jcd0402

Oh, that's cool I guess; specially since I'm planning to daily drive it once the a/c gets installed, and I finish inspecting all the chassis components. But that won't be till later in the summer once I get new suspension hardware, and new rear brake masters.

Would you happen to know what that roundish thing with the center bolt do? It says open and close. I've been trying to find carburetor manuals online to see if I can find all the details about this one but no luck so far.

https://imgur.com/x43wBK3 https://imgur.com/kqCOKKa This is the carburetor I'm running. I belive its an new/old stock arrow carburetor. Don't really know if its set up for an a/c. Yet, I do think it has an electric choke.

I guess I can make a cable that twists the throttle a slight bit every time I turn on the a/c. Just like the old datsun roadsters cruise control cable that is hooked up to the throttle linkage.

Oh, okay, thanks guys. Guess I wont really have to worry about it not being hooked up then. :D Now I just need to figure out how to raise the idle for when I start installing the whole a/c system.

Yeah, originally the car is a 4 speed. I'll be keeping it that way. Nothing will happen if I don't wire it up right; since I'm using a non-emissions distributor?

Thanks datzenmike!!! Guess I don't really have to worry about it since I'm running an L20B with a single points setup, which I'm later upgrading to an new electric ignition distributor I have stored. At first I actually thought it would increase my idle since the car came with an a/c setup, but looks like I'm completely wrong. :rofl:

Hi, I have quick dumb question to ask since I don't seem to understand what the box on the throttle linkage is. Does any one know what it is? Thank you https://imgur.com/a/UkRcK

Yeah, me neither, I'm the only person in my city maybe even county to have one as far as I know. I already finished rebuilding my L20B, just need a distributor part to get it back running thogether with new brake lines. Hopefully I install the A/C too before the summer kicks in.

I knew it, I even have a picture of it from when it was posted on Craigslist in a storage depot. I was thinking about buying it since I had just purchased a 510 and was in need of rear quarter panels since mine are rusty. But I never managed to get him under $1200 for the shell, and I had just paid $1400 for mine and its way more complete. So I just couldn't see myself spending more for a shell that needed more work. X.x But you my friend just did a great job on lowering his asking price. :P bBut I guess it was for the best since now it will be restored and not chopped up.P.S Us Texans with 510 should meet up sometime once our shells are back on the road! :D

Quick question, did you buy the car in Texas? Also welcome to the forum, the place were all you questions will be answered!!

Well just found out that the transmission mount holes are the same, but the crossmember mount holes aren't. Which means the chevy mount works, but it will need to be adapted to the cross member like the roadster one too. To my luck the previous owner has the original 510 tranmission mount so I'll be picking it up tomorrow from him. Also my flywheel has A67 written on it I believe. What does that mean? I also placed a 510 clutch on it to see if it was the same size as the matting surface and it seems to be spot on. The L20B came with a W58 head and I think someone on here said it usually comes with a 200mm flywheel.

No, sadly the previous owner didn't give me the transmission mount, just the cross member. I have a roadster transmission laying in my parts stash and I thought that one had a mount I could steal from it and to my surprise it was also missing it. x.x He also forgot to give me the throttle linkage that hooks to the carb, and $100 for a new one feels like a lot tbh. :o

I'll make sure to post a picture tomorrow of the cross member, can't do so right now since the car is in a different location. Also i'll make sure to get the serial number of the transmission as to further help you guys out. I also believe if I am not mistaken, that the datsun roadster 4 speed has the same transmission but with a different bell housing. Which made me guess that the Chevy mount that the roadster owners use might also fit the 510 with the drilling of new holes in the cross member. As far as height difference goes, I don't see how some washers couldn't compensate the difference. Link to the Chevy transmission mount guide. http://www.311s.org/pmwiki-311/pmwiki.php?n=TechSection.ChevyTrannyMount

So based on what I read, the mount won't fit correctly. What would the difference in mounting be? The mount won't mate to the transmissiin or to the crossmember?

https://m.ebay.com/itm/T404-Fits-68-86-Nissan-510-521-521-Pickup-620-620-Pickup-720-Transmission-Mount/142270157719?fits=Make%3ADatsun%7CModel%3A510&hash=item211ff65397:g:5IkAAOSwnHZYmmTi:sc:USPSPriority!78520!US!-1 That is the listing I am talking about. Also how would I meassure the flyweel? Is the 200mm from edge to edge or the circumference?

Well just to get this struggle out of my head, is the 620 mount and the 510 mount the same? According to eBay, the 510 and 620 are interchangeable, but since rockauto doesn't have a 510 part I don't know how to get a part number for it. Another quick thing is that the transmission will also be mounted on an L20B with an L16 clutch as opposed to the stock L16 with an L16 clutch. Thank you!

Quick question that I just can't seem to answer through the search function. Does anyone happen to know the bolt size and length for the exhaust and intake manifold. Im asking about the bolts that mount to the engine head. Thank You!

That's to mount it on an engine stand right? Just want to be 100 percent sure since my post did sound alittle confusing.

Hi, just got my engine from the machine shop and need to figure out the bolt size required to mount it on my engine stand. The engine is an L20B, thank you!

My new rust bucket, not the nicest but proud to call it mine. (It has severe rust in the rear lower quarter panels.) L20B is currently being rebuilt to make it my daily with a/c.

It has TDC and R2040 stamped on one side and T-2 on the other side.

Oh, okay, guess you learn something new every day! Specially here :thumbup:

True, maybe that's why they made me get a 0.020 undersized rod bearing . To take .010 from the crank and .010 from the rod. Just making a guess, I'm not really sure.

Yup, resized as Stoffregen said. They remove material from the rods and the crank. But the removal is so minute that I would like to think it won't mess with the compression. About the weight difference, I do believe there will be some, but nothing that can't be fixed with a grinder and a scale. :)