sick620 Posted June 2, 2013 Report Share Posted June 2, 2013 I have a 78 dizzy and Im trying to wire it into my 76 620 with the original 78 box. the box has a clip connector but Im missing the connector, I followed these instructions... But I used little wire connectors off the terminals on the box. 2 wires went to coil. with round eye connectors. one on + and one on - 2 wires went to 2 distributor wires. 1 wire grounded to fire wall My coil is a 1.5 ohm (factory standard) and I still have balast resistor and everything stock hooked up. the timing seemed to line up same as the old distributor so I dont think timing is a problem, But I could be wrong. BUT now my truck wont start... did I do something wrong??? :( :( Do you think my box or dizzy might be bad? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 2, 2013 Report Share Posted June 2, 2013 You don't say if there is spark or not. Pull a plug wire off and stick a plug in it. Lay on a grounded surface and crank. Is there spark???? If YES... set to TDC compression on #1. Look at rotor, is it below the #1 plug wire on the cap above it. If NO... get a meter or test light and see if there is voltage on the coil + terminal when cranking. There should be 12 volts to the coil (and the box) in crank AND run positions of the ignition switch. Likely you only have power to the coil in the ON or RUN position. Quote Link to comment
LenRobertson Posted June 2, 2013 Report Share Posted June 2, 2013 So your '78 dizzy has the remote mounted electronic box, not the matchbox mounted on the side of the dizzy? I can help you with the box on the side, but I've never done one with the remote box. Len Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 2, 2013 Report Share Posted June 2, 2013 That diagram is correct for a '78 but you have 76 wiring. Your coil has two sources of power from the ignition switch. A BlackWhite stripe for the on or run position and a BlackRed stripe for start (cranking). Both these wires must be connected to the Black/White wire to the BOX so it is powered during cranking. The BlackWhite still has to go to the ballast resistor. That should do it. Quote Link to comment
LenRobertson Posted June 2, 2013 Report Share Posted June 2, 2013 I was looking for something else just now in my Bookmarks and found this troubleshooting page for the matchbox dizzy: http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Matchbox_Testing If you have the remote box things may be different enough to just be confusing. In which case, ignore the page. I hope you aren't getting the rainstorms today we are getting here in Lincoln County, not if you are working outside. It looks on the radar map like they are passing you by. That is good. You can stay dry and we get the rain over here for the wheat. Len Quote Link to comment
sick620 Posted June 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2013 datzen mike, can you explain that again a little different? you lost me! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 2, 2013 Report Share Posted June 2, 2013 The '78 is as shown with a Black/White wire from the ignition to the dizzy box and the coil. Your '76 will have two wires from the ignition. One goes to the coil to give full 12 volts while cranking (Black/Brown). The other (Black/White) goes to the ballast to drop the voltage when running. If you only have the Black/White connected to the box there will be no power in the start position. Quote Link to comment
LenRobertson Posted June 2, 2013 Report Share Posted June 2, 2013 I think datzenmike has given you what you need to know. But I found this post in the How-To section with a good diagram of the remote module wiring: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/17444-electronic-ignitions-for-l-motors-4-cyl/ Len Quote Link to comment
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