spudly13

whoever said that 90 percent of all fuel/carb problems are electrical was a genious... After 30 minutes of messing around with the carbs and fuel i decided to start looking at electrical. first thing i checked was power to the coil. nothing. pull the coil out and hey whatd you know. broken wire! So overall easy fix.

just when i thought i had the motor dialed in it took a shit. cruised to smokey point, ran great, ate dinner, started cruisin back, hit the bad bump in the freeway right before arlington (anyone who drives this section of i5 should know the one) passed arlington and it started coughing as i tried going up the hill, couldnt accelerate went up the hill at 50 but still driveable. decided i didnt wanna break down on the freeway got off at kackman cruised the backroad that parralles the freeway, now im only able to roughly 35 mph and very low rpms before it cuts out. stop at the gas station look for any obvious problems. none. get on 532 headin up the hill really slow, coughin and sputterin as im trying to speed up. to many cars so i take the second right at the top of the hill. hit another bad bump and it dies. coast down the hill to a stop and wont start again. checked all my fuel connections, seems to be good. i did as much as a could with limited tools and a crappy flashlight, finally towed it home since it wasnt to far. So tomorrow i get to fix it. I have two thoughts, i somehow pinched a fuel line when i hit those bumps and my sway bar hit the ground each time, (i find it hard to believe the bumps were just a coincedince) Or two its something electrical. however everything else electrical works sooo i dunno. thoughts?

For a real update on the car, Im almost done with the door cards I put 175 mains in but havent run it yet because go figure, i burned up yet another starter I also replaced every single seal in the carbs to hopefully they stop the leaking i made a quick heat sheild that goes between the carbs and header Started taching together an exhaust

Thats where i left the car at 6am the night of the wreck That was after the first big pull, its hard to tell in the picture but that quarter panel was 8 inches inside of the trunk. The next big question i get really tired of answering is why did i strip the fenders, well for anyone whos ever owned a car with shitty body work that was previously done to it, the bondo was cracked all over the place, i had to beat the crap out of the fenders with a hammer and dolly, and over all they looked like shit. so instead of having cracked paint i just eliminated it. To answer the next most common question, why do i not paint them. Well the trunk is still crooked and needs to be professionally straightened, the front corner of the car needs to be cut out and replaced becasue its pounded in and i need a new fender. Theres so much rust in the rockers and quarters that was just covered with bondo (the crash busted it all out) that at this point the car needs a full rebuild, and if i ever get my Z done, it will get one. So hopefully i answered a few questions for some of you and some of the rest of you wont feel the need to ask in the future

I was going through my computer and came accross the pictures from when i wrecked, no ones every really seen them and people always ask so what the hell ill post them here. It might give some of you guys a better understanding of why my fenders are bare metal, and how much body work it actually took to get it to where it is now.

mmhmm, pretty sure youve seen it before, last post was feb25th, i think its pretty self explanatory how much work ive done on it recently... http://community.ratsun.net/topic/40767-ground-up-260z-build-v8-swap-lots-of-pics/

Well against my better judgement.. a couple friends talked me into entering in the slammed society showcase at formula drift this year... I have lots on my to do list before then... Door cards exhaust intercooler carpet installed correctly engine bay tuck finish the air ride install cleanly so it can be showed off lots of little things interior wise and of course a major detail. I just wish i could get it to go lower... those aerosport bags are nice, but currently even sitting on shortened struts, there limiting how low i can go. i really dont want to go to even shorter struts.. A while back i came accross a thread with all the different strut lengths from different cars, if anybody knows where that it please leave it here!

I was just curious how many people are gunna make it out to forumla drift at evergreen speedway this year. It was pretty badass last year when i went....

Stock 510 struts

Strut bar sold

Strut bars pending sale, long list of people who want it as well.

quadruple post? lol yeah i still have the struts

went from a 190 main to a 185. so im hoping a 180 will be just about perfect. may have to raise the needle a tiny bit at that point to

Yup

i dont know what most of this stuff is worth. so im pretty open to offers. all parts will be cleaned before sale. Im located in stanwood Wa, 360 631 3898.. fastest way to get ahold of me. I have some other stuff laying around. if you need something random shoot me a message, i might just have it! if im way off on pricing message me! Left and right front spindles with no strut tube. someone might be able to do something with them? 20$ for the pair? L16 2 barrel intake mani. theres a crack in it. see picture. 15$ Dual Su's ran them on both my l16 and 20. i dont know much about what they are but i have pics! worked great comes with intake, filters and all. part of the linkage is slightly bent but still works just fine, theyve been sitting for a bit but i would clean them up before sale. 220$?? Stock datsun 510 leather seats. The drivers seat is pretty torn up. the passenger is in a lot better shape with just one long tear in the bottom. ill even throw in the seat covers that came on them! haha sliders are still on them, thinking about saving those though... 120? 510 radiator, fins are all pretty straight, been repaired once, i dont believe it leaks. 40$ Radiator fan shroud 15$ Datsun OHC valve cover, i can strip the paint off 20$

managed to lean it out from 9 to 10 afrs under boost, pulls a lot harder, i want it to be at 11-12 and ill be happy. Im pretty surprised how well the setup works overall, much better then my l20 setup. i was going around a corner in 2nd gear this morning, pulled through the corner and broke loose, had to drift through the second half of it. Edit, im going to pick up some 180 mains today. should get me to my target afr

Well... i was taking them apart to swap jets and clean them out (i was worried they were plugged for some paranoied reason) and appearently when i put it back together i tightened the screw down to much and... snap! nothing a little jb weld couldnt fix lol

I was thinking the same thing.. I think someone said this, but couldnt timing/valve adjustment/and cam effect it vaccum?

Its an aftermarket lifer pump for a dodge cummins, my uncle worked for dynomite diesel for a few years and he had a bunch of them lying around

yeah thats highly possible, ill give it a shot, but if thats the case ill have to buy a new reg, this one is a dead head style with no return!

no, no return line..., meybe the regulator just wont work this pump?

hmm i say since you work at a machine shop.... just make a hub! no money necessary! Edit: cause that wheel is pretty damn sexy to just be sitting a box!

yeah