How to I.D. a 720's Year From Exterior?

[TheEddie]

I'm trying to I.D. a 720's model year by exterior cues; I'm can't get close enough (yet) to see the VIN.

 

The exterior emblems all read "Nissan" 720, not "Datsun".

The bed has the later smooth, convex body shape at the top, no cargo tiedowns with a crimped, single-wall top.

Taillights are vertical.

Tailgate exterior has small, embossed letters, "NISSAN"; I'm not aware of any decals, "Datsun by Nissan", etc.  In fact, not "Datsun" ID all--hood flat, painted, no black louvres, grill gone.

Front fender emblems are straight horizontal single rows, "NISSAN", not the red-and-blue diagonals I used to see once in a while. 

Regular Cab is definitely the longer, Mk. II version.  Ask me how I knows this. :bye:

Round dash dials.

 

All this together is screaming post-name change, later USA production, i.e. prolly '83.5-'86ish.

 

I'm assuming the tailgates with the large, embosses "NISSAN" lettering and the diagonal-ish fender emblems was '83, interim changeover model, yes?   I can't recall if the diagonal-fender/larger tailgate lettering had a crimped-top single-wall bed or not.

 

Which would make this particular truck an '84-'85-'86 model?  Am I close?  Can I get closer?  Can someone point me toward a thread or gallery which details all this? 

 

Eddie

 

 

 

[datzenmike]

If the outer bed sides are one piece, that is there is no horizontal seam and the upper edge of the bed does not have an outward facing lip but is rounded smoothly then it's an '85 or '86. Doors, hoods, fenders, tailgates are the same for '85-'86 and some of the other earlier years.

[TheEddie]

Coolness! :thumbup:

 

Thanx!

 

Eddie

[datzenmike]

Visually, that's about it. The build month and year are on the driver's door post. Anything after June is the next model year. Keep in mind that the beds can/could have been swapped

[TheEddie]

Visually, that's about it. The build month and year are on the driver's door post. Anything after June is the next model year. Keep in mind that the beds can/could have been swapped

Doubt it's been swapped--same who-cares patina'd sort-of sun-faded silver/blue used-to-be-metallic, featuring passengerside matching-bash back-cab/front-of-bed.  Trust me (now there's an interesting concept)--I learned about bed swapping:  http://community.ratsun.net/topic/58156-how-i-learned-bout-short-early-datsun-720-cabs/?do=findComment&comment=995306

 

 

 

'85 or '86 is good.

 

This particular aninal was last state-inspected in 2006, and has been sitting in a side-street since '07 (that I know about)--it's on my route to the park where I do my daily run at. 

 

Other than paperwork, what typical endemic mechanical problem do these years have? 

 

I've read about Z24 blocks cracking, and aluminum (one possibility) heads overheating ('nother possibility), especially down here in Texas.  You know--dude buys a cheap used truck, runs straight water in it, electrolyzes it, then overheats, yada, yada, etc.

 

I have '82 and '83-1st revision factory manuals; there were A LOT of emissions changes added in the later manual, and I can't see there being any less as time went on.  So add feedback carburetion/electric fuel pump probs...I can just imagine...

 

Eddie

[datzenmike]

Must be parked for a reason. Even with good antifreeze the z24s were known to blow the head gaskets from lack on proper maintenance. This is a good possibility. Problem is that sitting for 7 years, a water leak could have rusted the cylinders beyond running.

[TheEddie]

...which is pretty much why I'm going slow'n'steathy 'bout approaching the guy... :angel: ...I wants to line up my posssible costs, approach him one time, cash in hand to wave under his nose (an aroma I have a reeeel problem resisting), and tow his (former) problem into my garage, nyahhahahaha.  My wife's shaking her head...oh no, not again...

 

Eddie

[datzenmike]

If you cannot drive it then it's worth it's weight in scrap. Or what all the parts are worth minus your time and bother removing and selling them. Sorry this is the correct way to view this. Without driving it you cannot evaluate the suspension, brakes, engine performance, clutch, transmission, differential, electrical systems. What about those 7 year old tires?, E brake work, engine restart when warm, burn oil? charging system work? head gasket blown? hydraulic clutch work? lights and dash meters work? There is so much you don't know that could have problems. Is there even an ownership?

 

Find out what 1 1/2 tons of scrap metal car is worth and add a hundred dollars to that.

[TheEddie]

Your words are read and and heard and respected--thanx!

 

 

 

If you cannot drive it then it's worth it's weight in scrap. Or what all the parts are worth minus your time and bother removing and selling them. Sorry this is the correct way to view this.

 

Correct.  Old vehicles are worth way more vivisected, sold as parts, bits and pieces.  It's tough to do, psychically--sell off your rare vehicle, assembly-by-assembly, but the end moneyatary result sure beats somebody's cash offer of (say) $1,000 v. the $3,000 you got for the parts with a bit of effort.

 

And let us not forget the "turn in your scrap car for gummint bux and buy a NEW ONE"  drive of the last few years...pre-Y2K cars are gettin' scarce, y'know.

 

 

 

Without driving it you cannot evaluate the suspension, brakes, engine performance, clutch, transmission, differential, electrical systems. What about those 7 year old tires?, E brake work, engine restart when warm, burn oil? charging system work? head gasket blown? hydraulic clutch work? lights and dash meters work? There is so much you don't know that could have problems. Is there even an ownership?

 

OK.  We gots some problems.  I wasn't planning on paying a whole lotta money.  Say, a hunnert bux or so....that leaves quite a bit of maneuveuring room, wouldn't you say?  

 

 

 

Find out what 1 1/2 tons of scrap metal car is worth and add a hundred dollars to that.

 

 

I'm working that as we speak--I have a 1980 International Harvester Scout Turbodiesel-engine Nissan SD-33T.  Rusted out body, rusted out frame, endemic problem-cracked pistons.  Gotta quit somewhere; worth way more money in parts.

 

1984-'85 short-box reg. cab Ratsun P/U, sorta clean body, no rust, some dents.  $100.00?  $200.00 max.?  JDM engine--$1,200-1800?  Tranny-Gots that here (no comments).  Electrical?  Snicker.  Clutch plus parts?  Fair question, but parts are cheeeep.

 

(An aside)  Don't 84-85 trucks have the inproved "C" tranmissions?

 

Yep, I'm talkin' m'self into a "hole in the water" all right.  I'm so screwed but I'd look SO good... I can see the hotties, "Ooh look, there's Eddie in his cool 25-year-old furrin truck, we wanna have his....etc....

 

Eddie, The

 

 

[datzenmike]

Minimum it's worth what ever the owner will take for it, then there's the scrap weight, then possibly the parts you can sell off of it (but this is time consuming, shipping costs and your time... not really worth it unless you get it cheap, get what you  want off it and then get rid of the rest as a favor to others) then there's what the owner THINKS it';s worth... (usually a joke)