iceman510

On 8/9/2024 at 3:15 PM, edekalil said:

Trying to get everything finished up with getting the head on the L20B. I have another cam for the L20B but I believe you can put a stock L20B cam in a L16. If that is true and is beneficial I'll put it in the L16 in the Goon which is running great but greater is better correct?

Yes, you can use an L20B cam in an L16.  Essentially the same as the SSS cam that was offered in Japan.

Not really today, but went racing last weekend.  Had some fun battles with a two other 510s, a 2002, couple Alfas, GT6 and a TR7.  Not a lot of pictures (wife took some but I don't have all of them).

Looks factory.

On 8/10/2024 at 12:20 AM, carterb said:

Had to get a new fire system.  When I sent our old bottle in for inspection ( you have to do that every 2 years ) they said there were two little dings and a bend in the handle so they couldn't recharge it. 

 

Nothing to do but bite the bullet and get a new bottle.  Of course the old one is no longer supported so I had to get a new style.  Which takes different hose and nozzles.  We sure love racing don't we boys?!

 

 

 

I put in that same system last year, as mine was quite old and no longer serviceable.  It's pretty nice, but as you said, I had to remove everything existing and run all new lines, etc.  

Thanks for the reminder on service check.  I may be due end of this season.

What size and offset are your wheels?  

On 8/5/2024 at 6:07 PM, ran when park'd said:

It just has a wiggle about it after turns, like a tank slapper feel. 

Maybe just me, but I could use a bit more explanation of what this means.

I don't have all the particulars in my head, but search on here for some threads.  You are lucky you have a disc truck already.  I believe Hardbody (D21) spindles do fit and give you the option of those brakes.  I am not sure what hubs/rotors etc. you use in combination.

You said no adjustment to the rear, but did you get numbers of current settings?

Jeff, regarding this statement- If you are close to zero toe in the rear it doesn't feel confidence inspiring.  I take it you are suggesting there needs to be some toe-in for the rear.  At least that is my understanding of the norm for street cars.

Need an update Darin.

Yes, still available in the US at least.  $9.66 MSRP.

It's a combination.  They need the US to be brought down because they don't like the individualism/freedom/success leading the way.  But I also agree the type of people who run the WEF and even the EU want all peoples/nations etc. brought to heel under their elite leadership.   They of course know what's better for you than you do.

2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

The take away from this is she is not fully Indian nor Jamaican but certainly has African roots. You need only look at any Jamaican to hazard an opinion as to where they came from.

You may have missed the irony.  Here father and mother were likely both in their home countries when they were British subjects.

The point is- she changes and claims whatever is convenient based on the subgroup she is sucking up to at any moment (pun definitely intended).  As others noted above, she claimed with loud bravado to be the first Indian-America Senator, because of course there had already been black Senators, women Senators, and black women  Senators, so no novelty in any of those claims.    

If she needed to be British for something, she'd claim it.  If she needed to pander to dope smokers she'd claim to be Jamaican.  Oh wait, she did that already.

2 hours ago, Duncan said:

I could be wrong, (again) but didn't some states have have a legal age for beer and wine at 18 years old?

 

Yes, grew up in Wisconsin, where at the time both Pabst and Schlitz were in the top 10 brewers in the country.  Also #1 state for Brandy consumption.  Alcohol is a lifestyle there and it was legal at 18 until NHTSA made highway funds contingent on upping it to 21.

I was never carded since I was 17, so never had a problem with the limit.  Changed after I was past 18 and those beyond were grandfathered in like TJ mentioned.

Believe it or not, modern OE leather-wrapped wheels still are done by hand stitching.  There is no good way to do this by machine and get good results.  There are some savings of course from economies of scale with die-cut leather pieces.

12 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Isn't Kamala's father Jamaican?????

So she's British?

13 hours ago, datzenmike said:

What a tool. He's remembering Elizabeth Warren who he called Pocahontas. Christ what a fuck up.

