reese Posted October 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2013 They are nice but not with ZX brakes. I will definitely test fit tho! Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted October 7, 2013 Report Share Posted October 7, 2013 I'm biased. I like the zx wheels. Good all around size and fit. Inexpensive and actually very lightweight. And they look even better when the car is lowered! I think they will look great on your goon! I can't wait to see more. Quote Link to comment
reese Posted October 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2013 http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/aoitoriwagon/media/image_zpsf42aa7d9.jpg.html Got the back of the wagon lowered on 2" blocks today. Also added new KYB shocks and trimmed the bump stops. If you ever do this buy Just Joel's lowering blocks as no blocks fit the short spring mounts on the wagon. I knew this from last time and milled the corners to fit. I hope the front goes this smooth, I am starting on that tonight. ZX struts and brakes, new bushings etc. I am going for the ride height of Kelvins beautiful blue wagon. 1 Quote Link to comment
reese Posted October 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2013 After I drive it a little more I will retorque the u bolts, add locking nuts and trim the long ass U bolts! Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted October 7, 2013 Report Share Posted October 7, 2013 Looks good! Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted October 7, 2013 Report Share Posted October 7, 2013 thats a pile of parts!!! Quote Link to comment
reese Posted October 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 Today was good..the front came apart easy and quick. The ball joints were shot and since it's apart I ordered new ones as well. I hope to get it back on the ground later this week with the ZX struts and brakes and all new bushings. Then outta town for a few and back at it new week to do the Z master cylinder, grease up the steering joints, adjust steering box, change diff fluid, bleed clutch and check out the rest of the chassis. After everything is solid there it's on to cleaning up the interior and body. Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 Do what you will, but one thing they warned us from doing in class was "adjusting" the steering box. Most boxes aren't designed to be adjusted like most people think. You can fill it with oil, but they are actually supposed to be set once and left alone like rear differentials... When you adjust them, it wears them out quicker... Just throwing that out there... Quote Link to comment
reese Posted October 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 Good call, I meant checking the fluid. 1 Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 I ran across this in another Thread: The words of DatzenMike: (Figured I'd save him the trouble tomorrow) Well first the, 620 box has a steering ratio of 19 to 1 so if all the steering ball joints, 6? I think??, have a combined slop of just 1/8" there will be about almost 2.4" of play at the steering wheel end. Just saying, that if there is wear in the rest of the steering, adjusting the box won't help.Steering box wear tends to be in the straight ahead position with less to either side at full turn. If you should remove the wear clearance in the center the steering can be tight and jam when turning. Not good. A tight box will only accelerate other parts wear in the box.On the top of the 620 steering box is a filler plug, usually soft nylon. Beside it is a set screw with a lock nut. Hold the set screw with a screwdriver and loosen the lock nut several turns. Raise both wheels off the ground. With screwdriver turn set screw counter clockwise to reduce clearance between sector shaft and the worm assembly and LIGHTLY engage it. Don't force. Snug the lock nut while holding set screw in place. Turn steering wheel lock to lock looking for ANY snug or tight spots. If tight at any place in the turn, loosen the lock nut and turn the set screw clockwise slightly and test for tight spots again. Keep adjusting until steering wheel turns freely side to side through the full turn.Tighten the lock nut and test one last time. Top up box with GL-4 transmission oil, leave space at top. Quote Link to comment
reese Posted October 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 I am amazed at how tight the steering is after I got a close up look at all the steering links that are covered in crap with destroyed boots and after 44 years of service...someone at least put grease fittings on them and there was plenty of grease.. Quote Link to comment
reese Posted October 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 Today kicked my ass on the car. I decided to replace the ball joints since the boots were destroyed on my originals. Getting them off was a major chore and then I discovered I had the early, 11mm impossible to find size. After a few hours on the phone trying to find replacements I gave up and bought the larger 14mm size. The plan tomorrow is to enlarge the hole on my steering arms to fit the 14mm ball joints. After that installed the shaft collars and 510 springs and mounts on the ZX strut housings, pop in strut inserts and bolt it all together with new ZX rotors and calipers, new sway bar bushings, strut rod bushings with ex eng t/c kits and new tie rod ends. Time is running out... Quote Link to comment
