EricJB Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 Those are some big damn jets for 40's. What size main venturi's do you have. If they have been changed, no chart is going to help you. Main venturi x 4 = main jet size. Main jet +40ish = air correction. Idle jet should be somewhere around 50. Make sure your fuel pump pressure is no more than 3psl. Also don't hook up the vac can on the dist. Set the timing at 36 to 38 total advance and it will idle wherever. Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted February 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 Vent....34 And explain the timing reccomendtion please Quote Link to comment
EricJB Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 Those carb probably came with 28's I have some 40 DCOE's with 34mm chokes I ran on a L20 on the street 135 mains 190 airs 50 idles The best way to set the timing is with a timing light with an advance feature. Set the light at 36 degrees, spin the motor up past full advance ( 3k should do ) and set the notch on the pulley at zero. If you don't have access to a advance timing light, measure the diameter of the pulley. Multiply that by 3.1416. Ten percent of that is roughly 36 degrees from the TDC notch on the pulley. So take some calipers and scratch the pulley that distance to the right of the TDC mark, and file a notch in the pulley. That should get you pretty damn close to where you want to be. 1 Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted February 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 That's the only timing light I use is a advance able if felt like a idiot never having used one before there so easy peasy........ Really 36 degrees huh ok Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 get this bich running? Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted February 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 he had to get to work so its back su'ed right now im compliing a list of jets to order..... are those emulsion tubes hard to locate.... sent u a pm about your manifold... Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 i think these guys carry some? http://www.ebay.com.au/usr/eurocarb_ltd http://www.ebay.com/usr/alfa1750 but i spent weeks searching for parts and barely got mine together and i think the emul. tubes are car/model specific with the dcom's where the dcoe's they mass produced for variety Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted February 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 yeah most the other jets listed are easily available the emulsion tubes like u said are kinda a little bit of a hens tooth...wanna have these as dialed as they can be onthebench before we swap them back on ..... after this we are gonna re establish the street bike carbs and get them working too on the blue car for now Quote Link to comment
EricJB Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 Try these guys. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=WEBERDCOEPJ I dont know why the emulsion tube would vary from the dcom and dcoe. They are the same for the idf/ ida as well. The difference with the tubes are the placement and quantity of the holes. They determine where the main circuit enrichment comes on and how it behaves. I have always prefered F7's in dcoe or idf/ida. I dont see f68 in any of my charts. Post up a pic of one. Dcom's have a different accelerator pump than a dcoe. Otherwise I think they are pretty close. Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted February 8, 2014 Report Share Posted February 8, 2014 for the weber enthusiasts a simple fully reversable trick in making these carburetors work on many different types of engines is to take a 2.7mm (or 2.5mm) long drill bit and drill right in the middle of the idle jets seats (obviously having unscrewed first the idle jets and their holders). this will provide the idle/progression circuit gasoline right from the float bowl. having done this fitting idle jets from the f14 or f17 series and f16,f34,f20,f17,f4 types of emulsion tubes. this action can be reversed by simply fitting a lead plug on the bottom of the idle jets' seats. this is how you get them to accept dcoe stuff .. Quote Link to comment
smoke Posted February 19, 2014 Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 Sorry if this was mentioned already, but you know these things are not crazy about anything over 2 psi of fuel pressure. I have seen guys fight them for days, drop the pressure and all was good. Oh, I mean....they are junk, sell them to me............cheap. Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted February 19, 2014 Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 are you talking about the DCOM's specifically? or the weber side draft in general? Quote Link to comment
smoke Posted February 19, 2014 Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 Side drafts, dcom and down draft from both Weber and Dellorto. It's a bit of a blanket statement due to the fact that I've seen guys with VWs run like 7 psi and had no trouble, but I have seen more guys over pressure them and have a real battle. They are so sensitive to to float height, I have changed the way they run entirely but just a slight tweak to the float tang. Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted February 19, 2014 Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 gooooo on... Quote Link to comment
smoke Posted February 19, 2014 Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 It's really case by case (float height). If I remember right, the start point is between 12 and 13mm from the gasket to the tip of the float. But, a little higher or lower can determine where the tip in of your main comes in. Sort of like a small adjustment of your e tubes. Also, it will effect idle rich or lean. Like if you keep going more and more lean on your idle jets, but then you run into a big stumble between the idle and main transition when you finally get your idle right. That usually can be fixed by lowering your float just a hair. With Webers and Dells, the float height has a bigger bearing on tuning than most carbs, as does fuel pressure. Which is a good thing once a guy gets the hang of them, they can be made to meter fuel about as precise as you're going to get with a carb. 1 Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted March 7, 2014 Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 so jrock how far did you look into the float ? because, i made a tiny adjustment allowing the float chamber to have more fuel and wow..... thing starts right up and idle's better than ever.. wheres before i would have to massage the pedal for about 5 mins to get it to idle somewhat manageable .... Quote Link to comment
smoke Posted March 7, 2014 Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 It's why I love the style of carbs so much, the smallest changes you make are many times very noticeable. I like noticeable, even if it's bad. Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted March 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 carbs are on bench haven't had anytime to with life bs and the bronco build ...... i know why your asking, i have your stuff all sitting there mocked up on the bench .,.....prolly be good to spend a few hours this weekend listening to the buzz and staring at the blue light .... afte we get some goon work done we will revisit these carbs .... Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted March 10, 2014 Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 lol, i know you have been dealing with some shit times lately, i understand :hug: . in my life when things are going good its great , but when times are tough its a shit storm that see's no blue skys on the horizon ... sure i would love to see my parts, but not at the expense of your mental health, you dont need another fly on the shit pile ;) any how i posted , because i did have a break through on my end after about a year of some what bad tuning, thought it would help flush the vile ^_^ Quote Link to comment
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