Jump to content

Shifter change.


Jason Wright

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 11
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Just get a T handle shift knob. Tell the truth I drove several new '70s muscle cars with them (Hurst Pistol-Grip and the T Handle) and you know, they look great and all but if serious about comfortable fast positive shifts, the BALL is the absolute best. Works like a ball joint in the palm of your hand.

 

If it has to say HURST on the side just weld one onto the 720 stem and cover with the dust boot. Otherwise swap a HURST handle or knob on.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

If you want to seriously shorten your throw on your truck, I offer a shortened shifter on my online store at www.datsunstore.com for 89.95. Go to the truck section and it should be in the interior section just after the shift knobs or you can use the hyperlink. http://www.datsunstore.com/shifters-shortened-throw-p-1790.html  The posted pic shows the difference between a cut tower and an original tower out of a z car. I can take 4 to 6 " off of the truck shifter and it will be just about perfect. For an additional charge I can heat up the tower and pull it closer to the driver so you won't have to reach as far for 3rd or 5th gear if you want. The threads are clocked on the stock shifters and I still use the top section with the threads and make sure that I weld them back on with the same clocking.

z man of washington

360-668-2979

Link to comment

If you want to seriously shorten your throw on your truck, I offer a shortened shifter on my online store at www.datsunstore.com for 89.95. Go to the truck section and it should be in the interior section just after the shift knobs or you can use the hyperlink. http://www.datsunstore.com/shifters-shortened-throw-p-1790.html  The posted pic shows the difference between a cut tower and an original tower out of a z car. I can take 4 to 6 " off of the truck shifter and it will be just about perfect. For an additional charge I can heat up the tower and pull it closer to the driver so you won't have to reach as far for 3rd or 5th gear if you want. The threads are clocked on the stock shifters and I still use the top section with the threads and make sure that I weld them back on with the same clocking.

z man of washington

360-668-2979

I've done the same to my 280zx back in the early 90's by cutting out a section and welding it back up, then I threw out the plastic bushing and filled the opening with aluminum and re drilled the hole to the same size as the pin to take out all of the play. This worked out we'll but the aluminum eventually wore out making the stick noisy. I recently did the same on my 720 but added in a double 90 section to bring the stick 3" closer to me and welded the threaded end back on. For the bushing on this one I used my tig and filled it in with silicon bronze then drilled and teamed the hole to the exact size of the pin. This is working out way better than the aluminum I used before and it shifts perfectly smooth with no slop or play. I also drilled the bottom hole as high up the stick as possible without it binding to shorten the throw a little more. Even with the 3" dog leg added into mine it all still fits under the factory boot so it can't be seen, but it definitely makes shifting to 1St, 3rd, and 5th much easier to reach.

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.