He called out her hypocrisy.  Understandably all her fawning supporters bristle at this.

Make sure the battery cables are clean too,  You can get an attempt to start, but not enough current to power the engine spinning over.  

2 hours ago, Larsonian said:

how can i make sure they're the right length?

Depth of the bolt hole plus the flange thickness of the joining part, minus some clearance margin.  And keeping in the guidelines of thread engagement mentioned by the two guys above.  Keep it between those max/min dimensions.

On 7/28/2024 at 10:29 AM, ]2eDeYe said:

 

 

Thanks for the pics Redeye.  Love the look of this one.

Agreed.  Wow.

I don't know about now, but my kit bought back in the 80's had boot covers over the front.  Rustbin's photo above suggests to me (if I am interpreting it correctly) that his boot may have been in the wrong location.  It should cover the ball and socket joint on the front end of the body pocket.

5 hours ago, MrQuiet said:

 

My understanding is a bit different. And my comments relate to the illustration below.

 

The distance A-B never changes, as these are fixed points on the chassis. And distance A-C is fixed, as this is the length of the control arm. The caster is adjusted by changing the length of the TC rod, distance B-C.

 

Once everything is torqued down, the distances within the complete suspension assembly never changes. The A-B, A-C and B-C are fixed distances. Hence the angle at C, does not change either, as the suspension goes through its motion. The entire suspension assembly rotates around an axis passing through points A and B (The green line).

 

If one look at the B interface alone, as the entire suspension assembly goes through the motion, the TC rod will experience a slight rotation, in relation to the TC rod anchor on the chassis. If the bushings at B are too stiff, and not being supple enough, I would think some unfortunate torque and/or bending forces are transferred to the chassis and the TC rod. With enough cycles the weakest link breaks. And from what I can gather, people experience that the TC rod breaks, and not the chassis anchor.

 

It would be a good practice to torque down all the bolts in this suspension assembly (At A, B & C) with the suspension at its nominal position. As it would be positioned when the car is complete, sitting on the ground. To ensure the bushings are as "stress neutral" as possible in the nominal position of the suspension.

 

Great explanation.  Only a couple things I would add.

Location A should definitely have the fasteners tightened at ride height, as that avoids the bushing being in a bind and potentially tearing.

Location C should not matter as it is a hard metal to metal joint and really should not move.

Location B I believe has special instructions as to tightening.  You do not just crank it down because some compliance there is needed.  The ball and socket joint kit shown above contains the U-shaped gauge that is used to set the proper tightening location.  I have one of those around here somewhere.

As the control arm AC sweeps through its arc (picture a bow), it would shorten/lengthen the dimension in a single plane between B and C a bit, requiring essentially a little bit of left/right movement at joint B, but much less than the up/down range of motion required there.  The aftermarket replacements use a rod end to allow both of those ranges of motion.

As fiveoneO mentioned above regarding bolt hole elongation at location C, I believe that is only for variation in mounting pitch. Those joints should not be able to move. 

25 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

wouldnt the bore size hole for the aluminim cup have to be bigger as when it flexes it has room to move if this is a perfect bore size hole I dont see the dont see where the TC rod flexes

 

I don't have dimensions, but I may have a set around here.  I need to look for these for MrQuiet anyway.  I can make a comparison.  I should be in the shop tonight and some tomorrow.

On 7/25/2024 at 9:19 AM, banzai510(hainz) said:

Rosso

Somebody says they dont flex enough.  Unless this is a updated one somehow.

 

This design doesn't have to flex, Hainz.  The ball rotates against the socket.

The urethane type are known for breaking TC rods because they are too stiff and don't flex enough for the range of motion. 

On 7/23/2024 at 8:30 PM, mrbigtanker said:

This guy is out by me. Cool guy a little odd but very cool.

I have talked with the owner on the phone a few times.  So far their stuff I have used has been essentially equal to Datsport parts (which are considered the creme de la creme).  They have provided customer service too when I wanted to order something in a different quantity or outside of a set they sell.