yenpit

It was around 9th or 10th grade, many years ago, a buddy's older brother shows up in a 1969 Cactus Green 2 door, 2.0L dual Hitachi SU's, 5 speed, header, loud exhaust, Mulhouland Racing suspension, and what I think were 14 inch Z-car steelies, painted silver. It was a very clean car, and that was it for me! Peter was cool enough to take us cruising with him a few times, and he drove that car hard! My buddy (his younger brother) immediately bought a 71 1200 Coupe, built the motor with flat top pistons, ported & polished, a single 40DCOE sidedraft Weber, Clifford Research header, and a "fire truck" loud exhaust. The 510 was eventually t-boned by a drunk, sitting in his driveway. NOT a nice way to go. Peter then bought a 2000 Roadster, but never spent much time on that car. Man, we had fun in those cars! A few years later, my buddies & I rented a house next door to a very competitive SCCA racer named Jeff Werth. Jeff had a huge garage in his backyard, where he worked on his BRE-replica SCCA car. I believe he was nat'l champion a few times (maybe Dave Patten remembers.......??), but that car was way cool! He also had a bad-ass dark metallic blue 2 door, with bubble flares, fully painted & polished 2.0L, with dual sidedrafts, and slammed to the ground. He was also an SCCA Solo Autocross champion in that car! I believe both cars are still around in the Wash DC/VA Metro area somewhere. Even though I was neck deep into MG's by that point, the love of the 510's stuck with me for many years, until I finally bought my first 510 in the mid-90's.

Here's the unit cleaned & sandblasted........................

This is what the previous owner did, to allow flat towing with the automatic. It bolts to the bottom of the front snout of the diff, has what I say looks like a synchro slide hub assembly (inside a manual transmission), and is actuated by a pivot fork, again, just like a synchro slide hub. It even has brass "synchro rings"! On the pivot fork, there are two square TEFLON sliders, that ride in the goove of the slide hub. Once disengaged, there is a big bearing, which allows the "freewheeling" rotation, without spinning the driveshaft, thus the transmission. The mechanism was actuated by a simple "push-pull" cable, like a choke cable, mounted right under the front seat. It's all rusted solid now,and I'll loosen it up, but I won't use it on my car, cuz I drive too hard, and I would fear the lock hub movin' around! It's been a great conversation piece, over a few beers!

Really depends on what you pay for the car. I spent $550 for hauling a free car home (actually 2 cars, but the other one is 90% rusted out scrap metal!), with that same rust in the front frame extension (and plenty more!), but I'll weld it up, and drive the car as a beater! If you are looking for a restoration project, I'd pass too, but is it cheap enough to be a great parts car once you find a better car...........??

This lamp is for our USA-specification 1968 510 ONLY (does NOT fit the 1969-1973 510)............... This lamp is for our USA-specification 1969-1973 510............................ I have both of these USA-spec lamps available if it is what you need. There are a few other Japanese- & Euro-specification lamps that the USA did not get, BUT they were imported over the years by people, so they do show up for sale here...........you just need to identify the lamp that you need! Hope this helps!

I got 6 or 8 of them in a box, from some parts deal. I've had a few Wagons, but they have all had the standard crecsent-shaped chrome handle, with the black plastic insert.

I've got a number of these black inner door handles, but don't know what DATSUN they fit. Any ideas??

PM sent!

Hey hang_510! Everybody's over here on Ratsun, huh!!?? Wow. Towing an AUTOMATIC - I was holding out with pics & description, until I sandblast "the mechanism", which allowed them to tow this car. I was blown away when I saw it! Here's a hint - look very closely where the driveshaft attaches to the diff.................:P more to come!

Hey Mike, great to hear from you! I cheated with the struts, and installed new Tokico Blues all the way around. More to come, but it's beer o'clock here on eastern time.............

