardware, the “hardware kit #1” has nice big washers and that L bracket and I didn’t need the rest of it, I bought new bolts that fit the threaded hole in the B pillar and reused the ones into the floor, so there were some leftover bolts and washers from the supplied kit I never needed.

Seat belt mounting bracket from seat belt planet

I did this recently with the kit from seatbelt planet and it worked great. You need their hardware kit and also the seat belt mounting bracket which is the threaded plate and then the matching shoulder loop bolt (sold separately of course) that matches those threads. I tied a piece of floss onto the bracket, shoved it through the gap between headliner and top of B pillar, and lowered it to the holes I drilled. Use a long piece of floss you don’t want to drop it all the way down there. Use a tiny screw driver or sheet metal screws to hold the plate still while you bolt up the shoulder mount and you’re good to go. Very satisfied with it.

I’ll give that a try. Yes, I do have the upper and lower gaskets to sandwich around it. I think when it took the pre-existing ones off, there were actually two paper gaskets stuck together on one side, which seemed weird. Maybe PO was onto something there…cuz it was at least idling before I started messing with the carb. Oops. Absent this being the culprit, I couldn’t detect any other vacuum leaks. So hopefully this is it! Thank you!

Okaaaay well I now recall that during my prior checkout of the carb, when I removed the phenolic spacer it was cracked (or I cracked it during removal) so I glued it back together. I took another look at it and maybe it didn’t form a perfect enough mating surface after it glued—a little uneven. Though the glue is solid. And I also noticed a couple tiny chunks taken out of the inner edge of it: Pretty tiny chunks missing there, but maybe something? Anyway, think these could combine to make a vacuum leak? Having never seen one of these other than this one, is this one perfectly useable or time for a new one?

Well I’m certainly not in love with it at the moment but I also feel like somehow this is probably my own fault so I shouldn’t abandon the Hitachi just yet. I’ll start saving up my lunch money for the Weber, maybe in the meantime I’ll get this sorted out.

Interesting! Physics is cool. It was just a thought, absent any detection of vacuum leaks but I’ll keep checking. Is that a realization about my Hitachi or an advantage of the Weber? I’ve got the Hitachi—I’m assuming stoff is recommending I visit the nearest lake and throw in the Hitachi.

Would an icing carb give that kind of bad idle? It was about freezing, colder than I’ve ever tried running the truck pulled from my frigid garage, and using an aftermarket air cleaner assembly so intake air unheated.

Nothing blatantly obvious jumping out leak wise. Will try the carb spray leak test around the base and intake tomorrow. I had the carb apart previously and replaced gaskets and tightened it all up and it was idling better than ever. Then did the accel pump and main jet and float chamber clean out and now this.

Copy that. Will investigate.

Stock hitachi, DAF, manual choke. I thought I needed to change out/troubleshoot my accelerator pump (truck dying when transitioning from 1st to second gear change or sometimes on takeoff from standstill) so I removed the pump and sprayed the circuit with cleaner, which had no effect, so I changed the pump, also removed main jet plugs and sprayed cleaner up through there and down through float chamber, now I’m here: Experiencing very weird idle speeds—high, low, engine dying, racing, surging, and all manner of weird stuff if opening or closing the choke. I press in the gas pedal, pull the choke, let off pedal, to start truck as normal. The idle is high as normal with choke pulled, the engine starts coming to temp so I start easing in the choke but the truck dies. Okay, restart the truck now it sounds like it’s idling great but high, about 1000 then ease in the choke and the idle goes UP to 1500 rpm (with choke all the way in). Okay, that’s weird but try and take off and drive—nope truck dies. Restart, (choke in because warmed up) truck is chugging, chugging, so pull choke out, idle smooths out but still high. Wait a few minutes and push in choke and idle goes even higher! Sometimes, pushing choke in lowers the idle so far it dies, other times, it rises. Huh? Fuel level on the glass is dead on the line. What the hell is going on? Self inflicted yes—this wasn’t happening before I messed with the accel pump, but I was equally going nowhere all the same… what is my carb telling me?

FWIW I just converted from points to EI and found this same thing—didn’t have all three wires when all said and done. I just went with it with only the Run wire and it starts and runs fine. I found this same debate on the forum from some years ago when I was re-wiring…it seems like…everyone is correct.

Ah ha. Those pieces are crucial! I made something out of an old spark plug boot and now I’m honking up a storm.

Okay thanks I’ll stick some o rings on there and see what happens. Seems like I’m not making contact when I hit the horn button so I’m hoping these move the plate up towards the back of the button? Not really sure what’s happening to be honest.