Stinky Posted November 17, 2023 Report Share Posted November 17, 2023 We just pulled the transmission out of my 2wd SWB 720. We tried to re-stab it, while we took off the exhaust, and couldn't get the transmission's shaft back in to the center of the clutch. When I installed this trans (the prior one was stuck in gear, years ago), I remember that I had the same difficulty. But, I don't remember how I solved the problem. The engine is loose, in that you can tilt it forward, and also back. Do I need to push it back, which would lower the center of the crank. The fingers on the clutch's diaphram they had pretty deep grooves on them. Could there be a cause that I should watch for? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 17, 2023 Report Share Posted November 17, 2023 You may want to replace the release bearing while the transmission is out. The release bearing pushes against the diaphragm fingers to actuate the clutch. Some marks are normal as it is metal to metal. It can be assumed the bearing may be the original and in any case they are extremely difficult to replace six months from now if they start making noise. A wiper blade would be easy to get at compared to removing the transmission. Again. I think the rear of the transmission has to go up, in and back then the front input spline lifted up and slid forward into the engine. The opposite of how it came out. Quote Link to comment
Stinky Posted November 17, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2023 WE had the trans up and had not dropped it out yet. We had pulled it back and tried to drop it, but it wouldn't come down as the exhaust was in the way. We tried to move it back in to the motor, and it wouldn't go. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 17, 2023 Report Share Posted November 17, 2023 I know, they are very difficult to fit. Exhaust and torsion bars. Turn on side so shifter doesn't hit the underside of the cab? Maybe it will slip farther back? Jack front of oil pan up? the rear of engine will rotate down. Quote Link to comment
Stinky Posted November 17, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2023 Ahhh yessss, turn on side. We hadn't thought of that. We'll try that. I was just looking at rockauto....a Pressure Plate, by itself, is about 50 bucks. A disk is 45. The whole darn kit is less than a 100....that is for a Sachs and a LUK. Why would anybody just change the Disk, or Plate? I agree w/you....the TO Bearing is a must change. I could hear mine when I put my foot on the clutch....it was just a whirrrrr. My trans is a junkyard unit....and I had to drive 225 miles to get it. But, after that, I found out that the 4wd units are pretty much interchangable. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 17, 2023 Report Share Posted November 17, 2023 LUK is South Korean and ok. 4X4 transmissions are wide ratio and identical otherwise but do not have a speedometer drive for the cable, they are driven from the transfer case. Also the later 720s had two different lengths 26" and 31.5". Quote Link to comment
Stinky Posted November 17, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2023 A LUK and a Sachs (German) are both $91.79. I'm leaning towards the Sachs. I'll check on the dif in S&H, https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4696314&cc=1210352&pt=1993&jsn=430 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1384810&cc=1210352&pt=1993&jsn=431 Quote Link to comment
Stinky Posted February 15 Author Report Share Posted February 15 Welllllll, I finally got my trans back fro the shop. It was $750.....500 labor. We just put it in and it went right in. We put the starter hole on the bottom.= (turned it on it's side) The hardest part of it was getting the tail up and getting in position. I ain't as strong as I used to be...except for my smell. Quote Link to comment
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