paint kits

[whisper3H]

I am looking for a relatively inexpensive paint kit for my 510, I already have a DA, sandpaper, and body filler (Dyna-Glass)

etc.. and im starting to do some body work to fill in the rusted out places.

 

my spray gun::

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=91009

Edited October 16, 2008 by whisper3H

[Pacific coast Datsun]

There is no "paint kit" per say. When the time comes go to your local paint supply store & they'll hook you up w/ everything you need. Ill add this..I've seen quarts of Dupli color paint @ Kragen [shucks]..all youll need to shoot that is recuder & then a few coats of clear as a topcoat [not sold @ Kragen]. On the rust..if the areas are bad the metal should be cut out & new fillers welded in.

[whisper3H]

never heard of "kragen", but i was looking at possibly http://www.kirkerautomotive.com/

 

or,

 

http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/

http://www.finishmaster.com/aboutUs.cfm

 

i will post some pics this weekend, if i get a chance to do some more body work on my car...

[521Lvr]

1st off. Based on your abilities. How good of a paint job do you expect?

 

 

If this is your first time. I would suggest Rustoleum. It is very durable, easy to work with and inexpensive. Also the color match from can to can is perfect. You will need acetone to thin it.

 

If you have some experiance pulling the trigger. I suggest a basic single stage enamal. Fairly easy to work with. You will need wet look hardner and enamal reducer. depending on the temps of the year you will need different speed reducer. Also runs are easier to get with this paint than above but it is thick and tough. So sanding runs a couple days later will fix them. Still fairly inexpensive.

 

Next. New cars have base/clear paint. A few coats of base color is laid down and goes on dryer like primer. Next a clear is laid down. It takes some experiance to get a nice finish with base/clear. Runs are easy to come by. Not inexpensive, and really not the correct paint for the age of our cars. Depending on the type, you will need a few different hardners and thinners.

 

The gun you have is really intended for base/clear. This paint is thin and needs the 1.4 tip your gun has. Basic enamals and single stage paints do very well coming from an oldskool syphen gun. {cup on the bottom} They typically have a 1.5-1.7 tip.

If you decide to use your gun with iether of the other paints you will need a larger tip. Or you will end up with alot of dry spray. hope some of this helps.

 

tc

[whisper3H]

i really dont want a rattle can paint job, or rustoleum, i was thinking a filler, or self-etching primer, but i cant decide weather i should go to bare metal. there is alot of rust that im sanding and spraying with that rust converter from autozone/wall-mart.

[510er]

and im starting to do some body work to fill in the rusted out places.

 

PLEASE!!! take it from someone whos main source of income is RUST REPAIR and loves 510's do not just sand down the rusted area and spray with the "rust stopper" and then fill it in with bondo! all that does is make more work for you or someone else later. I specialize in a certain kind of rust repair but its not really available to everyone. You need to eliminate the rust completely either cut it out and put in a patch panel or have someone like me hook it up for you.

there is a guy in victoria texas that uses the same system that i do and if you are close i recommend giving him a call if your serious about doing a quality paint job between now and when this car leaves your posses-ion

http://www.rustbusters.com/locations.html

[whisper3H]

yeah i have decided to weld in metal panels after peeling a chunk of my dyna-hair body filler from my quarter panel. so i will cut out the rusted areas that have holes in them, and i was planning on using bondo for small rust spots about the size of a dime