airedout

This only works if your sprung height is the same as your desired ride height. If not, you need to remove the leafs and set it at the height your going to drive the truck. Then you can set your lower bars paralell to the ground, with your uppers pointed slightly toward the ground to make the instant center around the trucks front bumper.

Take the hubs and rotors or drums to your local machine shop, have them drilled to the pattern you want, then press in new lugs. Im not positive this will work for your applicaton, but ive done this on many different vehicles. Any decent machine shop should be able to handle this kind of job, and tell you if it can be done or not.

I have a set of beebanis disc brake brackets that ill sell for $75 shipped. Since i am clipping my truck i wont need them anymore. Beefy brackets, im sure they will work fine!

expect more pics by the end of the weekend, hopefully a complete narrowed clip

Blasted and primed, im tired today so i probably wont be doing any work tonight. Should get a ton done this weekend though.

Got some more work done on my hardbody clip for the datsun tonight. Just finishing up one of the lower arms. Ill let the pics speak for themselves: Flattened the arm to make for easy bag mounting: What it used to look like: On to the next side, then narrowing the clip

I had some time today to start working on my hardbody clip. Worked for a few hours and heres what i have done so far. Working on getting rid or the strut rods by triangulating the lower control arms. Ran outta time today, ill get some more done tomarrow!!

Well, i left the datsun logo at least =]

The body drop is just over 2 1/2 inches. Its a 1 1/2 inch stock floor, and a 1 1/4 inch traditional with a hardbody clip. Just enough to get the rockers on the ground minus the pinch weld. This truck is on 20's with a real meaty tire and a toyo clip. I have no doubts about the wheels fitting with the tire sizes im going to run, and the wheel i will be using.

18x8 infiniti qx56 wheels. had them on there for about 3 years, and still never driven the truck. Gonna sell em soon and get some billets, 20's and 22's once the bodydrop is finished and the economy comes back.

yeah that truck has been up for sale a few times recently. It is nowhere near as nice as it looks in the pics. Painted over dings and dents, kinda blows the whole deal for me being a bodyman and painter. Nice, but could have been so much nicer with just a little more effort Your project is looking killer man!!! Cant wait to see it run!!!

Stick a fender on it and get some lifted pics, i really wanna see how much it lifts. Does it clear the tires????? What is the overall height of your tire??? On a side note, how well is it going to align with the front crossmember dropped????

Replace the fender and valence for sure. Id be on the lookout for a bed too. The rust in the floor boards just needs to be cut out and replaced with a good used part, or fabricate some panels to weld in. Solid weld, never just tack. I see it done so often, just tacked in and seam sealed it just looks so cheesey.

Im going to have to make the actual steel opening smaller. Which will actually help the look of the pillars. They look kind thin now with no drip rail hanging off of them. Im also going to have to bring the flange out a little too. The new windshield i have will get a blackout treatment (around the oudside) like a newer car windshield, then glued in. The rear glass is going to get a new piece cut for the opening, i dont want to make the rear window any smaller. Plus with all the bodylines, it would be a pain in the ass.

I don't have the tig torch setup yet, its another $500. I will be getting it as soon as i pay my truck account down some. It runs dual regulators and 2 bottles (you gotta buy the dual bottle rack too), one 25/75, and one straight argon for tig. This is only a steel tig though, which doesn't bother me, i don't do much with aluminum anyways. The welder is also 100% duty cycle at its max amperage, i could run it all day long continuous no problem. The company making these for snap-on make production assembly line welders.

It actually quite a pain in the ass to do. The whole edge of the roof sticks out around a half inch all the way around, so you end up re contouring the whole edge of the roof.

Great running J13 for sale, trans is good too. $300 obo

you just couldnt stay away could you...........:D

Well now that the Camaro project it done and gone, Ive been working on the Datsun again. Over the weekend I shortened the rails under the cab and dropped the body mounts an inch and a half. I'm going to have to do a small traditional on the cab just over an inch too. Its going to be getting a hardbody suspension clip pretty soon here too, so i can get the proper amount of lift to drive the thing. Ill get this damn thing done one of these days. Only a little over an inch to go to the rocker!! All that work, i knew i should have put the tubs in higher Part everywhere Drip rail Ive been working on, the windshield opening is going to get reshaped for a modern thin gasket Old drip rail My new toy, god i love it. Snap-on 250sl mig/tig

Mine got a little lower this weekend, only 1 inch to go to the rocker now :D, next weekend the rockers meet the ground Whats your plan????? You building one for yourself or someone else?

pugz, i thought you got rid of your 521???

This took about 6 months and $14,000. The car was striped to the bare metal inside and out, and the was a whole lot or work that you wouldnt even imagine. Floor pans, fixing the bent up rockers, panel alignment, with aftermarket parts, the 100+ hour sanding and buffing, there are so many little things that i just cant upload the 1000 plus pictures i have of this car taken over the 6 month period. Me and my father do this on the side now that we closed out shop 3 years ago. The cost would have been double that at our old shop rate, but with no overhead we can cut the costs. But we both work fulltime jobs, him in a collision repair shop, and me in a restoration shop. So this is a nights (when we are not to tired) and weekends project.

Paint prices start at $2000-2500, add for any damage or rust repair. We only use the highest quality materials, and sand and buff to the finest finish. I can just about guarantee you best paint awards at just about any show you could take it out too. Id love to paint your car!

Its already lowered 2 inches all the way around, and lower and there would be nowhere to run the exhaust. Chevrolet left no space to run the exhaust under the unibody structure, it just runs under it. And being a 780hp 454, it really does need the 3 inch exhaust that it has. I do agree though, if it were mine i would have had to channel the exhaust up into the body and have around 3 inches of ground clearance under the pinchweld