Like I said, she's a rusty one! Both of the forward frame rails, ahead of the sway bar, are rotted out on the outward facing side..........the other three sides of the "box sections" are scaling with some rust, but they seem solid. When the fab guy welded the tow bar brackets right to these frame rails back in the day, my guess is that they did not treat the areas properly, with rust preventative or even paint . No wonder they rusted out! I'm gonna try to clean up the INSIDE the rails as best I can, treat with Chassis Saver (POR15), cut out & weld in patches, and then load the crap out of the inside of the rails with WaxOyl or some other oil-based rust inhibitor! Both of the front floor pans are rotted out too, so I'll make some patch panels, and weld 'em up! Now that's a big hole!! The rear of the rocker panels are rotted & full of bondo, as are the rear lower 1/4 panels behind the wheels, but they are holding together. I think I'll leave all of that alone, to maintain the patina!!

Hahahaha! :huh: Funny thing is that I had to go look at the grille myself, cuz I really haven't spent much time looking at things on this car!! Nothing out of the ordinary. It is a stock 70-73 grille, and still has the factory polished slats and the blacked out slats........so many of them were completely polished or completely blacked out by owners.

I dropped all of the suspension out, and scrapped off all of the "peeling" factory undercoating. I have never seen a car with the factory undercoating falling off in huge sheets! I decided to get the rest off, and it just "flaked off" with a light touch of a scraper. I decided NOT to re-apply any undercoating at this point, but I may go back later. Again, I'm trying to get used to NOT making everything pretty!! The whole underside of the car looked like it had been under water, with a light tan dusting of dirt/silt, dark brown rust speckles & heavy rust pitting EVERYWHERE! My guess is that it sat on a dirt floor and/or in the grass. The rear suspension assembly was soooooooo freakin' rusty, that I just dropped the whole thing out, and put in another assembly from a clean Colorado parts car. This pic is of the original unit. While there, I put in a Subbie 4.11 OPEN diff (only replaced the side stub axle seals, didn't even clean it!), all new brakes & brake hard lines (the original hard lines were completely "pitted" thin with rust!), cut the original springs (always been a no-no to me!), Tokico Blue shocks, Z finned alum drums, and "flipped" & welded the big forward subframe mounting washers. For the front suspension, I used 280ZX struts, with 510 spring perches sitting on top of a "split collar" for adjustment, cut 510 springs, an old set of the Moog upper camber plates, a new set of bump steer spacers, a mix of new & used bushings, rebuilt calipers, turned rotors, and repacked the wheel brgs. All this time, I tried to use old nuts, bolts & hardware whenever possible.

Here's my latest project! I got the car out of IA, from a forum member in PA, who didn't want to see it go to the crusher (thanks Mario!). It's a basically unmolested original car, that was apparently used as a "tow behind" car on a motorhome. One of the tow bar brackets is still on the car, the other one rusted off! She is a rusty one, but once I got it home, I decided to see if it would run (probably sat for 10+ years in an old barn), then decided to see if it would drive, then decided to build a beater! The last number of cars that I have built, over the last 20 yrs, have been mid-to-full restorations, so this project was a BLAST!! I had a used 32/36 Weber, a used SSS single point distributor, all new tune up parts, a black wrinkle valve cover (just had to do it!), changed the oil, new battery cables, yanked off all the emission stuff & the A/C stuff, and fired it up! I had to patch up one of the automatic oil cooler lines, changed the trans fluid, and it shifts good (ZX 5 speed is ready to go in). Interestingly enough, literally all of the electrical & lights worked, but I still soaked the fusebox and all of the relays in vinegar, just to be halfway safe! LOTS more l'il things to do, but it runs & drives just fine!

Do you need the full length panel........door jamb to tail lamp? I've got a 69 2 door shell that I am just about ready to cut up, but the PASSENGER SIDE panel was "spliced" many years ago..........I think there is a vertical weld right in the middle of the rear wheel arch, and I simply can't see the back side, cuz of other inner sheetmetal. Have you considered "splicing" a section in to repair your damage? PLUS, shipping from Michigan on a full panel would require truck freight, which is $150-200. I could box up a front or rear section, and ship Fed Ex or UPS or Greyhound....................

