riot936 Posted March 23, 2013 Report Share Posted March 23, 2013 Ok truck was running a lil hot and I took the t stat out to see if that was the open. To no avail its something else. Truck has, -good rad -good hoses -t-stat removed -pulled cap while running and water is flowing -water pump not dripping -TURNED ON HEATER AND NO HEAT although engine did run a lil cooler when I did. -all hoses hooked up corectly -not "boiling over" or classic hissing or strong coolant smell -oil not milky and no water in cylinders. I have no clue whay else to check. Ive owned this truck a month now and havent even taken 10 miles from my house. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 23, 2013 Report Share Posted March 23, 2013 This is on the highway? stop and go and idling? both? Your gauge is lyin' to ya. I assume you have the stock gauge and not some.... 'thing' bought in a store. I findthat I run about 1/3 the way up the normal scale and never reaches half.. Quote Link to comment
riot936 Posted March 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2013 Correct factory gauge. Im thinkin the sender is wacko. Mainly highway. But I have not stopped and idled after driving. But when just sitting and idling before driving I havent seen it over 1/3 on the cool side of the gauge. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 23, 2013 Report Share Posted March 23, 2013 Warm it up and watch the lower rad hose while you rev it up to 3K. The bottom (suction side) might collapse and restrict flow on the highway. Retarded timing will also allow more heat out the exhaust port and it will be absorbed by the cooling system. It should be about 3 degrees BTDC. Carb running lean will also run hotter than normal. Pull some plugs and inspect them. If the porcelain tip is bright white this is likely the cause. It should be a light tan. Quote Link to comment
riot936 Posted March 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2013 I will check the plugs in the morning. I dont have a timing light anymore guess ill have to by one. I wouldnt think that the lower hose is collapsing because to my knowledge it has a spring inside of it Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 23, 2013 Report Share Posted March 23, 2013 I wouldnt think that the lower hose is collapsing because to my knowledge it has a spring inside of it Those are the best kind. :lol: Quote Link to comment
riot936 Posted March 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2013 Im assuming sarcasm haha ill check it and report back? Ibe been considering one of the 3 row radiators of ebay and have a buddy that ones a fab shop fab me some rad hoses out of stainless pipe so itll be now worriews after that. Quote Link to comment
riot936 Posted March 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2013 Ok so hose isnt collapaing, but i did order a prebent hose instead of a universal one to put on just for peace of mind. Just talked to the previous owner and he said he but im a radiator right before I got it. Could it be possible that he put the fan on backwards? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 24, 2013 Report Share Posted March 24, 2013 No but if it was a used junkyard rad it could be plugged or part plugged. Take cap off and drain slightly so you can see the vertical tubes. Do they have any scale on them??? If so it could have chunks caught down inside restricting flow.. I would remove, put the cap back on facing up. Fill with CLR to dissolve any hard water scale overnight and rinse out in the morning. Quote Link to comment
riot936 Posted March 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2013 Drained it.there was some scale so im CLR'N it now. Letting it sit from now till about 5:30 a.m. will be ok? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 25, 2013 Report Share Posted March 25, 2013 Should do it. It's not supposed to hurt copper pipes. And short of a re-core there's nothing to loose. Quote Link to comment
riot936 Posted March 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2013 Well $30 later and all night soaking CLR did nothing. Guess its off to the radiator shop to have it boiled. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 25, 2013 Report Share Posted March 25, 2013 Well I didn't expect it to cost that much... sorry. I guess we are all assuming that the gauge is right when really it's within it's run range, even if it does read a little higher than we're used to. Before spending more on it, get an infra red gun and shoot the thermostat housing. If it 180/190 it's fine and just a high reading. Quote Link to comment
riot936 Posted March 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2013 No worries man. I thouhht it would work too. I snag a snake camera from work and looked all insode that radiator and its pretty damn nasty in the some passages are almost clogged. I didnt think it was that bad by just looking down the neck. Its only $60 to habe it boiled and rodded so im dropping it off tomorrow. 60+30=$90 which if it wprks will save me over $100 on a new rad. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 26, 2013 Report Share Posted March 26, 2013 The CLR didn't work... full strength? Quote Link to comment
Llittle_Llama Posted March 26, 2013 Report Share Posted March 26, 2013 I've had bad results from radiator flush, the CLR is MUCH better. I would definately replace the t-stat though and not run without one. Quote Link to comment
riot936 Posted March 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2013 I need it as process of ellimation. The radiator is shot ordering a new aluminum 3 core tomorrow. Quote Link to comment
riot936 Posted March 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2013 http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=151007589577. This the right radiator? Just wana make sure before I order it. Quote Link to comment
riot936 Posted March 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2013 http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=151007589577&index=14&nav=WATCHING&nid=82484084931 Quote Link to comment
Llittle_Llama Posted March 28, 2013 Report Share Posted March 28, 2013 That seems $$$. Call summit with those demensions and see if they have something close to that with the inlet/outlet holes that might work better for much less. Quote Link to comment
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