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Datsun 710 or 610 ?


FitzWorks

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Hi Guys, name is Anthony and I'm a new member here! I wanted to reach out to ask you guys your opinion on the 710 vs a 610. Someone I know has offered me a 710 project car that I was planning on making into a street/show car. I really like the way the way 710's look, if done right. I was chatting with a few guys, who have been in the Datsun game for a long time and also race Datsuns, about their experience with a 710. Couple of guys told me to not bother with a 710, that it is not worth putting all the money and time into one. That they are heavy and don't handle as well due to the solid rear axel and leaf springs. One suggested to look for a 610. For the guys that own and have driven 710's, what are your thoughts? I'm not looking to make a track car but want it to handle great. Should I wait and try to find a 610? Question though, where do you find a 610? I hardly ever see them up for sale. 

 

Thank you for your suggestions or thoughts! I appreciate it.

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The 610 has a nicer dash and interior than the 710 but that's about it. Same basic drive train but an independent rear suspension. My thoughts on the IRS is that for extreme racing, by the time you stiffen the springs, add a huge roll bar and shocks to firm it up and try to eliminate the bad things that IRS's have, like trailing throttle steer and camber issues when lowering, you may as well have a solid axle. For a street car the IRS might be a more comfortable feel but I don't know. As for the solid axle weighing more? Well the IRS is mounted to a sub frame with control arms attached.... I would be willing to bet the sub frame, axles, differential, lower control arms, mustache bar.... it's heavier than the 710's solid axle.

 

Opinions vary. If you like the looks of the 710 that's good enough reason to get one and build it your way... and you won't be in direct competition for body parts with your friends who have 610s. If street and show the IRS has little advantage over the solid axle other than looks.  

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Mike, thank you for your input and information. I really appreciate it. I am agreeing with you regarding the solid axel vs IRS. There are great cars out there with solid rear axels that handle great. Makes sense what you said. 

 

I wanted to ask what are the values on a 710? I know everything is going up these days but what would a basket case 710 that is not running but all parts are there, engine is out of it and is fairly solid. Will need a paint job too. 

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5 hours ago, Fitz Works said:

Mike, thank you for your input and information. I really appreciate it. I am agreeing with you regarding the solid axel vs IRS. There are great cars out there with solid rear axels that handle great. Makes sense what you said. 

 

I wanted to ask what are the values on a 710? I know everything is going up these days but what would a basket case 710 that is not running but all parts are there, engine is out of it and is fairly solid. Will need a paint job too. 

 

Well look at it this way. If the engine is out it's no different than one in a wrecking yard that's all in pieces. No way to test drive it and see what is not working. Basically a BIG unknown. Scrap price really. What does 2,750 pounds of scrap metal go for $350 ish???

 

So now you have to make a judgement call on how truthful and accurate the seller's info is. If it was running when parked, why was the engine taken out? How long sitting? More than 3 years the brakes are most likely seized and no good now. Are all the parts there or will you have it running but can't drive it until you find a 710 tension rod? Offer more than he will get for scrap (say $500) because not running and you have to get a flat bed and haul it out.. Leave your phone number and call back in three weeks. 

 

$500 for a good shell is great if you can rebuild the engine and replace the brakes, steering and tune up the suspension. Just remember that right now it's just inert scrap metal.

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