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KA24DE idle issues


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nano got the ka swap driving today. 

 

he had it idling on its own before he took it to get the exhaust done.

 

after the shop, now it wont idle on its own. it will start no problem, but just wont stay running.

 

he asked if i could post this up and ask about what it might be.

 

heres a video of what it does.

 

 

 

thanks for the help guys!

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Hmmm....check how the iacv is routed(after MAF In the intake tube, not hooked up to the valve cover vent). Try adjusting the idle at the iacv, should be a screw in the side of it, its located on the back side of the bottom of the intake manifold

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check the ECU for codes. There are usually instructions online, but the DE I'm pretty sure has the same instructions as my E. There's a little knob on the ECU that fits a flathead screwdriver. You can spin it left/right to adjust the idle speed (doesnt seem to do much of anything in my car) but you can also use it to pull trouble codes. 

 

turn the car on, engine off. then turn the knob all the way clockwise, it has an internal stop, be gentle. wait 2-3 seconds and turn it all the way counter clockwise. there should be a light near the knob (on the ECU) that will start blinking a bunch. its sorta like morse code. a certain # of blinks, a pause, more blinks. each group of blinks is a digit of the code, mine has a code 14 right now, it goes like this: .....blink......blink..blink..blink..blink..... aka 1 blink, pause, 4 blinks.

 

see what code it gives you. 55 means system okay

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plug it back in and check for codes. see if it gives you a 12 for the MAF. if it does I'd say your MAF has gone bad.

 

side note if the MAF is the culprit and it improves without the MAF it sounds like your ECU's long term fuel trim is doing a lot of work. you might want to leave it unplugged from the battery for a bit to reset it to work with a new/working MAF

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lol ecu is a 30 second check. it's meant to give you an idea before you go messing with adjusting screws that may be set perfectly fine...not saying the iacv or idle screws are not the issue. just sayin pulling codes is always a 30 second systems check. the ecu often knows what's wrong already...why go on a wild goose chase potentially mucking things up along the way when the ecu will tell you what you're looking for?

 

now if it says all systems good (55) then by all means start checking other places.

 

just my opinion

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