demo243

If you wouldnt mind posting a part number that would be great- I was going to do both sides just to do it- but the driver side is fine and appears that it has been done already- stub axles is ground down a bit from where a prior owner ground it down - although does seem to spin exceptionally freely - maybe they used really nice bearings on that side

Thanks for the replies guys- Got in there tonight, had to dremel some of the half shaft connecting bolts to get them off but got it apart and started dremeling away at the peened portion of the nut - wish i had some impact tools to do it... going to order the bearings from NAPA tomorrow $18 each - i think i need to order the nuts from nissan though - self locking sound nicer then peened ... but is it more of a pain to get off down the road? probably going to have to rent a slide hammer- bearing puller- bearing press from Autozone this weekend... hoping I can use the press at work to press the bearing onto the spindle

From my research that seams to be what I am reading,... sounds crazy but if thats what they say....

Was just pointed to this Walk through by one of the CTZCC Guys Datsun Z Garage http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/rearwheelbearings/index.html Looks to be a pretty complete walkthrough- more work then I want to do right now, but gotta do it if I want to race! Napa Can get me the Wheel bearings next day and the seal in a few- The big question is now on the nut- Do I need the same nut that needs to be peened or is there a self locking one that will work - I have been told this one works on a 240 - 43262-W1200 - anyone know if it will work on a 510? CTZCC Post- http://forums.ctzcc.com/viewtopic.php?t=7307&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

So I am working on getting ready for an autocross in about a week and a half and I realized I had play in 3 of my 4 wheels... I think I have the front ones figured out and fixed - just needed to pull the hubs, rebuild them, torque the hub nuts correct... stuck on the rears I have the drum and shoes removed- and if I grab the lugs I can wiggle the plate slightly from 12-6- it apears to be wiggling through the hub housing - which leads me to believe it is bad bearings.... :( - My haynes manual doenst make it seem nearly as bad as what I have read here - but they also talk about a self locking nut and 58ft lbs torque.... and what I have read talks about a peaned end and 250 ft lbs torque Am I just mixing things up? does this sound like a wheel bearing issue? - it definitely isnt a suspension issue... as I can see that it moves on either side of the hub- thanks in advance for the help! trying to get her completely together and ready for the autocross in just over a week-

Think I have the front ones figured out and fixed... stuck on the rears I have the drum and shoes removed- and if I grab the lugs I can wiggle the plate slightly from 12-6- it apears to be wiggling through the hub housing - which leads me to believe it is bad bearings.... :( - My haynes manual doenst make it seem nearly as bad as what I have read here - but they also talk about a self locking nut and 58ft lbs torque.... Am I just mixing things up? does this sound like a wheel bearing issue? - it definitely isnt a suspension issue... as I can see that it moves on either side of the hub- thanks in advance for the help! trying to get her completely together and ready for the autocross in just over a week-

****** Edit***** Just Realized this is a classified thread.... so yea wrong section... guess Ill post one in drivetrain Sorry to bring this back from the dead... again... but it seems to be the most informative topic I have found and its always good to keep topics together... In the process of going through my 71 4dr before autocrossing the 23rd- had some play in the front wheels- rebuilt those hubs and torques them and they seem fine- Im stuck on the back one and looking for help- I have the drum and shoes removed- and if I grab the lugs I can wiggle the plate slightly from 12-6- it apears to be wiggling through the hub housing - which leads me to believe it is bad bearings.... :( - My haynes manual doenst make it seem nearly as bad as what has been said here - but they also talk about a self locking nut and 58ft lbs torque.... Am I just mixing things up? does this sound like a wheel bearing issue? - it definitely isnt a suspension issue... as I can see that it moves on either side of the hub- thanks in advance for the help! trying to get her completely together and ready for the autocross in just over a week-

Fixed one front wheel- hub nut was finger tight- half way through the other side-

Realized I forgot to check my wheel bearing when I out it up- so mounted the wheels back up and went around and checked all 4 corners.... Good news is I think my bearings are fine.... Bad news is I have 12-6 play in both front wheels and rear passenger.... Front wheels appear to have play when pulled from the top - Rear seems to be a bit of both push and pull... If you have any thought of where to start looking for play let me know please- time for me to start searching..,

