'73 620 engine bay electrical help

[KlassicMotion]

So, I'm working on electricals.( I don't have a wiring diagram yet). I decided to start in the engine bay, because under the dash.... not so pretty. I hate it when the electricals have been monkeyed with.

I've got four areas in question:

First is by the radiator support in front of the battery. I'm not sure why the wrapping is off, and I see two sets of wires that have recent electrical on them. Are they suppose to be joined as they are? Two into one, and 4 into one?

 

 

Second is the coil wire and points setup. Obviously someone disconnected the points from the harnes and ran a wire directly to the coil... What would normally be inbetween? or maybe they are bypassing the ballast resistor?
Also, there is a wire that connects to the green wire on the solenoid on the manifold. Is this correct? And what function does that soloenoid serve?

 

 

Next is the choke wire. There are two wires from the fire wall harness leading towards the carb. Do they have the choke hooked up the correct wire? And what is the other wire for?

 

 

 

Next is the positive battery cable. There is a hot lead off the cable that is spliced into a black wire that runs back up the harness. Then there is another black wire that runs back up the harness, but it is spliced to another black wire at the top of the harness?

 

 

And then, I noticed they had the vacuum advance hooked up wrong, so I'm also wondering if the fuel vapor valve system is hooked up properly? How should these hoses run?  The Fuel vapor valve (I forget the correct term at the momment): The bottom hose runs to the crank vent tube.  The top runs into the solenoid on the manifold, but it tees with a hose that goes to the B.C.D.D. on the side of the carb.  As I look at it, I'm thinking it must be wrong, but I'm not sure what's correct.

 

[flatcat19]

Who knows what someone else did. 

GL. I hate that shit.

 

I'm working through a nightmare myself. 

PO BOLTED, yes-nuts and bolts, a lot of electrical things back together. 

 

 

Olddatsuns.com will have the OE wiring diagrams for you to check out. 

Free and awesome!

[KlassicMotion]

OH yeah, I always forget about that site!  Thanks! 

 

Nuts and bolts... Sounds "Farmerized"!  Sadly I have seen that before...

[KlassicMotion]

So for the vacuum lines I used this chart:

 

http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun620/Datsun620Index/Engine%28L16%29/EmissionControlDevice/tabid/2381/Default.aspx

 

I love that website!!

 

http://www.carpartsmanual.com/

[banzai510(hainz)]

the wire from the coil(-side coil) to the points is kinda correct. Most people would NOT use a red wire. I would use a blk wire. but looking at the photo the red wire goes to the 2nd set of points. I would route it to the main set.

So I see that connector on there and the main points is the one nex to the motor. I would disconnect the 2nd set and move the wire to the main set thern readjust your timming(point gap set correctly) and see how this works

 

I think he simplified the wireing by getting rid of soem wires

 

Just by looking at this from afar to me its running off the 2nd set of points. Since that connecter only has one wire in it and lookes like its hooked up to the yellew to the 2nd set.

The bigger condensor is the main set of points. You could just route the red wire from the coil to the bigger condensor hook up and get ridd of plastic connector. I have run dual pints with the main set for a llong time. the dual points were for emmissions anyways, 3rd gear set up. switching I believe if you know where they at on this truck

 

 

the splices you see might be factory splices. if the is a cheap looking C clip under neath it holding the wires together that the factory. Just retape everything back up. Most elelctrical is fuse box or corrossion and the ends.

 

 

the fuel vent the booton goes to the crank case vent the top pf the valve went to the aircleaner port ,at least on 510s/521s. so I assume the same. bcdd goes to 12volts and if I remeber right there is a wire by the ballst but can verify. but seen it on a 521 once. Mine DONT have this

[KlassicMotion]

Just for the next person with my question, here is what the fuel vapor lines should look like:

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

your ballast resisitor is correct do not change it.

hope you read my above post carefully. esp on the points side of things.

[KlassicMotion]

your ballast resisitor is correct do not change it.

hope you read my above post carefully. esp on the points side of things.

 

Yeah, I did catch what you were saying.  I will look into that today, Thanks.

 

 

**Edit**

 

Actually though, just out of curiousity,  Why does it matter which points are used?

[KlassicMotion]

the splices you see might be factory splices. if the is a cheap looking C clip under neath it holding the wires together that the factory. Just retape everything back up. Most elelctrical is fuse box or corrossion and the ends.

 

 

Is this what your talking about?

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

yes the photo with the clips is correct nissan splicing. this is stock set up.

 

the points your using the 2nd set which is 5 degs 0ff I belive. so if your running only this sets which you are yourll have to time the motor for that However the condensor is a smaller type. I would think you would run the main set as it uses the bigger condensor. thus less like to get the popping of points (archin inside cap) point wear I think.

 

I would go with a single point dizzy 68-69 or sss and get a pertronix conversion(use stock coil and ballast) or get a matchbox and swap out the coil with a EI type coil.

[KlassicMotion]

yes the photo with the clips is correct nissan splicing. this is stock set up.

 

the points your using the 2nd set which is 5 degs 0ff I belive. so if your running only this sets which you are yourll have to time the motor for that However the condensor is a smaller type. I would think you would run the main set as it uses the bigger condensor. thus less like to get the popping of points (archin inside cap) point wear I think.

 

I would go with a single point dizzy 68-69 or sss and get a pertronix conversion(use stock coil and ballast) or get a matchbox and swap out the coil with a EI type coil.

 

Gotcha.

 

I did buy a Matchbox dizzy from the classified section.  I figured it would just make life easier.  It's suppose to ship by Saturday, so I will go ahead and buy the EI coil and get the truck wired for the new dizzy.

 

Thanks, now I just have to sort out the wires by the battery tray.