Ebay Carburetors for b210

[Retro Wave]

I was wondering if anyone had  any experience with these Ebay Carburetors that are for the A14 engines. They are pretty cheap, brand new and they have to be better than the old beatup hitachi that i have. The only thing that's missing is the electric choke on the side, I wonder if that would be a problem. they both look identical to each other but then again pictures can be deceiving. here are the ebay link. There are two different type #1238 and #1237. I haven't ask the seller yet on specs either. any insight on these

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1237-BRAND-NEW-CARBURETOR-A12-16010-H1602-DATSUN-SUNNY-B210-PULSAR-TRUCK-/121817682086?hash=item1c5ce650a6:g:Yj4AAOSw--1Wso82&vxp=mtr

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1238-BRAND-NEW-CARBURETOR-1972-1982-B210-210-310-ENGINE-A14-16010-W5600/121338824587?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D38530%26meid%3Ddf58e1fb6611412cb69a772890453b32%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D172382093758

[datzenmike]

When something is too good to believe... it usually is. Ask yourself and the seller... where was this made. It's definitely not an Hitach or made in Japani. New Hitachis are probably $600-$700

 

What's wrong with your Hitachi that it can't be re-built? 99% of carb problems are just dirt and needing adjustment/properly set up. 

[Retro Wave]

my carb has been played with so much that it DOES need a rebuild but don't know where to get a complete kit. As of now im pushing my car because the carby won't stay on when you change gears (automatic transmission)... it does stay on when park but shaking and sometimes idle is high and when you try to tune it down then it shakes worse. i don't have money for a weber 32/36 (but will get one in the future). i thought it was easier to replace it with something new ... it looks tempting but wanted to see if anyone went the cheap route OR had experimented on these....

 

here is my carb part number - its alittle faded but i think it says : scd306-1 6604ht    not too sure

[datzenmike]

For automatics you need good intake vacuum as it is under load even at stop lights. Before blaming the carb be sure the valve lash is set (I don't know the amount on the A series) be sure the points are gaped correctly then check the timing is correct. Be sure the isle mixture and idle speed is correct. Be sure to do the above in that order. If plugs rotor and wiring are in poor shape... replace them.

 

The engine needs to be running at optimal when idling in gear with an automatic. This is all cheaper than a new carb.

[Retro Wave]

 spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel pump, points, fuel filter are brand new. I did gap the points correctly and i think i timed it correctly (gonna need to check it again if i can get it running). haven't messed with the valve lash and i believe all the vacuums are all connected in there correct spots  - not that many. remember the car was played with before i got it so... original it is not.

 

I heard that these carbs have an electronic fuel shut off solenoid, i was thinking of that as well but maybe im wrong.    It was a mess when i bought her but I replaced alot of necessary things (besides the carb) and  she ran great for about 2 to 3 months after that something gave up or became out of synch or out of tune.

[datzenmike]

Try Arial font and size 14 for your posts.

 

 

If an intake valve is tight it won't close properly and intake vacuum will be lowered. You need good vacuum to draw gas in. A tight intake will leak combustion pressures... which is what keeps the engine spinning. When idling in drive the engine is always under load and needs to be running at it's best.

 

If timing is advanced the engine is fighting itself to run. If retarded then energy produced is wasted.

 

Take the EGR valve off and wire brush clean. Combustion deposits can prevent it closing properly at idle. If it's not fully closed it will leak exhaust into the intake and diffuse the gas and air mixture reducing power.

 

 

All the above cannot be fixed by replacing the carb.

[Retro Wave]

sorry about the font size i sometimes can't see too well and need the letters more bigger and bolder.

 

The valve lash is probably my problem but i can't mess with it now cause of my workshift. will have to do that on my day off when i can concentrate and not leave it half finished...its strange because it was running great for 2 to 4 months then this happens

 

As for reference what is the kit # for my specific carb? one of my needles has a slight bend on the tip - now that i notice

[datzenmike]

On your computer keyboard, depress the CTRL (control) key and hold while pressing the + key to make your reading easier on your monitor. CTRL and - will reduce the size.

 

Needle? SUs have needles, Hitachi carbs for B-210s don't. The idle mixture screw is pointed.