I was using a power bleeder @ about 13 psi - didnt seem to want to clear the air out of the masters - so I tried the pump method in conjunction with the power method and that seemed to work well. was going to either put the pads in or reflush with ATE tonight but got home to late. My plan was to flush with ATE first and then do pads/shoes to avoid any possibility of contamination. Just need to be careful not to over flow the reservoir -

Haha thanks this is probably true! At this point I really am not going at it from a competive standpoint- I understand I will be up against more powerful cars, experienced drivers yada yada yada... and I am not at the point of swapping gears ect to increase performance- I am really just going at this as a way to have fun and safely push the limits of my car and my driving skills- im sure the competition will be there- who doesnt want to go faster then the other guy- its more just a place to hoon my car with a bunch of other people that want to do the same. really just looking at how to make the most of the day and have the most fun- on a set up note- battery is in the back already and the car does seem to handle quite neutrally- although i havent truely pushed her since i havent trusted the brakes or tires and really dont want to wrap her around a tree or worse hit someone else. End of the day she is a street car that can be raced- just stoked to go drive here how she was built and how I want to

Ive done some searching and havent found any threads dedicated to this- If you have been following my thread - http://community.ratsun.net/topic/46032-red-71-4dr-first-510-streetautocross/ - you'll see I have finally pulled the trigger on AutoX'ing the 510- getting pretty stoked for it, hoping to get her finished up this week so I don’t have to rush anything next week. I have signed up for Rookie school and the first no points race- so the 23 and 24th will be a full weekend of racing for me. Never done this before so looking for advice – I got some of the basics- Tire pressure higher then street – make sure there is nothing in the car- make sure everything is bolted down ect – anything else? What do you guys bring with you…? Also I need to get a helmet- anybody have any suggestions? Open face or closed? Bad news is I don’t have a trailer so I have to drive her there- that means I can’t easily just load tools and everything into the back of the truck- I can bring them with me, they will just have to be loaded in the Datsun and left out in the lot while I am racing. Good news is the venue is about 15 minutes from my house so I can drive her there and isn’t a huge deal if I run into a problem. Also I have no clue what class I fall into given the modifications to the car. I tried digging up a description of the classes but was unable to really come up with a good feeling for what class I would race in. Details on the car – ’71 510 4 Door- Fully gutted -4 point Cage- 5 Point Harnesses – L20b with Dual Weber DCOE40’s – 5 speed transmission, not sure what it came from… - Lowered with lowering springs /Bilstein Struts– big fat sway bars- Porterfield R4-S pads/shoes- Goodrich Stainless Steel Brake Lines- Fresh ATE Brake Fluid - Got some used Federal 595s with some camber wear on them, hoping to just get a season out of them – a bit worried about the exhaust as it seems to be fairly loud inside the car, not sure about outside the car as I have never heard it from that vantage point at high RPMs- basicly just a straight pipe to a flowmaster muffler, not sure which one. Thanks in advance! Devon

Brake system reblead- Motiv Power Bleeder definitely helped- although i did end up doing a mix between the power bleeder and the gheto 2x4 to hold the brake pedal down method- which made a big difference... but i also completely cleared out the system to install the brake lines so had to rebleed the two master cylinders as well. bench bleed might have been better but i didnt pull the masters. either way the pedal feels pretty good right now- next up - flush the system with ATE super Blue- then pad/shoes install porterfield R4-S - harness install and put the wheels back on and hoon her - first autox is coming up soon! Just another night working away in the garage - while progress is slower then it should be, i am just taking my time and trying not to mess anything up, and really enjoying working on her- exactly what i had hoped for when i bought her - Thanks again Brad ( Mr. Bohica )! - Haven't seen if youve been back on here but I hope you find yourself another Dime- and this one is in good hands

