foxfan1992 Posted December 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2013 Okay so we have a friend coming over to give us a hand with the 26mm socket and possibly the broken bolts too. Also for the crank pulley bolt, is it a reverse-thread or standard? We just don't want to have a go at it only to tighten it up to the point we break it by mistake. Quote Link to comment
foxfan1992 Posted December 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2013 Well the truck put up a really good fight against us repairing it today. First we removed the oil pump and filter - not a big deal, but then we had to remove the starter motor and jam a screwdriver in the teeth to stop the flywheel from turning when we undid the crankshaft bolt and pulley. Fortunately this went without too many problems - the real problem was dropping the sump, we removed every screw from it but it wouldn't budge. In the end we had to use a couple of small wooden wedges and a hammer to pry it off the bottom. No damage to the oil pan gasket as a result, fortunately. The only thing that didn't put up a fight was the crankshaft sprocket, which should have according to the manual, but it slid right off. So now we're at the point where it's no longer dis-assembly, but reassembly. Thank goodness! As you can see, the wedge we made was insufficient to stop the tensioner from popping out slightly - though it was to the exact dimensions stated in the Haynes' Manual. Quote Link to comment
inzel Posted January 15, 2014 Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 hmmmmm, i feel like ive seen this before........ heres a link to but the wedge http://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-648831-Nissan-Timing-Holding/dp/B0002Q8TV4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1387400752&sr=8-1&keywords=nissan+timing+chain+wedge Does that wedge work for the 84 z24 motor as well? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 15, 2014 Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 The crank pulley bolt is regular threads. The wedge you made is good enough if driven in tight enough so the chain does not move. Haynes manuals are good. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 15, 2014 Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 58 ft lbs The old factory manuals say 54 ft lbs The Nissan competition manual says 56 ft lbs Yet I have written down years ago 58 ft lbs Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 Does that wedge work for the 84 z24 motor as well? im not sure Quote Link to comment
RidgeRunner Posted January 24, 2014 Report Share Posted January 24, 2014 Ah, welcome to my world. Head gasket popped on my '84 last fall. My head gasket set had the same mystery ring... I don't see where it goes. I didn't remove one, so I'll not put that one in. Also, I had the exact same trouble with the tensioner. I bought a wedge on ebay, but it turns up it's the shorter KA24 wedge (despite being billed as for "1980s Nissans"). I didn't catch on until I had the same problem at re-assembly time. It's been kind of sidelined for now, but hopefully I'll get back to it shortly. I need my truck back! http://community.ratsun.net/topic/58044-not-a-question-of-if-but-when-head-gasket-2-qs/ Quote Link to comment
RandyR Posted July 23, 2016 Report Share Posted July 23, 2016 Well today I replaced my HG on my 84 Z24, because I would occasionally smell coolant at startup, and it would "use" coolant at a very slow rate - otherwise the truck runs OK. Tore down to the HG and noticed no damage anywhere on the gasket, nor any signs of coolant seeping into any cylinders. Reassembled using Victor Reinz HG kit, torquing all bolts to 20; 40; 60 like I should. When I got it all back together, it started OK, but now I have coolant spewing from the exhaust. Can't figure out what I did wrong. Any advice?? This project took me all day today, and it's 102 and humid out there. No fun, Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 23, 2016 Report Share Posted July 23, 2016 Did you remove the intake to do this? Intake gasket may have been the problem. Did you find the two block dowels and keep them in place to line the head up? Quote Link to comment
RandyR Posted July 23, 2016 Report Share Posted July 23, 2016 Thanks for the reply. Yes and yes. I am quite certain I installed the new intake gasket with great care and tightened the bolts good. The amount of coolant coming through is quite a lot. Not a white cloud - just pure coolant flowing out of the exhaust. It sounds like there is a miss in 1 maybe 2 cylinders. (The cylinders that do fire wouldn't fire with that much coolant flowing through.) I pulled the E3 plug - wet. I could pull more, but maybe when the temp. is down into the 90s. Quote Link to comment
RandyR Posted July 23, 2016 Report Share Posted July 23, 2016 All plugs Cylinders 3 and 4 wet. All plugs in 1 and 2 dry. Quote Link to comment
RandyR Posted July 23, 2016 Report Share Posted July 23, 2016 I suspected maybe the intake gasket. Tore the intake back off and lo and behold, the gasket was bent down at the #4 intake runner. I hope that's all it is! Hard to believe that much coolant could blow through there, but we'll see. Now to find a parts store that stocks them. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 23, 2016 Report Share Posted July 23, 2016 e3 plugs??? Forget those. They are like fishing lures.... they catch more fishermen that fish. Get NGK BP6ES for the intake side and BPR5ES for the exhaust. This is what the factory put in there. Or you mean exhaust 3? :lol: 1 Quote Link to comment
RandyR Posted July 24, 2016 Report Share Posted July 24, 2016 Yeah, I meant Exhaust 3. Intake gasket to arrive tomorrow afternoon. We'll see. The NGK plugs are also on their way. Gonna limp along on the old ones for now. Quote Link to comment
RandyR Posted July 24, 2016 Report Share Posted July 24, 2016 Well the problem with the coolant spewing from the exhaust was indeed the intake manifold gasket. Got a new replacement, put it in and now the only thing flowing out of the exhaust is, well, exhaust. Tip to anyone replacing the head gasket: be careful not to kink or fold the intake gasket. You'll suck a lot of coolant thru the combustion chambers.... a LOT of coolant. I then replaced my chocolate milk with oil. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 24, 2016 Report Share Posted July 24, 2016 The exhaust is easy to get at so take it off but leave the intake on. If it needs head work it's easier to unbolt, if it is off. Otherwise I just leave the manifolds on the head and get help lifting it off. If you leave the exhaust on the EGR tube doesn't have to come off either. Anyway, easy fix and no harm done. Quote Link to comment
4x4Buttertruck1984 Posted November 19, 2016 Report Share Posted November 19, 2016 If the head gasket blows and you're "blown whitesweetsmoke" can you tighten the bolts and and at least remedy the problem? I;m in for a head gasket job on Mon $1,000 , after that i,ll be cranking on the bolts every 100,000. shout out to the Nissan truck lovers in the NW/Us/can,,,,,,,,,,,gonna dump.(snow]>!< Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 19, 2016 Report Share Posted November 19, 2016 It may stop if it hasn't widened the hole by driving on it for weeks. $1,000 for a head gasket change is over twice what it's worth so who ever is doing it is a crook. It's 4-5 hours at $100 an hour. Or do it yourself for $50 for the gasket. 2 Quote Link to comment
4x4Buttertruck1984 Posted November 19, 2016 Report Share Posted November 19, 2016 The 1000$ was a conservative estimate in case he"runs into"something. Ive known him for years and I'll keep track of hours though.his rate is 85$an hour. since the WHITE SMOKE I have not driven it.I have a york wrench and might try to tighten them 58ftpnds? I'm new to Nissans so I love your forums. Used to drive Toyota vans 80s. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 19, 2016 Report Share Posted November 19, 2016 Tighten on a cold engine. It might work. Loosen just one bolt at a time and tighten it, only then, move to the next bolt. Quote Link to comment
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