reese Posted October 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2013 Got it all back together and on the ground. A few more things to finish up next week but it's mostly done. Lowered on 2" blocks in the back. Lowered 2.5" in the front on ZX strut housings, stock 510 springs shorted one coil, shaft collars under stock 510 spring mounts, new kyb struts and shocks, moog ball joints, moog sway bar bushings and end links, moog inner and outer tie rods, new ZX rotors and calipers, Z master cylinder, new rear diff fluid, clutch bled. It all went pretty good except the 68/69 small ball joints and tie rod ends. Next week I am going to get the front ride height dialed in and weld on the spring perches and start cleaning up the car on the inside. This has been a fun project and it will be a great daily driver pretty soon. More to come including pics.. 1 Quote Link to comment
reese Posted October 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2013 It's come a long way since here... Quote Link to comment
reese Posted October 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2013 I finished up the wagon suspension for the most part last week and have been driving it around with much improved results. It steers and stops great. In the next few weeks I will be welding on the springs mounts on, installing bump steer spacers and getting a real alignment. Next up is deep cleaning the inside and out. I have the missing lights, switches and other oem stuff to install and will be having a few minor dings removed and the paint polished up. Also checking out a few shops to have the seats recovered in oem style. Here are some pics of the freshened up front suspension and brakes. Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted October 17, 2013 Report Share Posted October 17, 2013 How did your balljoint issue get resolved? Quote Link to comment
reese Posted October 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2013 The 11mm original steering arms were opened up with a 7 degree reamer to fit the later 14mm ball joints. If you also have a 68/69 car like me the tie rod end threads and adjusting links are also smaller in diameter but the taper to the steering arms is the same. This is an easy fix, all you need to do is buy the Moog adjusting links and tie rod ends. All of these parts from Moog are made in Japan from the original oem producer 555, they made many of these parts 40+ years ago. 1 Quote Link to comment
reese Posted October 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2013 Here are some of the missing oem parts I have found for the wagon now. The 69 wagon has a completely different heater control valve and hazard switch than any other year or body style. Wtf! Just a few more things to wrap up. I am really glad I found a mostly complete and original car to start with. Going to keep it that way except the upgraded suspension, brakes and wheels. I also noticed this cool sticker on the door. It was serviced in Seattle in 1994 and had 54xxx miles, almost 20 years later only 62xxx miles. This place is still going. Salmon's Service Centers, Northgate Seattle, WA 98125 (206) 368-0595 Quote Link to comment
reese Posted October 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2013 I have been cleaning up the wagon since the mechanical side is pretty much done. I touched up all the paint and had a shop compound and polish the whole car. It looks great for 44 year old original paint. I cleaned up the interior a little also, it is also all original except the carpet. I will post more pics tonight and I will be at the Portland cars and coffee this Saturday morning at 8am, get your Ratsun down there. 1 Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted October 25, 2013 Report Share Posted October 25, 2013 Looks great! Quote Link to comment
reese Posted October 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2013 This is where I am at now...super stoked on the cleaning and minor updates on this low mile wagon. It runs and drives great now. 1 Quote Link to comment
reese Posted November 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2013 After not doing much to the wagon last month I got a few projects finished in the last few weeks. I got all the parts I needed to install the 2 missing side markers and get them wired and working. I also tracked down a set of Bluebird emblems and got those installed. Today I pulled the bumpers and took off the bumper guards and removed the emblem from the grill. Next up get the dome and cargo area lights working and find someone to make oem style seat covers for the front seats. Any suggestions for a good upholstery shop in the Portland area? Quote Link to comment
datrod Posted November 25, 2013 Report Share Posted November 25, 2013 Super nice wagon.!!! 1 Quote Link to comment
reese Posted May 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2014 Time for another long over due update. I have been cleaning and adjusting stuff ever spare minute I have on the wagon. It's a great driver now. I just installed T3 coil overs with 150lbs springs to finish up the front end, it's is all new now with new rotors, calipers, wheel bearings and Z master cylinder.. I had a new 2" exhaust tucked up to get a few more hps outta the stock L16. New clutch slave and master cylinder. I had the minor tears in the seats fixed and got a dash cover for the uncracked dash. All the original lights are installed and working. Still looking for a nice set of bumpers but it's a great car and I am stoked to have found it and keep it going. It just turned over 62k miles. See you all at Canby where you can see it in person. 2 Quote Link to comment
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