Claudman

Been playing again on the Dyno. Boosted it to 15 PSIG and got the following results:

Sign me up. About time I started on the 620.

Out with the old rear axle and in with the new rear.

Much progress has been made on the new RX7 rear and differential. I was delayed by the fact that the Mazda ratio was a 4.07 to 1, and the ratio in the stock wagon was 3.9 to 1. I was going the wrong way with the gearing and wanted something taller. After considerable searching I was able to find Mr. Ben Herne of Puddymod racing in Florida who seems to be the expert on all things to do with the Mazda differential. It turns out that the Miata MX-5 uses the same gearset as the old RX-7 and Ben had a set of 3.63 gears available. Ben sent the following pics and comments earlier tonight: The rear came out great, everything looks and feels perfect. Here are the pics of your build... This pic shows the assembly... This pic shows balancing the carrier and the ring gear, balance is about a thousands true round. This pic shows the PuddyMod solid steel sleeve being set, note the old (replaced) crush sleeve shown out front of pinion. his pic shows the backlash set at 3 to 3.5 thousands, it also shows the perfect gear to gear pattern. This pic shows the finished rear build. Note the information on the LSD. It looks great and with the mods should be good for over 350 HP. I plan to test it. At the same time John Wallum is working on narrowing the housing. It is finished and looks great as well. Can't wait to get all the parts back and assembled.

A meet would be great. I'm in Houston and would drive to Dallas area for a meet. Count me in provided I am free the weekend you pick.

Very nice find. You will have a great time with it. Nice to have another wagon in Houston.

Just got an RX7 (84 GSL-SE) limited slip rearend to replace the open diff on the wagon. New project to get it narrowed and installed in the Wagon. Disc brakes and limited slip.

Carter, I'd like some details on the rear end. I have the same out of a 84-85 RX7 GSL Se to put into my VG30 Wagon. I've cut the brackets off and getting read to narrow it, but would like to ask some questions on how you did yours. How much did you narrow yours? Looks like the RX 7 brakes set up to use the stock Datsun emergency brake parts. Very cool. Didi you have to do anything other than modify the connecting rods? What pinion angle did you use? Any comments would be great. Very nice looking rear end.

Thanks for the complement, spent more that I should and not enough at the same time. You likely have a gas cap from a 69 or earlier since they changed the tank in the wagon in mid 69. I did the same thing once and had to return the cap.

Turbo can be done. My VG30 is out of an 86 300 ZX, but I rear mounted the turbo since I wanted to keep A/C. Several others have been done with the turbo under the hood. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/14184-1972-510-green-wagon/page-3 If you do a turbo you will need custom exhaust manifolds. If you have the skills to weld up the manifold then you can do it with the stock parts for reasonable money since the 300 ZX turbo parts are plentiful. The stock manifolds on the 300ZX will not work unless you cut the firewall on the 510 to make room for the x-over pipe. I would shy away from any extensive body mods since I have seen several project stall with cut up firewalls. Easy to cut, not so easy to fix.

A friend of mine found this article by Indy car driver Alex LLoyd and I thought Ratsun's would be interested http://autos.yahoo.com/blogs/motoramic/driving-40-old-datsun-race-car-taught-greatness-211335071.html

Excellent point. It is a King Cab. Std bed.

I need the passengers side rear handbrake cable for my 620. Anybody have one available?

My 510 Wagon dyno'ed at 297 HP at the wheels and it is plenty fast without getting out of control. As long as I don't dump the clutch I can run at full throttle through 1st and 2nd with the rear end just on the edge of breaking loose, it just sort of wiggles a little. This is with 205/50/15 tires on the back. Much more HP and the tires would be breaking loose. And so far, nothing has broken. The rear end is the stock wagon with an open differential. Limited slip is on the list of things, but there is no easy solution for the wagon. The motor has more HP in it since I am only running 10 PSI boost, but that is fine for now.

SOLD I am offering the following pump that I ran on my VG30 510 for a couple of years, maybe 2500 miles, for sale. It was bough new and I used it on my wagon as the only pump and it worked well on a stock VG30 with the stock wagon fuel tank. I have since replaced the fuel tank and went with an internal pump. Part number 17011-P7211, sells for about $225.00 new on nissanparts site. I am selling it for $150.00, complete with mounting bracket plus any shipping cost from Houston, TX. It is very quiet in operation, so if you are running a Walbro pump externally and are tired of the noise, this is a great choice. It is the reason I used it.

