mojojojo78

I am using this in my 510: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081JN8S8X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 It works really good. What's nice is it is GPS so you don't have to worry about what gear you will need with a specific tire size. I haven't had any problems with this particular brand. I also used it in my 41 Ford. It does take a few seconds at first to find a signal, but once it does it is very accurate. What is also nice about this particular one is you can program the odometer. So instead of starting at 0, you can program it to show the current mileage showing on your odometer. But if you want something nice and also multiple gauges like tach, oil pressure, water temp and voltage, then I would go with Speedhut. They are more expensive but they look like good quality stuff. I haven't used them because I just can't afford them. https://speedhut.com/

I finally got it road worthy and took it to work today. Still working out some issues, but it drove great. There's a little oil leak at the head and my fuel pump has a slight leak. So the drive home is going to be fun.

I just went to the first few posts and saw a 123Ignition for sale dated April 16th, 2023. On the realm there is a user with only 4 posts (thequanandonly) that has the exact same picture posted for sale. This post says they are in Sacramento. The ad description is exactly the same too. So I am guessing they are the same person. https://the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?t=35101 https://the510realm.com/search.php?author_id=68598&sr=posts

I don't know if they are the same, but you could look at the 1st gen Sentra (B11 1982-1986). It replaced the 210, so it might have similar dimensions. You could also look into a custom windshield, although that will get pricey.

I'm slowly working on this Super Bugger. I got some doors made and a little bit of the interior. Just filling some gaps so I can put a primer coat on to see how it looks.

Tamiya. They have nice quality kits. The detail on everything is nice. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WN88Q8?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

I was working on the Super Bugger a little more last night. I didn't realize how much of a "chop" I had given the windshield area. I also didn't realize how wonky some of my cuts were. Well, its my first attempt. I might try another if I feel ambitious enough and if this one goes well.

I was thinking about making the rear window a pop out style. I am trying to figure out the best way to do the interior too. I will take a look at the acetate sheets.

Thank you Yenpit. I thought about it, but getting even some of these straight flat pieces to line up right is a task. If this one goes well I might try another one. Maybe improve on the design. Right now I am trying to figure out the best way to make nice windows.

I haven't made model since I was a kid. I have a bunch of kits but they are just sitting there. I finally decided to make one and I got overly ambitious with this one. I have a VW Bug that I am converting into a Super Bugger RV. I don't know how it will turn out, but so far it looks good.

The Holley Sniper EFI comes in a 2 barrel also.

Thanks Crashtd420. I have been looking at them recently. Now I just need a few hundred bucks.

@510_Dreamin, Hows that 123 Distributor working out for you?

Thanks Mike. I agree, there was a lot of calculating to do when using the alternator terminal as the signal for a tach.

From what I could find is there are some alternators, usually used on diesel engines, that have a terminal that puts out a signal for a tach. It is obviously a different type of signal than what most aftermarket tachs use, mainly the negative side of the coil. There are some tachs that pull a signal from either the cars computer or this terminal on the back of an alternator. I was just wondering if this particular terminal labelled P puts out that type of signal that can run a tach. The reason I am asking is I bought a tach and GPS speedometer set. The speedometer works great. But I couldn't get the tach to run and that is because it wasn't designed to run off the coil. It was designed to run off either an alternator or from the ECU.