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73 610 wagon front end rebuild??


Datsun DCX

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I'd like to do some work to the front suspension of my 73 610 wagon. Just get it back to stock really. It feels pretty worn.

 

What should be replaced? Are the parts the same as a 510? What are the large (like 3" diameter) bushings that are up front under the engine that attach to the suspension?

 

Thanks,Ron

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Greetings and welcome Ron!

 

Very nice 610!  I've had 2 of these; 1-1800 wagon and a 610 wagon, both the same color as yours!!  My second wagon that I turned into a delivery had a roof rack.  

 

I also had a 72-1/2 Datsun 1800 Coupe.

 

Anyway, I believe those 3" diameter bushings you are referring to are the strut rod/tension rod bushings.  The front end suspension is the same as the 510 but the rear end (specifically the rear springs) are different from what I can recollect from installing a Datsun Competition Suspension Kit on my coupe many years ago.  I'm sure the other brethren will respond in kind if I am incorrect.

 

If you plan on keeping the wagon, you might consider doing the shocks, ball joints, wheel bearings, brakes, even checking the play in the steering linkage. I believe you can adjust some play out of it.

 

I've never seen a motor mount break on any of my Datsuns but you might check your motor mounts just the same.  You might also consider the strut/shock springs since they are fatigued, if you're so inclined to want to address everything on the front suspension.  

 

Just a suggestion.  Again, I'm sure the brethren will also offer their advice.

 

How long have you owned the car Ron?  Also, what size wheel and tire combo are on the car?

 

Ernie

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Generally speaking sway bar bushings, mounts for the sway bar, lower control arm bushings, ball joints, tie-rods, shock inserts, can all be done for fairly cheap.

510 suspension is identical with the exception of the sway bar

And about the  tension control rod bushing... some people say will break if you use a poly-urethane bushing for it but Ive had no problems so far

More in depth upgrades would be going with adjustable lcas, tc rods, coilovers, camber plates. ( can be pricey )

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Avoid polly bushings. You may notice a difference if you race but too stiff for the street. Rubber grips both components and will twist slightly without shearing. Polly is so stiff one contact side must move and this leads to wear and squeaking. You will have a more comfortable ride with stock rubber bushings.

And about the  tension control rod bushing... some people say will break if you use a poly-urethane bushing for it but Ive had no problems so far


They can break and without warning. This would be catastrophic on the highway. The tension rod forms one side of a stable triangle with the body and the lower control arm (LCA) being the other two. It prevents the LCA from moving back toward the rear wheels when hitting bumps and any resistance. The tension rod has to be free to move up and down at the LCA end. The problem is that at the front it is held by very firm plastic instead of rubber that will give. Over time the tension rod is repeatedly bent back and forth and fails.

 

 

There is an easy fix for this by drilling holes in the polly which makes them more flexible.
 

 

TCpollybushingfix.png

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Thanks for the info. I was planning on urethane, but I'll go rubber for the tension rods.

 

How long have you owned the car Ron?  Also, what size wheel and tire combo are on the car?

 

Ernie

 

I've had the car since sept this year. Wheels in the pic are 15x5.5 with 205/50/15 but I've sold them since. Now has 14x6.5 6-hole slots. This pic is leaving JCCS this year. I met and talked with ZEROW that day. That's the wife driving! I was in my 280ZX Bluezie.

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