Curious, rust repair or accident damage? I'll email a picture of what I've got (sorry, haven't figured out how to post a pic here yet!)................... TJ

Somebody here, or on the510realm, had recently made some 510 rocker panels, and had them for sale. Anybody know who that was? Tyson or ??? :unsure:

On the way today via USPS Priority Mail...............:D

Somebody recently had a custom made KA24DE dual sidedraft manifold for sale, either here, or on the510realm. Bottom line, you can buy the sidedraft carb mounting flanges from a Weber distributor, cut the stock KA24DE manifold approx down the middle (at the "peak" of the intake runners), and fab up a decent manifold. I think the 2nd pic posted by ggzilla is it, as I can see some rough welding just behind the carb mounting flanges. I've heard rumors about a "production" manifold, but very rare. Man, there ain't nuthin' like the sound of some wide open throttle sidedraft Weber's or Mikuni's!! Almost as good as............ahhh, well, never mind!!:hyper:

Dave at FutoFab sells NEW ones. Great guy, and I've heard the quality & fitment is excellent.

Is this what you meant by "CB style" with a ball mount swivel base, and a spring? There's a bunch of variations on eBay, using different search words, but classic & vintage & stainless steel sifted out most of the late model crap. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Realistic-Universal-Radio-Antenna-AM-FM-Auto-Coil-Spring-Base-Swivel-/200704388334?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2ebae9ecee

Thanks for all the input! Hang, you a lucky man!! This happened to me before a few years ago, but I figured it was a one time fluke back then. My machinist buddy suggested "splitting" the nut with a quality chisel, cuz even heating the nut to red hot didn't help on the last one. New nuts are available from Nissan, and I think Riley at Lynchburg sells the 280ZX nuts for the 510 (??). Cutting/burning the nut off with a torch is likely too risky, as that nut is recessed into the cavity of the inner flange, and I think would be difficult to do without other unwanted damage. From what I've gathered since yesterdays hell, it all comes down to the manufacturer ......Datsun....... and how the engineers designed it, and applied it. My guess is that moisture gets in there, and oxidizes the threads, thus adding contaminents, thus binding up when attempting to remove the nut, thus ripping (galling) out the threads, cuz the threads are the weak link. The other possibility is that the engineers didn't think far enough ahead to design these nuts to come off properly. Perhaps it's a design flaw, and a high percentage of them are already "galled" when installed, and simply rip the threads out when removed..........it may be a 50/50 gamble trying to twist the nut off. If I can successfully chisel the next one (I've PRE-sold a pair to a forum member!!), then that will be the method for the future! I will post my findings................. The second one I did last night, even with the nut red hot, ripped out ALL of the threads ON THE STUB AXLE! I have 2 where just the top 2-3 threads are slightly chewed up, but I can't send them to the buyer, so I need 1 more good one. I've got a few more swing arms to try! I will look into buying a new die later, to try to repair the other ones. Grrrrrrrrrrr!!

Anybody use this system yet? Too bad it's 3in pipe, as even a modified 510 only needs 2-1/2 max. I can't imagine that they'll sell many of those. I figure that the forward extension of that system is suitable for any manifold & downpipe or header combination, with a simple connector pipe made up to suit your particular need. Do you think that picture is right, unless it passes UNDER the rear subframe...............?? http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Nissan-Datsun-510-SR20DET-KA24-Catback-Exhaust-/140678124483?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item20c111d3c3

510 Sedan.......what is the best method to remove the big "pinched" nut on the rear stub axle, on the rear swing arm/wheel bearing. I have now galled/stripped the threads on two, and I'm not a happy camper! I typically carefully grind away the "pinched" lip on both sides, then heat the nut, and then use an impact to remove. Help!!

Do you still need these parts? Your PM doesn't seem to be working..................