FatDatSun

OP post is spot on. If you're confused it's you and not a type.o. Thanks for the simple shit in life.

This is the answer to OP.

I've successfully done this with a chronograph watch, the higher end ones are pretty accurate.

Just did my alternator upgrade in the 73, it does have the l20b in it. But moving forward. It had the 35 amp alternator in it. Swapped in a 1994 subaru loyal sl, the single pulley option. You have to grind off one of the lower mounting tabs, (there is only one) You have to bore out the lower mounting bracket i.d. hole as well to fit the mounting bolts. You have to replace the upper mounting bolt with a bolt, washer and lock nut. But the arm can be used. The original belt can be used. The wiring must be done. The "T connector" Yellow will go to top of the T and the white/ blue is the lower half of the T (the one going verticle) on the stock it was reversed. Then at the external reg, connect red/white with black/white and connect white with yellow. There is a second yellow, the yellow white, ignore that one. If this was done exactly you'll have a running 60 amp upgrade alternator. If not don't like this, your problem will be a bad alt or your wiring is shit. Or in the other case, my wires were shit but I narrowed it down. Goodluck, I feel this was pretty accurate.

Clear as day now! With all this, the swap should be ready by the end of the month. And finished by sumer 2039 lol

From Question 2 77 to 79 620 drive shafts. Does it have to be from a single cab like mine or is all 77 to 79 620 have the same drive shafts lengths? assuming they came with the L20 Found answer in search: The wheel base must be the same for driveshaft swap. From Question 2 Can part of the drive shaft section be swapped between the longer and shorter and would the wheel base matter at that point? Meaning can part of a kingcab drive shaft section be swapped on my original? OR DOES IT ONLY WORK WITH a SECTION FROM THE SAME WHEEL BASE FROM 77 TO 79 620 L20B WITH 5SPEED

Just to confirm, Use original or equivalent current clutch and all surrounding components. Am I not using anything from the 280 na other than the transmission itself?

When you say L16 release bearing, you referring to the current one in my l20b?

ON TO THE NEXT In now at the moment: (healthy and running) Motor is L20b with 4speed F4w63 I will be getting a new: Drive shaft (shorter) (unless resolved by Question2 below) Modded rear transmission mount Motor mounts Gaskets and seals Questions: Q1: Is everything else used from the f4w63? Clutch,fly, throw, bearing, speedo cable ect ect ect. Q2: Would a drive shaft from 1977 and up 620 with a 31 inch trans work instead of a new one? Q2-1: If not is. there one that will work? Q3: Is it easier pulling out the motor and transmission OR just dropping the transmission and reinstalling? GOAL: To reduce rpm at higher speeds. Nothing ever goes to plan.

So them clamps lowered it by a inch, one pair in front leaf and one pair in rear of leaf. Doing that I installed the 3inch blocks back on and used the extra set of nuts from the 4inch blocks as locks. Rides stiff but nicely imo, fronts just turned down. I gotta say I like it, being on a budget a hitting well below the budget. Next is, let's attempt to 4x4 it till it breaks.

No, that taps into 4x4 build money. 4x4 > lownslow

Ok, so I bought leaf spring clamps. Up to 2.5 inch leafs. Installed and yeah, it fixed the overload spring hanging and axle wrap. But the car runs stiff. Now on the the rear shock mount. Oh and it was not the drive shaft scraping..lol it was the exhaust. It is lowest point on the car being ran lower than the cross. Ill come update after I relocate the mount. If no reply then I probably just left it because it didn't bother me no more. Since it only scrapes on sidewalks going up a bit.

Very useful, especially the 510 wagon mount with shock to match, sounds to fix one issue. Thanks ill look into it, if not then welding it is. Or who knows, drive it till it breaks then find new problems. Thanks.

True that! Funny shit tho, few days ago I forgot n ran over a speed bump, the split ones... and got stuck pretty good. The shock threads got caught up in street meat..lol shit was hilarious. Im having fun with it. But yes, going 4inch blocks get harder for you guys if you guys are wondering if its a good idea. 4inch blocks are only good if u drive 10mph everywhere. 4inch blocks are ony good if you dont drive it.lol 4inch blocks are only good if you can actually fix it when parts get broken. Importantly 4inch blocks are good if you have 195/50/15 at the least. As I always say, these are my experiences. I hope its informative to u all. My errors shall be ur accomplishments. Or however that should be said to sound smart.

My old original one went bad, got one from oriellys, didn't put the spacer in and made the weep hole leak. So since its lifetime warranty, I got another one. There are two that the 620 ask for. The older looking style one works better because of that arm that goes in is less of a bend. The newer style always makes that weep hole leak. I've tried 4 total. Remember the spacer, running without it guarantee that the pumps weep hole will "weep". JUST my experience.