210 60 series 5 speed - spread rings

[pixelsmithUSA]

Hi,

 

I have a 210 60 series gearbox. It's one of the cleanest I've ever seen (inside and out) but found one of the spread rings on the drain plug. I can statically shift through all the gears without any problem. I opened the case and determined it's from the reverse gear side of the synchronizer hub. Since the gearbox shifts normally through all gears, and observed that there's very little movement the spread ring creates against the shifting insert, I'm wondering if the spread ring function is designed to facilitate assembly or if it actually has a function once assembled?  Anybody have any feedback on this? Since it's for reverse, I'm inclined to not disassemble the gear set to replace it if it's not necessary.

 

Thanks

 

Gerard

[datzenmike]

A good question. Is it possible this fell out and was replaced and the old one never recovered till you found it? Got a picture of it?

[pixelsmithUSA]

Well, that's what I thought/hoped, but I can tell that all of the shifting inserts rebound when pushed down the little they move, except the ones for reverse gear. I can also tell the case has never been opened before... has the factory sealant on the case seams.

 

 

 

[Xnke]

Yes, you need that. It's designed to preload the synchro keys.

 

The key pushes on the synchro, starting the braking process, then the hub catches the teeth on the flank...the angled portion. This is IMPORTANT!

 

You need the two angled faces to be matched up pretty well when the synchro hub pushes on the brass ring's teeth, this minimizes wear and also maximizes the braking force...the pre-load springs make sure that the keys start the braking, to let the hub-teeth get into position to provide the big portion of the braking force. Without the preload springs, it will be VERY easy to push past the synchro ring and get it to crunch going into gear...if it's even possible at all.

[datzenmike]

It's beside the reverse gear but it's for the 5th gear.

[pixelsmithUSA]

Yes, you need that. It's designed to preload the synchro keys.

 

The key pushes on the synchro, starting the braking process, then the hub catches the teeth on the flank...the angled portion. This is IMPORTANT!

 

You need the two angled faces to be matched up pretty well when the synchro hub pushes on the brass ring's teeth, this minimizes wear and also maximizes the braking force...the pre-load springs make sure that the keys start the braking, to let the hub-teeth get into position to provide the big portion of the braking force. Without the preload springs, it will be VERY easy to push past the synchro ring and get it to crunch going into gear...if it's even possible at all.

Thanks, I appreciate the explanation. I'm fine with fixing it, I just didn't want to do it if it wasn't necessary. I've done a few of these, and this will be the easiest one yet.