TENDRIL Posted April 11, 2013 Report Share Posted April 11, 2013 I have dual DCOM 40's , pretty much DCOEs with upgraded pump system.. Right now I have 138 mains with an F64 emulsion tube, 160 air corrector and 160 holder, 35 pump jets and 32mm venturi/choke im going to be ordering 50/ F8 's idle's i believe . so my question is: I cant find any info on the F64 tube now from what i have read, i think it would be really rich and and only really for high speed WOT?? has anybody heard of these numbers on the E-tube? and what are your ideas about the numbers also the choke was eliminated and it appears that im missing starter jets( which i shouldnt need unless i have a choke correct?) am i right or wrong .. should i look into the more common E-tubes? im just trying to get the right jets to get them started and running then fine tune after Weaker Normal Rich F3 , F1 , F7 , F5 ,F2-F4 ,F13 ,F8-F11-F14,F9 , F12 , F6 and do you think the above numbers are adequate to get initial start up? now before anyone post links to the threads about jetting-tuning dont bother ive read them. :geek: Oics! missing starte jets? choke/ cold start canceled the main diffarence between DCOE/DCOM and unknown screw/ valve deep in there the other carb has caps over that area it seems and test fitting for my DIY backing plate and air horn sizes Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted April 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2013 also there wont be a place for this water line to go to any more is it ok to put a bolt into it and cap it off? Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted April 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2013 so i know this isnt good but how bad would it be to run my carbs untill i can get a long enuf time to pull my head and get it ported to match? (preferably after canby) #1 #2 #3 #4 Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted April 11, 2013 Report Share Posted April 11, 2013 Stock jetting for DCOE is a sticky here ! Just get it to whatever is baseline spec for your motor.http://community.ratsun.net/topic/27094-weber-dcoe-stock-jetting-information/ tip;There is a shop in hayward called the buggy house, they carry weber jets if you need em locally. Lots of VW shops should carry em if you don't want to order online. What head are you running? Does it have water ports for the manifold? You may need to block these off/ freeze plug them to run the side draft mani. I have that line plugged on the water inlet on my motor and have no issues. Slight port deviation should not be a big problem, it won't be ideal but it should run fine. Somone correct me if I'm wrong... Quote Link to comment
Dirttrack510 Posted April 12, 2013 Report Share Posted April 12, 2013 WOW! Those carbs look great. I'm glad they went to you. It looks like you almost have em done. Nice work. I gotta admit... I'm a little bummed that I had to sell those. :( Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted April 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2013 thanks i have every thing except the idle jets and new linkage im going to be running a center pull cable set-up, ive got a air/fuel gauge coming going to run an O2 sensor . and i just built a backing plate/ support plate today Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted April 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2013 got throttle cable in today its a bit long :hmm: Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted April 13, 2013 Report Share Posted April 13, 2013 Lokar cables are cut-to-fit custom application. Of course its too long !!! On my DGV after cutting to fit... Make sure to solder the end of the inner cable to prevent it from coming apart! Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted April 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2013 lol yea i know . i got the 36" when i meant to get the 24" face palm* Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted April 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2013 how far down could i go to weld in an oxy. sensor bung but stay hot enuf to get the readings? Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted April 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2013 got some air horns today ran into a problem tho... my carbs weren't the slip in webers :confused: so i wnt to a buddy shop and had him machine them to fit dont think this was a bad idea since it didnt affect the choke inside just the outside Quote Link to comment
Ranman72 Posted April 18, 2013 Report Share Posted April 18, 2013 If your motor is close to stock the balance tubes in the cannon manifold should be ok If it is a built motor the balance tubes should be epoxy filled Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted April 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2013 well i was told by the PO that troy ermish rebuilt it, so i checked too see how big the cam is and it has a .280/.480 10* LC so abit bigger than stock i believe but not by alot, that shouldn't cause any issues with the balance tubes on the intake mani? and is it still a good idea to run the crankcase breather to the intake? if it will still be ok to run it im going to tie it in with my brake booster Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted April 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2013 fitting everything had to get creative with the linkage Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted April 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2013 so car starts and idles, but when i rev it up bluish smoke will come out exhaust and is back firing thru the carbs? on my fuel/ air gauge its around 13 .5 ? will running too rich make this happen? Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted April 24, 2013 Report Share Posted April 24, 2013 Mine idles at 12.2 AFR ... thats correct for a cammed carb motor from what I've read. Blue smoke = oil. What does the afr show when it backfires out the carb? Usually a lean condition. Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted April 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 okay so i think i know why it was putting out bluish smoke i had nowhere to put the crank case breather so i let it hang i noticed that it was dripping oil/vapor while running then i made a T connector for my crank case breather and brake booster hooked it up im thinking that there is oil still being pulled into the intake from the hose from when it was hanging and dripping, there is no one way valve inline or any thing so could this be why im getting bluish smoke ? also the motor has less than 40-50k from complete rebuild and the hardest ive driven it was to canby last year so i dont think its anything major :confused: Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted April 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 Mine idles at 12.2 AFR ... thats correct for a cammed carb motor from what I've read. Blue smoke = oil. What does the afr show when it backfires out the carb? Usually a lean condition. when i punch it its goes to about 14-15 but when i let off it jumps to about 17-19 now i have not balanced the carbs yet since i dont have a carb balance tool . also im not losing oil infact its at about the H on the dip stick would the oil being to high cause some burning issues? Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted April 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2013 any ideas on why one carb hisses evenly and the other has a pulsing hiss? Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted May 1, 2013 Report Share Posted May 1, 2013 Balance the carbs ? Some carbs just make strange noises- if its running right don't worry about it? Rich that up, 14 AFR is too lean @ WOT... Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted May 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2013 another thing if i put a hand over one of the carb horns circled in red engine starts to climb but if i cover one of the horns circled in blue engine dies....balance issue ? also the one circled in red is the carb that has a pulse hiss Quote Link to comment
Ranman72 Posted May 2, 2013 Report Share Posted May 2, 2013 usually covering any carb air intake and motor climbs is a vacuum leak sputtering and backfiring is most likely the carbs not being tuned they have to flow the same or they fight each other each side of each carb feeds one cylinder so if they are not matched it will run shitty and do nasty things like hiss and sputter also make sure your throttle cable doesn't rub on your brake lines it will take time but it will wear through it and you will have no brakes when you least expect it Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted May 2, 2013 Report Share Posted May 2, 2013 another thing if i put a hand over one of the carb horns circled in red engine starts to climb but if i cover one of the horns circled in blue engine dies....balance issue ? also the one circled in red is the carb that has a pulse hiss your hand is acting as a choke. Red ones too lean Blue ones slightly rich or just right. Revvs should dip slightly when choking the carbs. synch the air, then tune the mixture. change the screw until you can head the idle go up/down set it to 'lean best' on each barrel of the carbs. It will take a while if you're new to sidedrafts but you can at least get it set well enough to drive. Balance the airflow with a sync tool ... there is no way around it this NEEDS to be done. Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted May 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2013 ok guys so road tested her today so start up and warmed up: after running temp is achieved, it idles kind of rich 11. ish accel. almost perfect maybe a little rich 12-14 thru all gears WOT de-cell. really lean 19-20 in any gear... aslo after de-cell. to stop idle is really lean 17-19 cruising/ light throttle is lean 17-19 any ideas? Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted May 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2013 bizzzpity boomp really need ideas for jets so i can order and get them here before canby... Quote Link to comment
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