spudly13

I plan on being somewhere around 2 inches lower final ride height.

Haha thanks guys, i had it all figured out about a week ago ;) Figured my old Suck through thread would have been the quickest way to get an answer! I ended up taking it apart and clocking the intake and exhaust.

Then i say do it. if you have the fab skill its really not that hard at all

So i was standing in the shop today, and i had to move my z around a bit to clean and stuff. but anyway i started thinking....(always ends badly)....I have a LT1 all rebuilt with fuel injection and what not. but i was thinking how cool would it be to run 2 sets of r1 carbs... Obviously the hardest part would be making the intake manifold, but what do you think id have to do for jetting? everyone runs em on 1.6 and 2.2 or 2.4 liters but what about a 5.7?? It wouldnt happen for quite sometime but hey any input would be great! and it really really would simplify my elctrical and tuning and wire harness, i hate that kinda stuff. (of course it would get twin turbos down he road, done nicer, cleaner and right, unlike the 510 lol)

This is my current static ride height (stupid ebay). And a shot of my semi cleaned engine bay at the old school reunion

I have tons of cool pics, if no one objects ill post them up, some datsuns, but a lot of cool old badass cars!

Thats what i would do if your on a budget, my l20 with a cam and header ans 38 sus, along with some other little things, was pretty quick Not to be a downer, but i bet you wont notice much of a difference from cold and exhaust, except itll be louder, im sure ill get hated on for this but l16s are slowwww, even if you build them there not fast meybe quick but not fast, especially if your on a budget, naturally aspirated that is, you add a supercharger or turbo or...both... you get a quick motor for pretty cheap. just my opinion

So far, boost lines to the diaphram vents, and float bowl vents, jets are drilled to 1.9mm, screws 3 turns out, and needles shimmed up a little. VERY IMPORTANT the plastic t's that pressure the bowls need to have zip ties put on either side of the t. otherwise boost pressure leaks out there, doesnt pressurize the bowls, and wont run under boost. simple as that. easy right? I have not put a boost sensitive regulator on yet, although i think im going to have to if i dont want it to run lean under boost.

see you guys there

too bad i wont be here! i would enter my car if i was

haha, i bet your sr is way faster though. Its werid how its spooling and boosting, becasue i was running this same turbo on my l20, totally different exhaust setup tho, and i couldnt even get 2 pounds out of that until like 3k in first gear.

Thinkin about putting a wide band in the mail, drilled my jets to 1.9, 3 turns out on the screws, and still have the little spacer deals. I smell fuel in the exhaust so thats good, but im going to take it easy until i can really see whats going on. And yeah thats an l16. im de-stroking an l20 and having the head fully worked, that will hopefully be in by the end of summer. (provided this motor makes it that long)

i step on the gas pedal and the exhaust flow spools the turbo and builds boost inside the intake and it reaches 8-10 pounds. If that was a serious how do you make it work type question, smaller turbo possibly?

coughing out the carbs? seemed to do it only when its cold. but does it really bad. running on boost. its crazy how fast it spools. i can boost 10 pounds in nuetral by 5k... im 4 turns out on my screws, they came with a little plastic spacer on the needles that i didnt see IN any pics? and i drilled my jets to 1.5mm becasue my local hardware store only cares standard and it was either 1.5mm or 1.9mm. but it needs lots more fuel. so ill be drilling those out tomorrow...I got frusterated with the tig, so i had my dad finish it up for me, cant see in the pics but you can tell the difference!

Figured id give a little update. got it runnin. forgot to hook up the waste gate and scarred the shit out of me when i watched the boost gauge jump up to 20 pounds. it needs more fuel, a lot more fuel. damn the turbos loud. itll boost 10 pounds in nuetral by 5k....and at an idle you can hear it spoolin away. its almost louder then the open downpipe As far as airbags go, i ordered my aero sport bags 14 days ago through ebay. never got sent. reported it and have to wait til the 14th to get my money back....So i can order them again... Oh well I was gunna go down to canby for the day saturday. but definately will not be making that drive on one spring and one canister. So ill settle for the old school reunion and make the next north enders ratsun meet!

Its funny you say that cause this is what ive been working on for the last couple weeks.

I guess my next question would be, if i get it to drain properly so that pressure is not building up in the housing, will it still work? or once oil gets past the seals once are they shot?

Hmmm okay well theres my problem! i guess i gotta try and re clock it again and get the center housing sitting better. I believe that the way i have it now is allowing for oil pressure to build up, not drain, and make its way past the seals instead. Edit; i assumed the first turbo i had was blown, bought a known good one and still doing the same thing. So again assuming its the oil not draining properly

QUESTION for anyone who knows anything about turbos. In its stock application the turbo im using had an oil feed line that was bolted diretly to the top of the housing. the drain was directly on the bottom. Can you rotate the turbo and lets say 90 degrees and have the feed on the said and the drain on the side?

QUESTION for anyone who knows anything about turbos. In its stock application the turbo im using had an oil feed line that was bolted diretly to the top of the housing. the drain was directly on the bottom. Can you rotate the turbo and lets say 90 degrees and have the feed on the said and the drain on the side?

Because high compression motors arent built for boost, it could last a long time, just throwin it out there, those were the first things to go on mine. my l20 made it 6 months and about 10k (with around 50k org) on 10 pounds and HARD drving before it went. Lol. its funny you say that, becasue im a teenager... with a welded dif...

Just weld it. poor mans lsd

Boost that shit. if you have a little fab skill and make all your own parts, you can boost your l16 for ohhhh i dunno around 400 bucks. However, on a stock motor with who knows how many miles... id only run like 7 psi or so, and your valve seals will go out failry quick.