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z22e water ports for lz22


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Soo after looking at a couple lz22 builds, I noticed a lot of people are running the z22s block, and the water ports are different than my z22e. As I was comparing them to my head (w53), I noticed the head water ports ran parallel with the head and the z22e water ports are more perpendicular to the block. Forgive my horrible description, im posting this on my phone and posting pics from photobucket is damn near impossible.

 

So what im basically getting at is this; how much do I need to modify the water ports for the head and block to work without blowing a head gasket every week? Haha

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I drilled 7 holes in my Z22S  block (LZ23)....the '8th' hole was already in the block

9 in HG

P5070006.jpg

Those holes corresponded with the larger part of the teardrop in the L head coolant passages....which also positioned the holes in the deck a little farther apart from each other.....which in turn left a little more meat on either side..... relative to the cylinder walls and the outside of the block.

If that makes any sense......lol

 

 

 

P5090003.jpg

 

7 holes here

hg1-1.jpg

 

And 2 larger ones at the back

sh7.jpg

 

 

 

P5070007.jpg

 

 

 

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I did the same as above but my block was out of a 200sx which it looked like this.  I had Dave Rebello get all my parts, completely rebuild my head, and check everything.  He suggested since I was just using the engine as a DD that I could get away just drilling the holes in #3 as thats the one that gets the hottest.  I did it in all of them anyways.  So far truck runs nice a cool, even on hot days in traffic.

IMG_0706.jpg

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Same as sealik.  In the 200sx block you just have funky holes.  I just set the L20B gasket on the block and marked the holes, then drilled them out.  Pretty easy.  The shop vac trick really helps too!  For the large port at the end I just used a big bit.  Didn't make it an exact match.

Thats what my block looks like. I guess I have the 200sx block. Everytime I find a write up on what to do (like sealik), its with a different block. I need to know what I have to do for my exact block.

 

I thought I had some pictures but can't find them  :blush:

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But half of the holes on the head arent drilled. Wouldnt that create hot spots for the chambers?

 

Not all holes in the block match to the head. Nissan would have run these motors and found that it was running too cool on some combustion chambers and so would leave them closed and others open. The L series has the intake and exhaust on the left side so I would expect more cooling holes on that side to carry away heat from the intake ports. This is not a problem on the cross flow Z series head. I would try to make the Z block flow the same as if it was an L series block.  

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These are the water holes above cylinder number 3. I put a L20b headgasket above it to show where the holes "should" be and my head doesnt have half the holes. The left side holes are there and the right side are not. I want as much water flow as I can get since my car will be taking a beating over this summer for all the car shows I will be attending

 

20140325_075209_zps7fc08f49.jpg

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Thank you mike. That makes a whole shit ton of sense. Soo I should really just match the holes on my head to the block? Not soo much the headgasket to the block?

 

Ex freekin' zactly! You are making an L block out of a Z block. Doesn't matter what the block was ... it has to supply water to an L head and not all the holes in the gasket join a hole in the block to a hole the head. 

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good plan.

i run a 190* thermo w/a 3 core stock rad.

runs around 185* never overheated but does get warm in summer traffic.

Well I also do t want the motor running too cold either. Im running a 196 thermo with a koyorad radiator and a nice e fan. We shall see how it turns out.

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