Claudman

https://fueltankparts.com/ Boyd Welding did the fabrication. Drawing is below.

Should have made the flange on the rear of the tank another inch longer, but it works well. Internally baffled. I have had it on the track and had no fuel starvation.

I had a tank fabricated for my wagon. Used the stock mounting point and filler tube. I have the drawing of the tank and used Boyds Welding for fabrication.

Finally back on the road after a 4 year rebuild. Redid the ECU to a Haltech,added electric power steering, power brake booster and re-tuned the motor.

Got the Green Wagon back from the tuner and am very happy with the results. With the Haltech I have a happy knob that will adjust boost from 6-7 lbs, (running of wastegate spring), 9-10 lbs and 15 lbs. Below is the results from the tune, all on 93 Octane gas. I can run E85, but will need a bigger fuel pump. It's close to maxed out on gas at 15 PSIG boost. Best part is it picked up HP in the mid range big time with the quick spool and JWT Cams. At 2000 RPM HP is up 50%, ant 3000 up 35% and at 4000 up 26%. Going to need new tires soon.

Body back together and ready to get tuned.

Some updates on the project, Haltech Series 2000 ECU installed New 600 CC EV14 Injectors Pathfinder Intake Jim Wolfe S1 Cams for VG30 Electric Power Steering Power Brake Booster Vintage Air Mini Heat and AC LS Coils fired from ECU Up and running and idling. Im waiting on the painting of the rear hatch to get it to the dyno for a full tune on the ECU and it should be back on the road shortly. Can't wait to see how the changes work out.

200SX Intake plenum with EGR and Idle removed. Also have another completely stock.

Under Dash AC Unit with good evaporator and expansion valve and blower

Heater Box with Good heater core and valve

Exhaust Manifolds 200 SX VG30 Cast Iron

Left over parts if you need them,PM me Traction Bar

Finishing up engine mods and Haltech install.

AC Installed The bracket is from a Z32, 300 ZX, modified to work with the VG30 Hooked up fuel pressure regulator Ran A/C lines and filter Worked in Intercooler pump and lines I was mostly a plumber this weekend, but getting it all together.

Got engine and transmission installed and started hooking thing up. Remote oil filter, cooler and thermostat. Heater Hoses to Vintage Air Mini System

https://www.godzillaraceworks.com/z31fuel

Pallnet Fuel Injector Rails (14mm, 6AN Fittings) Bought from z31online.com in 2018 They were $180 for the rails and mounting brackets with hardware. All the AN fittings are separate.

Got my engine and transmission in place ready to install:

I used a Z32 AC Bracket to mount the compressor Ready to roll under Got it under by lifting one side with a floor jack and the other with the engine hoist Now to get if lifted into place and start hooking everything up.

Lots of updates: Pulled Motor, new Jim Wolff Cams and clutch, Head work, Pathfinder intake and revised intercooler routing, moved intercooler exchanger to front of radiator, Vintage Air Mini System, Fidanza Flywheel, New transmission (other shifted poorly from 1st to 2nd), changing from .84 AR to .64 on turbine housing, blow through MAF, Nistune Feature Pack, E85, and more. While the motor was out I decided to plug holes and re-finish the engine compartment: before: After: Installed Clutch and Transmission:

Interesting, but it looks like your are blowing through the carburetor and if so you should pressurize the entire carburetor or get a blow through carburetor. Or you can suck through the carburetor. Take a look at the following http://www.theturboforums.com/threads/299573-THINKING-ABOUT-GOING-BLOW-THRU-READ-THIS-BEFORE-POSTING Be Safe and don't burn down your car. You can learn from some failures, die from others.

After adding the boost I found that I could not go full power without the rear axle wrapping and the pinion flange on the rear axle hitting the floor. In general this will make a very loud noise and generally ruin all the fun I was having up to that point. So, I happen to have purchased Kelvin's traction bars some time ago and proceeded on installing them. I removed the front leaf spring bracket and welded on the tabs supplied. My mig is a Lincoln 140 amp and it was turned all the way up. A friend of mine who is an expert (40 years experience and past welding department supervisor for a major oilfield valve supplier) did not like the weld much. Looks like cold welds, he says. Best I could do and they seem to be holding. The other bracket seems to be better: And with the bar on the car, SO, was finally able to take it out last night and drive it as hard as I could without the axle wrapping up and the pinion slapping the floor. 1st and 2nd gear go by so fast. 3rd gear is very quick as well and by this time I and hitting about 90-95, and it will keep pulling all the way through 4th, but I haven't tried to see how far it will go. These traction bars really work very well.

On my VG30 I had a Team Thump intake elbow that fits the throttle body on one side and the Z31 MAF on the other. It includes two ports, one for the PCV valve and the other for the idle air control if you are using it. See the photos below. I am not using the piece anymore and it is available if you need. Just send me a message if you want to discuss. The filter is just a small K&N Cone filter. Good luck with the VG30.

You make a good point and I knew that this setup would not build boost as quickly as a front mounted turbo. It really does not feel laggy as the power builds smoothly. If you compare the stock VG30 to the Boosted version you will see a significant torque improvement from 2500 RPM and up. Driving around town it is a blast since it will pull very well from any gear. If I had much more low end power/torque I could not keep the wheels from spinning. As it is I can stay in the throttle through all the gears and not spin. I have posted the baseline dyno when the car was running with the stock VG30. Stock torque at 2500 was 125 ft lbs. Boosted torque at 2500 is 170 ft lbs. You can feel the extra 45 Ft lbs. Stock torque at 3500 was it's peak at 150 ft lbs. Boosted torque at 3500 is 215 ft lbs. You can really start feeling the extra torque at this point as it continues to build to its max of 342 ft lbs at about 5250 RPM. If anything, it acts more like a car with variable valve timing as the torque never feels like it drops off. Notice how smoothly the torque builds to it's max at 342 ft lbs. at 5250 RPM. It starts to fall off here since this is still running on a stock truck engine block and cams. I will need to change the cams and/or head work to make more improvements on the top end. At this point it's running 15 PSIG boost (at the manifold port). Even as it is it makes good power up to 6500 RPM which is where the rev limiter is set.