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1980 720 Radiator?


tablebeast

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The lip on my radiator's filler broke off, right where the cap tighens down to. It is the original radiator and is otherwise in great shape. SO, I have two questions.

 

1. Can this broken peice (I still have it) be braised back on, or do they replace the whole neck at repair shops?

 

2. Which other years besides 1980 are compatible with the 80? It seems liek it is the ONLY 720 with the L20B that is has a unique radiator. Will a 620 one work? 510? Other model? I know an 85 720 Rad DOESN'T work, but the 620 ones look pretty similar in pictures.

 

Thanks in advance for the help, this is the last thing I need to get my truck back on the road.

 

datsun72011_zpsf13929f8.jpg

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The earlier 620 rad will have the upper and lower hoses in the right places but I think the 720 L20B rad is thinner and wider. The Z22/24 rads have the inlet hose over on the right side so all you need is a couple of elbows and a short piece of 2"? pipe.

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2. Which other years besides 1980 are compatible with the 80? It seems liek it is the ONLY 720 with the L20B that is has a unique radiator. Will a 620 one work? 510? Other model? I know an 85 720 Rad DOESN'T work, but the 620 ones look pretty similar in pictures.

 

Thanks in advance for the help, this is the last thing I need to get my truck back on the road.

 

 

 

No clearance between the 85 rad and fan ???......clutch fan?

Mounting holes don't line up?

 

Here's an 'L20B'...with the Z22...Z24 rad

 

P1140023-1.jpg

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It'll fit. It may be slightly larger than the hole for the L20B rad is all. Look what Dougdid... two elbows and a joiner pipe, some hose clamps.

 

I will get some pictures tomorrow, but its not the hose thing I can just get some flexi hose for that. There is actually stuff in the way. The 80 is a lot more like the 620s than the later 720s. Now, if you know that an 85 radiator could fit in a 620 without major modifcation, then perhaps it will work. I hope it does and like I said I'll get pics.

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Yeah way cheaper. I've put top rad inlet pipes on before because someone pulled too hard on the hose taking it off. Heated it and softened the solder twisted off with a leather glove. Heated and wire brushed off all excess lead. Tinned both parts and assembled after making the pipe as close to round as possible. Made the fit as tight as possible with almost no gaps. Lay the rad face up and heated the seam with a propane torch, closely followed by wire solder. Still on a Toyota truck to this day AFAIK.

 

Rad cap openings were pretty standardized back then. Get a 'new' cap opening from an old rad and put on yours.

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