Alright update time- Drained my brake fluid the other day... was pretty nasty looking Then my tires came in a day early... and I got my brake parts and harnesses onetime like Christmas a few months late - Wahoo! Then after a bunch of PB Blaster soaking... a few swears... a few scares that I might strip a nut on the hard lines... a trip to Sears for some Flarenut wrenches (KEY!!! These Make a World of Difference)... a few more swears... a bit more PB Plaster... another scare that I was twisting the hard line... some more PB Blaster... And I have Stainless Steel Brake Lines! Havent rebleed the system yet, but i did hook up the power bleeder and it seemed to hold air pressure. Tires are off getting mounted so should have those back tomorrow. Next step is bleed the system with cheap napa fluid to get the air completely out- then rebleed it with ATE Super Blue. Once Bleed time to change the pads- installing Porterfield R4-S pads/shoes. Then the final step is the bolt in the new harnesses. Also realized I have a split half shaft boot... bummer... need to order up those parts and rebuild those soon- found a good write up on them though --- http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=22413 Pretty Stoked that I am finally getting some work done on the Dime thinking I might make up a stencil for some BRE Racing Stripes on the Fenders/Doors

Goodrich Stainless Steel Brake lines installed!

Got my 4 tires yesterday- just as described. He had them on their way in two days from payment. Fast and easy to deal with- ready to go attack some cones with them in a few weeks. Thanks again!

Drove her like I stole her today.... Then came home and put her up on jackstands to do brakes and tires this week Also signed up for autocross rookies school on march 23rd and the no points race on the 24th! Just need a helmet now

LOSINC - thanks for posting that - unfortunately doesnt look likes its going to help me at all - So here is a bump for a nice set of seats... looks you could get a pair new for $500 plus depending on shipping... and if the driver seat is like the passenger they are practically new - so killer deal here Good luck with the sale!

Any way you could give me a rough measurement of the front to back- both of the bottom and the back... Ive got limited space because of a roll cage and while my wrx seats are decently comfy they are very upright and if these are a bit thinner/shorter i might be able to mount em up a bit and recline em a hair... Also do they have a 5 point slot? Spent to much on my datsun already this month... but so tempting... and close...

PM Replied to-

First bit of Datsun Goodies - Pads and Harness's tomorrow and hopefully some Federal 595s later this week.

might be interested in a set if you can ship em - Ill shoot you a pm

Got my tach working... for the second time in two days... and got my speedo working- Wahoo currently all my gauges in the cluster work!!! although not all the back lights do...

Wahoo! Got a working tach! I know you all like pictures but there isnt much to take shots of- If anybody ends up stumbing on this or finds it in a search- Im running the MSD 6A and a stock 71' 4 wire tach (2 white looped wires - green 12v - black ground). Required the MSD 8920 Tach adapter set up in the current mode (not magnetic)- Ended up mounting the tach adapter on the outside of the driver footwell just behind the hood release- then ran all the wires up behind the dash- threaded the Black ground and the white tach output wire through the firewall. Connected the ground to a ground and the white to the tach output of the 6A. On the inside the purple wire off the adapter is unused. As for wiring up the red wire to the tach Im not sure which side it is on for the looped wires. The way my tach is wired up the two white looped wires connect to different color wires. One connects to a green/white wire and the other to a green/black wire. I ended up connecting the red wire to the black/green wire as it wasnt connected to anything else and when i tried the red to the white/green wire it didnt work. stuffed everything back into the rats nest and put it all back together. Tested it just starting it in the garage and all seems to be well. bounces a bit at idle but smoothed out during the revs- need to get out on the road and she how accurate it looks/sounds hopefully have my speedo cable tomorrow and ill get all 4 gauges working ! Parts for the brakes next week- Cheers

Been lurking away again for a little while here- but got the fire lit under my ass again and decided its time to show the 510 some love again- Just order some parts to help it STOP... Goodrich Stainless Steel Lines - ATE Super Blue Fluid - Porterfield R4-S Pads/Shoes- Also got a Speedo Cable and the MSD Adapter to hopefully get my tach working- oh and two new harnesses as well - now the passenger wont have to worry about smacking their face on the dash Now the waiting game... damn shipping from CA While I've got her up on stands going to do to prob change the diff and trans oil Autocross Rookie school is March 23rd so planning for that