captaingamez

here you can see the metal part of the boot (tulip cover) cut apart in the correct area. here is the boot off the cv joint you can see the line on the cv where I cut the boot, this is inevitable, unless you have a giant pipe cutter, which would make this a piece of cake, but hard to come by. the point is, if you look toward the differential side of that lip you see a machined groove, that groove can not be messed with if you want your cv joint to seal when you reassemble it, so when you cut the boot off, cut far away from that o ring, i would have cut farther away had i known exactly where it was, but as long as you dont damage it your good. the boot comes with the o ring. here is the disassembled joint, make sure yo mark all of this so it goes back together the exact same way, not sure if it makes a difference, but I have never been one to risk it either. no it did not come apart that dry, I know someone is thinking that, I cleaned it last night to inspect it.

so I drove to Phoenix Rack and Axle this morning, they said they can replace the non serviceable u joint. NICE, and for only $65, no problem, i will pay that all day. they said it should be done today so we will see.

I decided to go for the beck arnley replacement boots, it was $16 on ebay, I cut the old one off already, since I have had such a hard time finding pictures of how to do this correctly, I am going to post pics tomorrow, I already cleaned everything, but you can see where you are supposed to cut the boot/cover/colar thing off without damaging anything. Note on the axles: the maxima /910 axles are about 3/8 of an inch longer than 280zx axles, the 280 zx axles may still work, but i didnt want to risk it, otherwise the axles are identical.

did the adjustable tien arms in the front fit right up to the s130? i take it they are from an s13 right? do the front lower control arms from an s13 fir the s130?

I also thought about this after posting, but that assembly could be a pain to get into a press too, nothing wrong with using a air cutter, I just happen to have a press and a crappy air compressor, the air cutter idea takes me about 4x longer than it does you. man, I need a bigger air compressor.

so have any of you ever done the rockford U-joints? i watched a good vid on youtube about how to do them, but i think im going to take it to a driveshaft shop for like $65 and let them do it.

that time has passed.........

hahahahahahahahahahahaha, that is the truth. that thing with the versa is hilarious, i always wondered the same thing, what do i do if it gets hot? nissan makes great vehicles, but its frustrating when 30 years later you want to drive yours, and are limited by something like the fact that they made it so the u joints are a PITA to replace, or cant be done. i would get a custom shaft but its a few hundred bucks, and then it will be going in the parts pile when i put in my borg warner and have to get ANOTHER CUSTOM DRIVESHAFT for that. so spending $600 on driveshafts is not my idea of a good time, and my borg warner wont be ready to swap in for a little while, at least a couple months.

why in the right mind would any engineer use a non serviceable driveshaft, this car just to get an axle and driveshaft is a goddamn nightmare and im getting really damn frustrated, its juts plain absurdly stupid the way nissan designed half the stuff for the 280zx and maxima.

i have to say, the thing i was thinking for over half the video was "damn, this guy needs a press"

well im going tonight to look at some 280zx turbo axles, he wants $100 for both which is reasonable if their in good condition. but i am seriously considering the z31 thing, i need to figure out if the calipers would need to be modded to fit the most basic z31 4 lug hubs and such, that would leave me the option to go up to 5 lug if i want to later by using the later 5 lug z31 hubs.

option 3, (probably the best idea but also requires the most work) convert to 300zx style cv's and hubs.

soo, nobody has these after much searching nobody has these, my options are I either replace the inner boot, or I take it to an axle shop and have them rebuild it, which will be $100 and i dont know what that includes. seeing as how there is very little play in the axle, i would like to just put a new boot on it. my two opwions for that seem to be 1: cutting the entire inner clamp off which holds the cv joint in and getting the PITA beck arnley kit and replacing it oem style 2: removing/disassembling the outer cv joint and cutting the inner boot off the clamp leaving the clamp in place, then putting the standard style boot on the factory joint clamp with the rubber removed from the outer side, then put a new boot on the outer. anyone follow what im getting at? thoughts?

so are you saying that you can use any clutch/flywheel combination with the borg warner t5 as long as they go together and you use the throw out bearing that goes with it?

hey, thanks yellowdatsun, I'm enjoying both forums!!. thats kinda what i thought about the no thermostat thing. I noticed that the clutch master cylinder hole has the mount holes and everything and there is a block off plater bolted on, removing this should allow me to put the master cylinder in at least, and then i will see about the pedals, its a little ways down the road though, I need to get a clutch and flywheel for it still and i am considering rebuilding the t5 with new synchros, plus i need a custom driveshaft made with a custom tranny mount for it.

i dont think the cap is the problem because when it gets hot and i shut the car off and it heat soaks, the pressure then goes up and you can hear it boil out into the overflow tank. that should mean its working right? this happens a few seconds after turning it off not immediately

looks like the cap is new too, but i guess it could also still be bad.

could i run with no thermostst just for the puspose of finding out if it is the thermostat? I obviously would replace it once i found out that isnt the problem or got a working thermostat. I will be tearing the radiator out next though, is there a good method for cleaning it? I would like to get an aluminium down the road...

the P/O replaced the thermostat with one of the duralast jobs, but that could well be the problem still i suppose.

thanks, the group over here seems more laid back than hybrid z. so I got it warmed up tonight not hot hot just warmed up and pressurized. then i felt both cooling hoses (which were hot as hell, duh) and neither seemed lacking in pressure when i revved the engine. whats my next course of action.

thats just f##ked up

thanks alot for the advice, i will give it a try and report back tonight.

all the belly pans are in place, i can clean the radiator but the ac core is still pressurized, and i would like to keep it that way til i can see if it works(need blower fan). the condensor looks to be clean, i mean theres debris there but its not really blocking it per say, mostly just some bugs. theres nothing I can see blocking the radiator and all the fan shrouds are in place. i am going to try what king rat said about the hose pressures once i get it heated up do you think i should try running it with no thermostat? and see if that is the issue, i know the P/O just replaced the thermostat too.

ill have to check that out, is there anything else it could be, possible restrictive condensor core? it still has all the factory ac stuff in it.

im sure it wont be too bad, wehre theres a will theres a way, its a ways off anyway, im gonna keep it stock and slowly restore the interior first anyway. it is giving me a little overheating issue on the highway right now. not sure what it is, but i think the fan clutch is bad. that shouldnt cause it to get hot while its on the highway though right?