The VR6 is a good radiator and I run with it in South Texas with A/C and turbo and it never overheats. I'm not sure what you mean about the size since you need to mod the core support anyway to fit the radiator. I cut out the stock hole to get the maximum amount of air to the radiator. With my install, Team Thump Motor Mounts, the VG30 sits way back leaving lots of room between the core support and the front of the motor. By moving the radiator closer to the motor you would have room to run the I/C lines around the sides of the radiator between the core support and the radiator. This was my original idea for the intercooler, but I ended up with a rear mount turbo and an air to water intercooler making the piping much easier. If you plan on using the VG30ET manifolds from the 300ZX, then this idea will not work since you will need to move the motor forward in the engine bay or mod the firewall, or both. As you can see I have a big ass fan and still have room plenty of room. Just an idea since there is a lot of room to work with. Please ignore the overflow tank, it was a temporary solution and has been replaced.

I would be interested in the compressor and the bracket if it came from an L-Series motor. Please let me know.

PM Sent, I'll take the A/C Switch.

The carbon fiber wing was on the back of a Lamborghini Gallardo. The seat are Corbeau Sport seats.

First tune is in place and after getting the AFR's in line first power run at 3.5 lbs boost was 206 HP / 230 ft# torque. Still lots of tuning to do along with increasing the boost, but it is running. Final tune and it hit 297 HP at 10 PSIG Boost. Hit the target I was looking for.

I don't disagree in the theory of what you are saying, but you must consider the entire package and the result of that. First of all I have a VG30 with that pulls very nice as it is in a very light car. I had a Ford 2.3 liter Turbo T-bird and it was a complete slug until it came on boost, but that was a heavy car with a smaller motor. No doubt it will not build boost as fast as front mount, but the motor is strong to begin with. Second, I have a much smaller turbo than many have selected for the VG30 with a ball bearing cartridge. It will be much easier to spool a smaller turbine and build boost quickly. Third, I will be only running modest boost so it will not take long to build up to max boost. I expect 3000-3500 RPM for full boost. With my 3.9 rear end, in 5th gear at 70 I am running around 2700 RPM, so it won't be a big deal to get to boost, drop a gear and away I go. Forth, notice that the line from the compressor to the intercooler is only 2" diameter and with an air to water intercooler the internal volume is much smaller than air to air, so this should help reduce any lag in the system. And finally, I am only looking for a modest, by VG30 standards, top HP in the range of 300 or so I can get away with a smaller turbo. There are many VG30's making 400 HP plus, but this is not my goal. For every choice there is a price to pay. Going with the rear mount and smaller turbo will limit the ultimate HP, but with smart choices in the design of the system you can also limit the lag in the system. I think that 300 HP in a 510 wagon will be enough, at least for a while.

Sure, these are of the inside. Not all are current since the gauges were replaced with Speedhut GPS speedo and tach and gas gauge.

The oil is ran off the pressure sensor port back to the turbo. It is a ball bearing cartridge and does not need much flow. The scaveger pump returns the oil back to the engine. I have the oil running into the valve cover at this time since the oil pan would need to tbe modified to accept the oil return and I did not want to pull the motor for this.

Almost ready to turn the key and start it up. All the fab work has been complete, new injectors installed and all that is left is the final wiring and tuning to get things going. It should be done this week. Following are the pics of the final install: The turbine housing and exhaust tips were coated by by good friend at Polydyn in Houston. Carl does some great work coating headers, brake calipers, carbs, and even has a low friction coating for crank bearings, pistons and other engine internals. This shows the oil return lines and pump. Reloated the MAF before the compressor with a shielded housing for the air filter. Since we are using a air to water intercooler, had to decide where to put the air to water exchanger. Water tank for the intercooler ] And the intercooler itself. The fun is about to begin. Many thanks to Jeremy and his crew at PowerFab for all their good work.

Bob, Go the rear turbo route. It should be very simple to get 50 hp or so. I am finishing up a project on my VG30 wagon, and with 6-10 lbs of boost the models say I can expect 50 to 75 hp on the 3 liter motor. I have an air to water inter cooler and should be able to boost up to 15 lbs without issue. And I think the install will look cool. The following is a photo of the system before I sent it to my friend over at Polydyn for ceramic coating on the turbine housing and exhaust pipes. I really like the small pipe coming off the waste gate valve