Center Link Hits Tranny with SR20 Swap

[Vorsach]

When I turn it scrapes, I was told you can cut it, flip it, re-weld it, and it won't touch with plenty of clearance.

 

So I was wondering if anyone knows how to do this, already has one that their willing to sell, or has a better solution because I'm not sure what to do...

[KyushaKai]

MADDAT does it professionally, but they're in Australia.  What is your mount set up?  If you're running a flipped x-member, engine mounts are supposed to give more clearance than 510 mounts.

[LB2]

I recurved my centerlink in my SR swap, it was easy. Made a jig to hold the end to end length then cut the ends off above the bend closer to the end. Then I beveled the cuts down to their centers at both ends, placed back in jig and welded it back together. Smoothened up the welds at the surfaces and took some tubing with an ID the same as the OD (or close to it) of the centerlink. Cut two lenghts of tubing to extend past the weld at each end about .625" 5/8" cut those pieces in half and welded them to the centerlink. This was 5 years ago and all is good.

[Icehouse]

I'm not a fan of cutting and welding steering components.  The old column shift auto cars have different steering arms which makes them hit the tranny worse than all the other cars.  On thing that we do is space the motor up slightly with 620 engine mounts.  Which I've come to find out there are mutiple thickens mounts.  You can also use steel shims too.  Then if you loosen the idler arm and steering box you'll notice quite a bit of slop in the mounting holes.  Pull then both the direction that gives you the most clearance.  With those two things combined it should only slightly rub at full lock.  

[Boaty]

FWIW, with my KA swap - the center link kisses the slave cylinder at full lock right. Just enough that it rubs, nothing that effects how the car drives. I don't really notice an effect on steering radius, so I'm not sure it kisses enough to make much of a difference. But my motor is also fairly high and forward. (McKinney Mounts). If the engine was 1/2" farther back, it wouldn't touch at all I don't think.

It contacts near the idler arm.

I'm also not a fan of cutting on anything steering related.

@IceHouse - I am actually going to try your little trick next time I'm under there - to see if the idler arm can move just a scoche. If so I might be able to get full clearance. I'll probably do the same when I put my other steering box in.. mine is rather sloppy! Thanks for the tip.

[LB2]

I can totally understand not being a fan of cutting and welding suspension components but as of yet with all the SR swaps performed in the last what 10 years? Not one report of a failed cut and rewelded centerlink or front crossmember. Now I've heard of failed lower control arms modified for lenghtening (camber) and moving forward (caster). You do it right!!! The first time and you shouldn't have a worry.

[Icehouse]

I can totally understand not being a fan of cutting and welding suspension components but as of yet with all the SR swaps performed in the last what 10 years? Not one report of a failed cut and rewelded centerlink or front crossmember. Now I've heard of failed lower control arms modified for lenghtening (camber) and moving forward (caster). You do it right!!! The first time and you shouldn't have a worry.

 

 

Very true but I've only seen maybe two flipped center links in any cars that drove to shows.  I have seen a million flipped crossmembers though.