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lost in unfamiliar toilet ville...pleaze help


jrock4224

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C6C4915A-8612-4E3E-AD54-21C7EDD841AD_zps

 

 

Those are some big damn jets for 40's. What size main venturi's do you have. If they have been changed, no chart is going to help you.

 

Main venturi x 4 = main jet size. Main jet +40ish = air correction. Idle jet should be somewhere around 50. Make sure your fuel pump pressure is no more than 3psl. Also don't hook up the vac can on the dist. Set the timing at 36 to 38 total advance and it will idle wherever.  

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Those carb probably came with 28's I have some 40 DCOE's with 34mm chokes I ran on a L20 on the street

135 mains

190 airs

50 idles

 

The best way to set the timing is with a timing light with an advance feature. Set the light at 36 degrees, spin the motor up past full advance ( 3k should do ) and set the notch on the pulley at zero.

If you don't have access to a advance timing light, measure the diameter of the pulley. Multiply that by 3.1416. Ten percent of that is roughly 36 degrees from the TDC notch on the pulley.

So take some calipers and scratch the pulley that distance to the right of the TDC mark, and file a notch in the pulley. That should get you pretty damn close to where you want to be.

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yeah most the other jets listed are easily available the emulsion tubes like u said are kinda a little bit of a hens tooth...wanna have these as dialed as they can be onthebench before we swap them back on ..... after this we are gonna re establish the street bike carbs and get them working too on the blue car for now

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Try these guys.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=WEBERDCOEPJ

 

I dont know why the emulsion tube would vary from the dcom and dcoe. They are the same for the idf/ ida as well. The difference with the tubes are the placement and quantity of the holes. They determine where the main circuit enrichment comes on and how it behaves. I have always prefered F7's in dcoe or idf/ida.  I dont see f68 in any of my charts. Post up a pic of one. 

 

Dcom's have a different accelerator pump than a dcoe. Otherwise I think they are pretty close.

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for the weber enthusiasts a simple fully reversable trick in making 

these carburetors work on many different types of engines is to take

a 2.7mm (or 2.5mm) long drill bit and drill right in the middle of the idle jets seats 

(obviously having unscrewed first the idle jets and their holders).

this will provide the idle/progression circuit gasoline right from the float bowl.

having done this fitting idle jets from the f14 or f17 series and f16,f34,f20,f17,f4 types

of emulsion tubes.

this action can be reversed by simply fitting a lead plug on the bottom of the idle jets' seats.

 

 

this is how you get them to accept dcoe stuff ..

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  • 2 weeks later...

Side drafts, dcom and down draft from both Weber and Dellorto. It's a bit of a blanket statement due to the fact that I've seen guys with VWs run like 7 psi and had no trouble, but I have seen more guys over pressure them and have a real battle. They are so sensitive to to float height, I have changed the way they run entirely but just a slight tweak to the float tang.

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It's really case by case (float height). If I remember right, the start point is between 12 and 13mm from the gasket to the tip of the float. But, a little higher or lower can determine where the tip in of your main comes in. Sort of like a small adjustment of your e tubes. Also, it will effect idle rich or lean. Like if you keep going more and more lean on your idle jets, but then you run into a big stumble between the idle and main transition when you finally get your idle right. That usually can be fixed by lowering your float just a hair. With Webers and Dells, the float height has a bigger bearing on tuning than most carbs, as does fuel pressure. Which is a good thing once a guy gets the hang of them, they can be made to meter fuel about as precise as you're going to get with a carb.

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  • 3 weeks later...

so jrock how far did you look into the float ?

 

because, i made a tiny adjustment allowing the float chamber to have more fuel and wow..... thing starts right up and idle's better than ever..

 

wheres before i would have to massage the pedal for about 5 mins to get it to idle somewhat manageable .... 

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carbs are on bench haven't had anytime to with life bs and the bronco build ...... i know why your asking,  i have your stuff all sitting there mocked up on the bench .,.....prolly be good to spend a few hours this weekend listening to the buzz and staring at the blue light .... afte we get some goon work done we will revisit these carbs ....

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lol, i know you have been dealing with some shit times lately, i understand  :hug: .  in my life when things are going good its great , but when times are tough its a shit storm that see's no blue skys on the horizon ...

 

sure i would love to see my parts, but not at the expense of your mental health, you dont need another fly on the shit pile ;) 

 

 

any how i posted , because i did have a break through on my end after about a year of some what bad tuning, thought it would help flush the vile ^_^     

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