New build project

[suri_mike]

Greetings from Montana,

 

I have undertaken a new build project to restore a '79 620 pickup and have some questions that I hope the enthusiasts on this forum can shed some light / offer some insight on:

 

1) I'd like to get rid of all the emissions gear on the L20 - new intake / exhaust manifolds and carb. Dual Webers would be nice, but really more than than necessary.  Suggestions would be appreciated.

 

2) Links to parts?  need body bushings, and a lower right A-Piller/ rocker  (much rust - would be much easier to replace than metal work the patch)

 

3) I'll want to lower the suspension.  Any notions on how much drop can be had from relaxing the torsion rods? Better suggestion than the old school block between the spring and axle in the rear?

 

4) Brake and Clutch master Cyls. seem to be shot. Are complete replacements available anywhere, Seal and Cup kits?

 

5) Are front and rear window rubbers (holds in the glass) available anywhere?

 

6) Lastly, I need the tail light mounts.  my light assemblies are OK, but the mounts are too far gone.  any advice on these?

 

Thank you for any advice you can provide, and best wishes.  It's very cool to find such an enthusiastic community devoted to the DATSUN brand.

 

-mike

 

 

[datzenmike]

1) I'd like to get rid of all the emissions gear on the L20 - new intake / exhaust manifolds and carb. Dual Webers would be nice, but really more than than necessary.  Suggestions would be appreciated.

 

In all honesty a waste of your time and effort and in reality you are likely to cause problems. It does nothing for performance whatever but remove about twenty pounds. There is no 'better' intake for the L20B. The earlier L16/18 ones have smaller passages so it may look 'cleaner' but will be more restrictive. Modifying the stock one is an option but you must keep the PCV valve functional. The air pump you can just take the belt off or rip everything out and put pipe plugs in the exhaust port holes. As the EGR will (again) likely be removed, put a pipe plug in the manifold hole.

 

Header?? forget a header. They won't outperform the stock manifold on a stock engine. Many swap an earlier L16/18 manifold on but the down pipe does not match (the L20B one is larger) and the manifold has square ports.... your '79 has round head ports.

 

The charcoal canister is absolutely benign in operation. Intake air temperature regulator actually improves the running but if you get down near freezing it prevents carb icing. The '79 also has a fuel shut off during deceleration set up. Has no effect on running but does save gas.  

 

Carb. Your stock carb is the best all round carb for your truck. But if worn out get a new >$300 32/36 direct replacement weber from Redline. It has everything needed for the swap including the air filter. Remember what I said about carb icing... this carb won't have this unless you convert your old air filter over to fit it and a header won't have the warm air plumbing for this..

 

 

2) Links to parts?  need body bushings, and a lower right A-Piller/ rocker  (much rust - would be much easier to replace than metal work the patch)

 

Body parts. If you need a lot best to get a parts truck. Try the classifieds here.

 

 

 

3) I'll want to lower the suspension.  Any notions on how much drop can be had from relaxing the torsion rods? Better suggestion than the old school block between the spring and axle in the rear?

 

Use the search function. Type 'lowering a 620' in and start reading. It's probably the most documented thing done on a 521/620 or 720 truck. Your '79 has disc brakes so look for the D-21 Hardbody drop spindle info. A lowering block is the fastest easiest and cheapest way to lower. Lowering is precise, a 2" block lower exactly 2". A 'kit' usually includes everything. remove U bolts, slip in the block, tighten U bolts and... done. The alternative is removing the springs and having them de arched. Good luck getting them out. Another is replacing them with 720 4x4 springs. Good luck finding them, getting them both out and back on the 620 in Montana. Idaho is nearby, lots of 620 there. It is a good choice as the springs are also stiffer.... always good on a lowered vehicle.

 

 

4) Brake and Clutch master Cyls. seem to be shot. Are complete replacements available anywhere, Seal and Cup kits?

 

Try auto supply store or on line at Rock Auto/ NAPA etc.

 

 

5) Are front and rear window rubbers (holds in the glass) available anywhere?

 

Someone may know, otherwise there are some from overseas, but iffy quality.

 

 

 

6) Lastly, I need the tail light mounts.  my light assemblies are OK, but the mounts are too far gone.  any advice on these?

 

Again, parts truck or classifieds... http://community.ratsun.net/classifieds/category/9-body-and-interior/?sort_key=date_added&sort_order=desc Watch e Bay or craigslist

[suri_mike]

Thank you very much for the info.  

 

Re: exhaust manifold - mine has the air injection ports from the airpump. Which of course are rusted.  Are there (earlier?) ex. manifolds that would be sans the air injection?

 

Again, thanks for the info.

[hobospyder]

window seals check the ebay. i picked up all around weather seals for my truck and i remember seeing a kit for a king cab i almost bought as well

[hobospyder]

same with body panels. sometimes some pop up randomly