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quick compression question


AWSpoofwil

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Pounds per square inch?

 

Are you talking about a Compression Test reading? That number is meaningless. I've got different gauges, they read different amounts. What is important is: 1) The relative reading. All four cylinders should be within 15% of each other and 2) The relative Wet and Dry compression reading. It should be the same.

 

If you read the instructions that come with the Compression Test Gauge, it will say that absolute numbers are not to be relied on.

 

See Engine compression test How To

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The rings and valved don't seal perfectly, even less when worn.

 

The cylinder volume on an L20B is 487.75cc but not all of that volume is actually compressed. This is because the intake valve does not close until the piston has passed the BDC point by 52 degrees! Vertically, the piston is about 15% of the way up the cylinder. At cranking speeds, by the time the valve closes, about 73ccs escape back into the intake.

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Yes,  generally 175 and above is quite good.

150 still ok, will run great, good oil mileage

130 is getting worn

120 worn but if all cylinders even will run fine, probably burn a little oil

110 and under needs rebuild, but again if even will run smooth but be a bit tired.

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Mike, we've gone over this before. 150 psi can be VERY GOOD or BERY VAD. Read the instructions that come with your compression tester -- it's not the number, it is the variation.

 

A $200 calibrated Snap-On compression tester might read exactly, but most of us are using less expensive u-ncalibrated $25 compression testers.

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