a14 dies when the clutch is put in

[LeviGideon]

So my friend (henryhustler) is having some issues with his lady's 210 goon. I went over and tried helping him fix it, but I can' figure it out.

 

A14, non-dogleg 5spd :thumbup:, stock hitachi

 

The idle is set and everything is smooth and strong there, but whenever you put the clutch when approaching a stop sign the car dies. It seems like it only happens when the car is in motion though. It idles fine at a stop. We thought it was a vacuum issue, but we've capped just about everything and nothing changed. The vacuum advance has a leak, and the choke pull-off is shot so those, and the lines that connect are capped for now.

 

Also, we can't figure out where the vacuum line from the dash pot was supposed to hook up to. The car recently had an emissions delete, so some things are a little out of wack.

[datzenmike]

The dash pot doesn't have a vacuum line to it I believe. It's a mechanical device that slows the sudden closing of the throttle.

 

On the 210 can you adjust the idle mixture? or is it sealed?

[LeviGideon]

It does have a mixture adjustment. We've tried leaning it out, making it richer, etc. and nothing has really changed. The part that I thought was the dash pot is actually called the throttle opener vacuum motor in this picture.

[henryhustler]

So I talked to a friend who gave me the idea of choking out the carb to cause a lot of vacume to blow out any crud. Blew out some black. Lots of white. But still dies. I've messed with the mixture and idle speed but for the life of me can't get it. And if I keep on the gas it won't die.

[datzenmike]

Poor manifold vacuum perhaps. Are the valves set? Timing ok?

 

Turn the idle speed up slightly.

[henryhustler]

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/30846-a14-will-rev-but-wont-drive/

 

 

 

my exact problem->

 

It dies when you come to a stop, and also after I rev it there's a pop that comes from the engine<-

 

my 210 starts every time, hooked it up to a vacuum gauge and its perfect. like everything seems to be in order with timing and i maxed out the idle screw and it just wont stay idling. but when im going under 10 mph and rev high enough there's a pop and it will idle.

[LenRobertson]

Does this carb also have a dashpot; looks similar to the throttle opener vacuum motor, only without a tube for vacuum hookup? It has a plunger out the bottom that touches somewhere on the throttle linkage , not hooked to the linkage, just touches. Reading my '77 F10 FSM, it says to check the dashpot by holding engine speed at 2000 RPM, then releasing the throttle, and engine speed should drop smoothly to 1000 RPM in 3 seconds. If the dashpot is missing or out of adjustment, I have no idea if the engine will die like you describe, but it is an easy thing to check.

 

I looked at the vacuum line hookup for the throttle opener vacuum motor, but it is complicated. It is supposed to hook to a "Throttle opener vacuum control valve" that is in turn hooked to a vacuum motor (maybe the one at the bottom of the air cleaner). I don't know the symptoms if the opener vacuum motor isn't hooked up. Maybe nothing; maybe some of your problem.

 

Len

[henryhustler]

Automatics have dashpots. Manuals have throttle opener vacuum motors. Atleast that's what my manual says

[LenRobertson]

Okay, I stumbled over this morning and looked at the carb on my F10, which is actually one I swapped on from a 310. So it may not be exactly the same as a 210 carb, but it may be close to the same. Anyway, it has three "round things" which I i.d. as choke pull off, throttle opener, and dashpot. I can't remember if the 310 I got this carb from was a manual tranny or an auto. The '77 FSM for the F10 shows a dashpot on the carb, and doesn't have any section for auto trans. I don't think an auto was ever available for an F10. I don't know about the 310.

 

LeviGideon - So just to satisfy my curiosity, does your carb have a dashpot? I have no idea if that is the cause of your problem, just thinking of possibilities. I can imagine a dashpot being removed as part of a de-smogging, since it just sits on the side of the carb and isn't hooked to anything by a linkage. If my F10 was roadworthy, I'd take off the dashpot just to see what happens without it. But I have a few hours more work before I can run it on the road.

 

Len

[LeviGideon]

Okay, I stumbled over this morning and looked at the carb on my F10, which is actually one I swapped on from a 310. So it may not be exactly the same as a 210 carb, but it may be close to the same. Anyway, it has three "round things" which I i.d. as choke pull off, throttle opener, and dashpot. I can't remember if the 310 I got this carb from was a manual tranny or an auto. The '77 FSM for the F10 shows a dashpot on the carb, and doesn't have any section for auto trans. I don't think an auto was ever available for an F10. I don't know about the 310.

 

LeviGideon - So just to satisfy my curiosity, does your carb have a dashpot? I have no idea if that is the cause of your problem, just thinking of possibilities. I can imagine a dashpot being removed as part of a de-smogging, since it just sits on the side of the carb and isn't hooked to anything by a linkage. If my F10 was roadworthy, I'd take off the dashpot just to see what happens without it. But I have a few hours more work before I can run it on the road.

 

Len

 

My car originally had a dashpot, back when it was an automatic. Now it does not, after I swapped another carb on from a manual b210. I didn't swap the carb because the dash pot, I just wanted to see how the b210 carb ran on my engine and ended up keeping it.

[LenRobertson]

I'm actually not in love with this dashpot theory. It just seems like a possibility. It occurs to me that my 200SX for nearly all the years I've driven it has had a similar problem - it would die coming down from higher speed to idle. For a long time I just kept the idle speed set really high. I recently fiddled with it more and have a decent idle speed, but it still wants to die out coming down to idle sometimes. I'm so used to heel & toeing the brake and the gas when slowing down I don't usually notice I have a problem anymore. So I'm probably not the best guy to help with your problem.

 

Checking for vacuum leaks by spraying carb cleaner around the carb base gasket and intake manifold gasket would be something to try. I'll keep thinking about this. Maybe someone else will post an answer while I'm thinking. It might be time to shop for a Weber carb.

 

Len

[datzenmike]

My '76 B-210 had a switch inside the speedometer that holds the BCDD open to reduce emissions on deceleration. (the BCDD opes a small inner air and fuel supply to reduce sudden vacuum and over rich incomplete combustion on deceleration) As your speed lowered to 10MPH while in gear, the switch opens and kills the BCDD and the engine would suddenly drop off to the normally set idle speed. It was noticeable and abrupt. There was no stalling at all.