Please help....my little F10

[ericsb210]

Working on a 78  F10 with an electronic ign.  The car started when I got it home but the idle ran crazy high. I checked for vacuum connections.

 

The second time I went to start it no love. I checked the plugs they were a bit wet and gap was out of adjustment. Gapped all the plugs and then checked air gap in the dist and adjusted accordingly.

 

Now It won't start! I only get spark after the ignition is shut off, It will crank with no spark and then when the ign is shut off spark and it acts as if it was about to start.

 

Coil is good, cap and rotor are good, spark plugs and wires are good.

 

Please help

[datzenmike]

Check for power on the + coil terminal while cranking.

 

If YES pull a plug and check for spark.

If NO check the ignition switch. Maybe plug is loose.

[ericsb210]

Thanks you for the help datzenmike. I think I found the problem, the pickup coil seams to be bad. I am going to change it out tomorrow.

[ericsb210]

Okay, still working on the F10. It only seams to get momentary ign power when the ign key is switched back to acc. On the negative side of coil (blue wire) i get 12 volts when ign is set to acc. Should i be?

[datzenmike]

Check for power on the + coil terminal while cranking.

 

If YES pull a plug and check for spark.

If NO check the ignition switch. Maybe plug is loose.

 

 

Get a meter or test lamp. Connect to the + terminal of the coil. Turn ignition switch to ON.. do you read 12 volts or so?

 

Crank motor, do you still have 12 volts while cranking?

 

If YES to both, pull a plug wire off, stick an old plug in the end and lay on a grounded surface. Crank the motor... do you see spark?

[ericsb210]

Yes, I do have 12+ volts when key is in run position and when cranking on the positive side of the coil (white/black wire).

 

I have no spark when cranking. I have tested this with the spark plug and a timing light. I only get a spark when the ign key is being returned to the acc position. I can verify this by the voltage I keep taking in the hands, ouch. I must be getting old and senile but I am really getting frustrated. 

 

I pulled the coil and tested it in my B210 and it functioned fine. I also replace the distributor and the ignition (the plug in unit behind the tumbler). The only item I have not messed with is the Ign module. Could the ign module cause this problem or is it more likely a short/ground issue?

[izzo]

idk about the f10, but on the 510 and some other models there are two wires. black with white, black with blue (i think). One is key on power, other is start power...  it goes to the positive of the coil. this way you have power when you have the key on, and in the start position.  it may even switch when the key is moved (IE, no on power when start power is going?).

 

have a picture of the area we can inspect? I have a wiring diagram I believe for your car if you need it.

[datzenmike]

Yes, I do have 12+ volts when key is in run position and when cranking on the positive side of the coil (white/black wire).

 

.

 

Check that the red and green wires are securely connected below. Dizzy case MUST be well grounded even if you have to run a wire to it.

[ericsb210]

The F10 is a bit different. It doesn't have the matchbox dist, it has the exact same system as the B210. The red and green wires feed to a junction box then from there into the wiring harness of which meet up with the ign module mounted next to the fuse box. i did check all of the connection's of the red and green wire. I also went through and cleaned all of the ground connections.

[datzenmike]

Absolutely, what was I thinking. All '78 had the remote igniter style for that year.

 

This one...

 

Check the air gap between rotor and stator... 0.008 to 0.016"

 

Never assume... take the cap off and crank the motor over.. does the rotor turn?