jcd0402

Just got good news!!!! The shop owner finally got to better inspect my rods and said they can be bored. The bad news now is that I receive my new set of pistons with one of the 4 being broken. So they'll have to wait on me till I get the pistons to bore out the cylinders. :mellow: Anyways, Thanks for the great info guys!! Will be hearing from me in my project datto post soon.

No the rod doesn't look blue but some bearings did have a very small hint of blue. Crank surface appeared to have some minor marks on it, nothing too deep to be non-repairable. I already took it to the machine shop, they made me order 0.030in overbore pistons, 0.020in undersized rod bearings and 0.010 in undersized crankshaft bearings. Yet, I was told that there was a large possibility that I had to change the rod, since it showed scoring on its surface (not the bearing surface). Tomorrow I will head there early and get a second opinion, good thing is that they already finished with the head and valve work.

You can also notice that one bearing cracked,and that one looks like it got hot. Making me think that all of this happened because of lack of lubrication.

If I remember correctly I believe that is the surface of the rod without a bearing. My bad that is the rod with the bearing on. But the pitting also occurred on the rods surface, and it shows multiple lines on it. *

This would be the reason as to why I believe I need a new rod. This would be the reason as to why I believe I need a new rod.

I already ordered a new set of pistons and rings, going 0.30 over the std size. But thanks for the offer!

The rod is at the machine shop right now thogether with the engine for rebore. Previous owner had it all torn apart. I do know that the rod had u60 stamped on its side. I'll post pics of the rod bearing and rod as soon as I get home.

Okay guys I'm having a hard time because I fail to comprehend what other rods fit on the L20B without modifications. Recently I sent my L20B to the machine shop since I got it with a messed up rod bearing. (It spun) Now I'm having trouble finding an U60 labbeled rod. So I was thinking maybe there were other rods that fit on a stock engine. Since I think I've read that z20e and z20s rods fit without modifications. But I want to be sure, before I screw up my freshly rebuilt head. Thank you

Go all the way down so you can see the variations between the 62, and 63. http://web.archive.org/web/20120804213305/http://www.earlydatsun.com/datsunsp31062.html Sweet ride by the way. I have 3 failadys 1600, 2 70s, and 1 67 lol, yet only 1 runs, and drives. Also go to 311s.org, there you will find tons of information about this sweet little cars.

OOOOHHHHH, okay, so yes, i just need to follow the diagram just like mhub91 said. Thanks icehouse, now i know the real motive as to why both 104 and 4 go in pin 85 on the relays.

Ok. :thumbup: Thanks ^_^

So both relays don't need ground, only does wires inserted into pin 85? Sorry :blush:

Don't worry, i never saw you as an asshole. What i'm asking is from where does both relays the one on the top and the one on the bottom get a ground source? Because yhe one on the top has wire 105 in pin 85 and the one on the bottom has wire 4 in pin 85. Which to my believe pin 85 is the pin that needs to be grounded. Or am i wrong?

Are ecu pins # 104, and 4 grounds that come from the ecu? I'm asking because i don't know what polarity they have. Also because the relay for IACV is actually grounded compared to the other 2 relays. Again sorry for bothering.

Can anyone do a wiring diagram for a ka24de 93 that doesn't need the can/am box? Only builds that i saw that did't use the can/am were this ones.----------> http://community.ratsun.net/topic/537-how-to-wire-a-ka-ca-sr-and-vg-into-anything/page-30 Sadly they don't show what wire goes where, or at least a sneak pic of what wires bolt into each relay. I would really appreciate the help, because I've been looking into swapping a ka24de into my roadster. Hopefully i don't have to go the more expensive R1 ka24e swap way. Thanks You

HAHAHA, You haven't missed the best part. The best part is cleaning and repairing the engine! :p YES, i will defenetly keep you updated. I have to admit that mos of the paint work was lazy work. :@ O well, i guess that happened because the work wasn't done in a paint boot. I am actually going to recover all the wiring as im looking for burns, and slices.

Finally the car is out of the shop. That means that i will be asking tons of questions to everyone that wants to help. This is just a little preview of the car. The camera does not do justice to the paint. By the way, I want to say thank you to everyone that's been helping me out. Plus does anyone have pictures of how to take the gauges apart, so i can clean them.

The roadster are really nice looking, and probably great handling cars. haha can't prove the last point i haven't driven mine. :( They are also increasing in value really fast like tomakze stated in his post. I ended up picking my roadster for $800, well i admit it's not running. But it's almost there. You can see my build and see the progress of my build. Good luck on your search for a roadster. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/45232-the-father-and-son-roadster/

Well thats true we do need to stick together. Cause we all usually dont get answered back. lol Im also in the 311s blog, brings tons of help with the wiki tech.

This are pictures of the current work going on. :w00t:

The same has been going on with my roadster build. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/45232-the-father-and-son-roadster/

So this is the progress so far. YES!! I know the car is sitting very unsafely on bricks, but hey that's all i got. Hope you like the slow progress. :yawn:

any manifold that fits 2 dellorto carbs on a r16, and some links to go with it.

Yesterday i finished looking at the insides of both carbs. And i have to say the owner stored them up pretty good, they just need some cleening. But all the screws and gaskets are perfect for some more years.

Not craigslist but in junkyard. 1967 1600 roadster missing dash. It also has some good rust. selling complete for $800. In 2133 shaver st pasadena, texas. p.s if you buy it and you are willing to sell the intake manifold message me.